Kashmir — The Garden of Unearthly Delights

I hope the title gave you a hint of those inexpressible feelings that I’m trying to evoke. Shpongle fam I’m looking at you. If you haven’t heard of them, go put on their music while reading this. Turn on, tune in…

From the soil to your soul.

The thought of Kashmir can stir up a multitude of emotions, whether it be that of a paradise or political propaganda. Considering the volatile nature of Kashmir, one should first explore the land and connect with the locals to alter any false opinion pre-embedded by the media. For those who don’t wish to read a lot, I made a short video for this trip in April 2019. Hopefully, it will lure you into packing your bags and heading off.

My flights and accommodations were booked before the Pulwama “attacks” took place. All the doubts I had about my safety was put to rest by my tour operator, Zulfi. The entire trip turned out to be an intensive therapy session to tackle countless hours spent in Mumbai traffic and a night stay in Delhi.

I put up in Hotel Mirage, Srinagar. Away from the main road, nestled in between beautiful bungalows, Mirage was true to its name.

Mornings began in their garden space with aloo parathas, eggs, and kahwa.

And ended with nights of moon gazing.

A bottle of rum or whiskey would’ve been nice, but I was recovering from a bad case of hyperacidity. I made peace with the fact that only 4–5 licensed liquor stores existed in the entire state and this trip would be fueled by fresh oxygen, non-existent in metropolitan cities. Back home in Mumbai, I was enduring 2 months of sleepless nights while living on fruits and a handful of meds. Doubtful as it already was, my trip would be incomplete without having my share of Rogan Josh. I was not in a position to travel or eat restaurant food but landing in Kashmir healed my discomfort to a great extent. Here’s how.

Dal Lake — En route Tulip Garden and Chasmashahi

They say that the Earth’s natural frequency affects the mind and body. It behaves like a gigantic electromagnetic field which surrounds and protects all living things with a natural frequency of of 7.83 hertz on average. Think of it like the Earth’s pulse or heartbeat.

Interestingly, 7.83 hertz is also our brain’s average alpha frequency. Among the five main categories of brain waves, alpha waves induce relaxation but not quite meditation — a state where we begin to tap into a layer of creativity that lies just below our conscious awareness.

It’s simple. Don’t you feel happier and more peaceful when you’re out in nature, away from from the cluster of city life? It is not just that you left the city behind. Or that you’re a person who likes nature. In nature, your body tunes into the Earth’s frequency easily and can restore, revitalize, and heal itself more effectively.

Turn on, tune in…

Zulfi said I was lucky to witness this bloom. Lucky was an understatement because as soon as I stepped in, the flower power blasted my brains. The Tulip Garden in Kashmir also happens to be the largest in Asia.

The sheer scale of it swallows all your woes.

Tulip Garden redefines the whole narrative of what a garden should be. Communities coming together to enjoy their Sunday picnics with families was heartwarming to witness.

Tuning into nature’s intricate symmetry.

Not gonna lie, I felt a gradual shift in consciousness after wandering around the garden. Hopefully, next time, I would do well to bring a large casserole of biryani as the locals did.

Next, I was on my way to a freshwater spring garden, Chasmeshahi where the air felt so fresh, I kept wondering whether I’d have to pay some sort of air tax to breathe it (the entirety of my trip to be precise). My mind was bamboozled into bliss mode.

Headed back to the hotel as everything shuts down by 8 pm. You’ll notice a certain kind of silence at night. A silence where you can dissect your thoughts and compartmentalize them.

My recovery felt fast-tracked, with no sudden stomach pains but instead, a sudden craving to risk it with Rogan Josh. No repercussions next morning.

A little birdie had informed Zulfi Bhai to keep an eye out for snow on the way to Sonamarg the next morning. I was on NH1 — the holy grail of Indian highways which passes from Uri to Baramulla, Srinagar, Sonamarg, Zoji La, Dras, Kargil and Leh. The roads were phenomenal.

I had never witnessed snow in my entire life. You can imagine the delight of cutting through all that fresh powder.

Came across the mighty Sindh river which cuts through the valley.

Kashmir is known for its delicious Apple cultivation. Almost any road you take, these apple blossoms will be streaming in and out of sight.

With all the scenery being absorbed, I felt truly content but nature is a gift that keeps on giving. My next stop was Gulmarg which is considered to be a must-visit. To my surprise, the snow at Sonamarg was just for starters.

It was a straight-up “full power 24-hour” snow in Gulmarg.

Dead Calm

Vacation homes for White Walkers.

Indian Army — watchers beyond the wall.

Exploring Gulmarg requires a bit of assistance if you’re travelling with your family. On rocky and snowy terrains, guides do their thing to make sure you don’t lose your way or break your back in zero visibility. They want to make an honest buck by pulling you around in their sledge or just fill you up with stories while they take you around. It’s unfortunate that a planned system that allows locals to earn their living doesn’t exist. Lot of them rely on tourists for their bread and butter but sadly, these are harsh times. They’ll flock you in groups, begging you to take them along as guides to point of you losing your cool. Zulfi told me he wants to visit Mumbai, see those tall towers and enjoy a day on the beach. And there I was, thinking about escaping the city to build my solar-powered house in the valley.

My last stop was at Pahalgam which is home to endangered species such as bears, leopards, and grey langurs.

As usual, the end of any trip is filled with bittersweet memories. Although, heading back to square one would be better dealt with after this wholesome trip.