My Epic Colombian Adventure (Group — Part 1)
To listen to my thoughts on this trip, visit my Kickin’ it with Daree podcast (go to timestamp 6:16) or use whichever app you like you listen to podcasts.
I’ve had Colombia on my vacation destination list for a few years, and finally made it happen in 2022! I started in a group trip with El Camino Travel during my birthday week, and then stayed for an additional 3 weeks. Part 1 covers week 1 in Colombia, and Part 2 covers the rest.
Since I scheduled myself to be in Colombia for almost a month, I had time to visit multiple cities. While I didn’t get to every Colombian city I’m interested in, I visited Cartegena, Guatapé, Palenque, Barranquilla and Medellín. (I spent the majority of time in Cartegena, and there’s a big clue about why in the Day 2 recap.)
Day 1: Arrival and exploration
I left my house at 3 am to catch a 6 am flight to Miami. Then I connected to my final flight to Cartagena and arrived after 1 pm.
I got through immigration without a problem, although they didn’t acknowledge my Global Entry card, which is supposed to be valid in Colombia. (Maybe it’s only used in the capital, Bogotá).
There was a long wait for the escort, but I found a couple of sisters on the trip who were also waiting outside. (We all connected via WhatsApp a few days earlier.)
I had planned to take a nap when I got to the hostel, but instead, I went with my roommate (I’ll call her “Roz”) and a few others to get a real lunch. Later on, we went to a little bar for drinks, and then our host “Antonio” (not his real name) led us to Carmen 23 for dinner.
While we were at dinner, I saw a popular YouTuber named Shannon Boodram (known as @ShanBoody on YouTube) and her husband sit at a table next to us, and I took the opportunity to introduce myself. I think they were surprised to meet a subscriber in Cartagena from the States, but they were cool. (I didn’t get a picture but it’s really because my hair was super straight and I was very sticky from the humidity all day so I did wasn’t feeling my best, but I’m sure everybody was sticky! What were the chances?) I met someone else from the States a few days later, but you’ll have to wait for it! 🙂
Day 2: Salsa dancing
We had a free morning to explore the neighborhood, and in the afternoon, we gathered at Antonio’s friends’ home and private restaurant (no longer open to the public). The spread they laid out for us was incredible, with more delicious food than we could ever finish. We could tell it was made with a lot of love and care.
Afterward, we had a brief break before going salsa dancing at 4 different locations. Our salsa instructor Christopher and his partner led us. (If you read my Cuba blog or know me personally, then you know I LOVE dancing.)
At a club, after we all danced together, we took a break, and then Christopher grabbed me to dance solo. After that, our driver, Juan (not his real name) complimented me, a moment later, he was swinging me all around that floor even more so than Christopher. Afterward, I looked over and the whole group started cheering and clapping for us.
At the next location, which was an open-air bar, I was asked to dance by an older gentleman who had been watching me nearby. At one point, he warned me about having my cell phone in my back pocket (I have a mini iPhone that fits in any pocket really well because it’s so small). I couldn’t understand his fast Spanish, but Juan stood there and talked to him. At that moment, I sensed something about Juan — he seemed to have this quiet strength to him that was really appealing. I don’t know exactly what he said to the gentleman, but I imagine he was telling him to chill.
When we left to get back on the bus, I asked our photographer to take a picture of me and Juan. Then we went to Castillo de San Felipe for one last group photo. Once we disbursed to get back on the bus, Juan tried to ask me for another photo (he doesn’t speak English), and he framed it up nicely with the castle behind us. It looks like the perfect couple shot. Then he asked if we could connect on WhatsApp, and it was only then that I realized that he liked me. I couldn’t figure out how to add myself to his WhatsApp, so I entered my phone number in his Contacts (but without the country code, since I never do and didn’t realize I should).
Juan dropped us off at the hostel and said something to me that I didn’t understand. We all went to our rooms for a moment, and then walked to have dinner at a restaurant nearby. What I didn’t know is that Juan came back to the hostel looking for me while we were out. I didn’t hear from him again until we left Cartegena.
Day 3: Weaving, drumming & street food
Hat and bracelet weaving
We were originally scheduled to get into some volcanic mud and a lagoon, but for some reason we couldn’t, and I’m glad, because I didn’t want to ruin my hair and have to wash it so early in the trip. Instead, we visited a home where a family makes hats and jewelry, and showed us how to weave. (Many in the group commented that this experience should be a permanent part of the itinerary instead of a backup activity.)
Drums and rhythms
Next, we got some Afro-Colombian culture with La Boquilla. We each sat with a drum and learned how to make different sounds with the drums using mapale and cumbia rhythms, depending on which part of your hands you use to hit the drum, and which part of the drum you beat. I loved the energy of the dancers and even noticed some moves we do with Afrobeats in Zumba class! 😀
Street food in Getsemani
We returned to the hostel for an hour before meeting with our street food tour guide Catalina. She’s a native of the city, but also is pursuing her Ph.D in the States. Catalina took us through the Walled City and the Getsemani neighborhood, describing the history of the city and the food there. We had different kinds of arepas, salted mango slices, and many other foods that often included cheese.
