El Camino de Santiago de Compostela, Days 3 and 4 (El Escamplero-Cornellana-La Espina)

Hola Chicos. I missed a post yesterday because there was no reception at the albergue(hostel). Apologies.

Day 2 was much tougher than the previous day’s jaunt from Oviedo to El Esplanero. The weather was much hotter and I increased the distance to 25km. People here walk as much as 45km in a day by the way, but that is usually on the non mountainous routes. I started at about 9pm, 2 hrs earlier than the previous day. Buuut, I went the wrong way for 20 mins or so. Terrible! After that it was fairly smooth sailing. I got to the hostel nice and late, first because I started later than everyone else, then there was the getting lost at the start and OBVIOUSLY walking by the hostel accidentally when I got there and wasting another 20 mins or so. If I keep at this wandering around I will be able to tack on an extra 10k or so to the total distance. Oh well.


The hostel was a former monastery. Which you think would mean a peaceful experience. Not so. It was a public holiday, assumption day I believe so they planned a massive party right in front of the monastery. Our hearts sank when we saw the posters, as it seemed lollapalooza was about to happen! (See photo below). Also I had to say goodbye to nameless 46 year old Italian lady as she and her group were walking further than I the next day. Parting, such sweet sorrow. Will I ever love again?

Today was great. I was second to leave for a change, after the Italian group. By this I mean the middle aged Italians. I soon caught up to them though as they often seem to misplace 1 or 3 of their members. However, 2 younger Italian ladies caught up to me 2 hrs into it. I’m not sure how. Witchcraft probably. I know, there are a lot of Italians. I’m told this is because they all take their holidays at the same time. So if I’d come next week for instance there might be no Italians. Luckily the universe is smiling upon me.

Conditions were much cooler and for pretty well the whole day we were protected by a thick blanket of fog. We made it to the Albergue in record time, and as an added bonus really got on well with each other. We are in La Espina for the night where a fellow traveler got her hair cut at a barber shop that had a sign identifying it as the “official barber shop of the Camino”. What??

-Early morning Fog

-Late morning Fog

-Yet more fog

I have the thought at the moment (subject to change) that the Camino is profound in its simplicity. You have to do a very simple thing for weeks and at the end of it you will have travelled from say the south of France to Santiago de Compostela. But it requires discipline. The dream of it is beautiful and exciting and one can wax philosophical about it endlessly but the only way to actually achieve it is to put one foot in front of another. For hrs and hrs and hrs.

A lot of us, myself included, when seeking change, inner or outer, seek an epiphany, or a silver bullet, a eureka moment! Those happen, but a lot of time the path to change is doing the simple things, the right things, over and over again, till they become who we are. The Epiphany usually just points us down the path, then comes the endless trudging.

All of which kind of ties back to what I said in a previous post about love and the law. Both are important. Love tells you why to do something, or maybe love is the why, the law just tells you to do it. Again and again, even when you don’t feel like it, until it becomes you.

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