Day 4: Islas de Rosario
Our last day together in Cartegena started early as we headed to a very small island 45 minutes away called Islas de Rosario. A woman that was not part of our group sat next to me on the boat on our way there, and we have the same birthday (which was the next day)! She was visiting Cartegena with her husband, and visited many European countries (I’ve never been to Europe). We had a great conversation and exchanged numbers before we left, planning to be travel buddies.
Our group spent the next several hours in cabanas, drinking and chilling in the water. Again, I wasn’t getting my hair wet so I didn’t try to swim, but it was fun and relaxing like nothing I’d ever done before. It was also a great opportunity for us to get to know each other better, and we bonded. It was such a wonderful group of women to experience this culture with.
Day 5 : My birthday and arrival in Medellín
This day was not only birthday, but also the earliest we all had to get up and leave: 6:30 am! Our flight was at 8 am, and only 1 hour to fly from Cartegena to Medellín, so we had to kill time until we could check in to our hotel at 3 pm.
On the flight, an attendant announced that it was my birthday, and everyone clapped. I couldn’t understand anything they said except my name, but I appreciated that early acknowledgment! And no one believed me when I told them my age. 🙂
I can’t tell you how excited I was to see the building and skyline in Medellín. I’d only ever seen things in vlogs, and now it was real!
Our first stop was to drop off our luggage at the Diez Hotel in the El Poblado neighborhood. We were within walking distance of countless restaurants and shops, so we had breakfast at Cafe Perigamo. Antonio surprised me there with a huge piece of cake! I forget what it’s called, and I could only eat a little, but I appreciated it so much.
Next, we did some walking and stopped at a bar for drinks. Roz got mine as a gift. (Never mind that it was only around noon.) My daughter called me so I stepped away for a bit, and when I came back, there was another birthday dessert waiting for me.
I left them there to get a massage at the hotel, thinking it was a great way to spend some more time before checking in. I was right. My hot stone massage was only $180,000 pesos ($37 USD at the time). While I was waiting to start, I met an expat named Philippe who was waiting for his girlfriend there. He alternates living in the States and Medellín for 6 months each. He speaks 4 languages and gave me a lot of tips about Colombia and the digital nomad Visa, which he had just obtained.
A few minutes after I finished the massage and got into the room, we got a phone call. Roz answered and was asked if I was there. Moments later, the same manager that I spoke with at the spa was there with a birthday treat. So sweet!
We had dinner that evening at Don Diablo. Since I couldn’t finish my meal, and it was pouring rain when we left, I left the box with the food at the bus stop for someone in need.
It wasn’t easy to get a reservation in Poblado, so if there’s a restaurant you really want to go to, I recommend reservations in advance!
Day 6: Thanksgiving at Comuna 13
Although my birthday was the day before, and Colombia doesn’t celebrate Thanksgiving, this is the day I was most excited about because Comuna 13 was the site I wanted to visit most of all in Medellín.
Our guide Ana grew up in Comuna 13, as did our secondary guide Jason. They’re both in their 30s and talked about what it was like for them in those early years with the crime in the 90s, Pablo Escobar, etc.
We went to a museum, took the metro to Comuna 13 (after riding cable cars, and walked around non-touristy parts before ending in the tourist section.
We had dinner that night at Rito & Monteo and celebrated another group member’s birthday.
Day 7: El Peñol in Guatapé
We spent the day at a spectacular lake house next to El Peñol in Guatapé.
It was like a dream. It had breathtaking views, hammocks, a pool and hot tub, and several bedrooms.
Our meal was a Colombian barbecue catered and was epic. I loved the meat, but my favorite thing was the plantains covered with something like guava jam and sour cream.
In the afternoon, I got my first WhatsApp message from Juan. He hadn’t forgotten about me after all! (I’ll say more about this later.)
Our group had all day to continue bonding. ❤ The only thing I’d change about this day is being able to stay overnight (we left around 6 pm).
Day 8: Coffee farm and farewell dinner
Corazón de León
Our last day together as a group was spent at the Corazón de León coffee farm and Urbania coffee shop in Medellín. Our guide was an 18-year-old student who spoke English very well. I opted to wear boots they offered since some of the grounds (no pun intended) were very muddy and slippery.
Although I was excited to have authentic Colombian coffee, I’m a coffee drinker who just wants a little coffee in my milk, :) so I didn’t drink all of this tiny cup of coffee.
At Urbania, the owner showed us each step of how he makes coffee, the processing of the beans, and different ways to taste the flavors and assess your palate.
When the tour was over, it was after 2 pm and I was starving. So I went to Planeta Wings which was just 2 blocks from the hotel, and then chilled in my room until it was dinnertime.
Juan and I messaged each other that afternoon and started conversing daily. He made it clear that he wanted me to come back to Cartegena and spend some time with him.
Farewell dinner
Most of the group dressed fancy for our farewell dinner, but I didn’t change. It was the coolest night I’ve experienced in Colombia, probably 55 or 60 degrees F at most.
As each course was served, we talked about the foods as well as personal stories about food with our families. It was a bittersweet evening, as a few folks had to leave for red-eye flights later that night, and the rest left the next morning.
The adventure did not end here for me! Check out Part 2, which chronicles my solo part of the trip (3 weeks).
