Rediscovering My Hometown Asheville — As a Tourist
An unforgettable journey through Asheville, North Carolina, as we explore its vibrant history.
Anyone looking to take a trip to Asheville, I hope this post inspires you!
1. On the Way There
2. Cabin (or house?) In the Sky
3. A Brief History of Asheville
4. A Time Capsule that Feeds Inspiration
5. Our Trolley Tour of Asheville
6. Downtown Asheville
7. Goombay and Bele Chere
8. Jackson Building
9. The Biltmore Estate
10. The Next and Last Day
11. Asheville Mall
12. Barnes & Noble / Asheville Mall
∘ Congratulations! You Made It!
· References
Around two months ago, before the turn of the new year, I visited my birthplace, Asheville, North Carolina. It was a much-needed trip away from the mundane to experience something whimsical, and Asheville fits the bill. It also happened after experiencing a personal loss, so the trip offered a sense of comfort from the usual surroundings. It was a good distraction for a little while.
On Friday, December 8th, 2023, my sister, mother, and I embarked on a trip to Asheville. This trip was my first visit there since June 2011. We departed from central Georgia around 7:30 PM EST, and it took us approximately 4 hours to reach our destination.
On the Way There
After passing Greenville, North Carolina, I could see those famous Blue Ridge mountains creeping up from the distance as we drew nearer. We were on the road for 3.5 hours, arriving through West Asheville.
A little further into the journey, as we drew closer to the intended destination, an old, familiar presence began making its way to the skyline, as I noticed the slightest hint of the Blue Ridge Mountains in the distance approaching slowly. From that point, it had been such a far cry from the scenery I had been viewing for the past 15 years in my current state of Georgia.
Now, Georgia is beautiful in its own right. It does claim a portion of the Blue Ridge Mountain range that covers the northern part. However, being surrounded by them again was a refreshing experience.
Cabin (or house?) In the Sky
This structure seemed to sit on top of the world as I snapped a picture of it centered at the apex of a mountain, not an easy feat while moving at speed limits of 70+ mph.
We passed by quickly, but I did manage to capture the picture as we drove past the mountainside. These sky cabins became more prominent as we got closer to Hendersonville, North Carolina.
A Brief History of Asheville
The land that makes up Asheville was acquired by George Vanderbilt (Biltmore) around the mid-to-late 1880s. He purchased 125,00 acres of the land beginning in March 1888.
A sense of mystery runs throughout the city and its surrounding areas. Most locations have a deep history and a sense of melancholy. Asheville has a mystic quality to its atmosphere, but that could be due, in part, to the isoprene (source) emitted from the compounds of its forestry, which give the mountains that pale glow of blueness. There is so much to say about the city of Asheville. This city feels like a world away, almost unreal.
Asheville’s history is miles deep, layered, and involved. Almost every area within the region holds historical significance. I recommend the book Asheville, North Carolina: A History of the Land of the Sky (America Through Time) or Hidden History of Asheville for a more comprehensive historical background.
A Time Capsule that Feeds Inspiration
Once we finally reached Asheville, it felt equal parts like home and equal parts like the Twilight Zone. Looking around the city, it’s easy that someone can feel surrounded by a massive time capsule — a melting pot of historic, wistful gold.
Asheville’s spiritual and energetic undercurrents give the city its character for those sensitive to such energies. Sensibilities that power inspiration can heighten for the most artistic of hearts, and it is here the city invites one to explore the locations that make it majestic. The atmosphere feels heavy at times — for good or bad. It is the zone for old souls with a tuned-in perception and a penchant for mystery.
The nostalgic veil of yesteryear fell all over and covered the entire city. Every spot we ventured to on the tour aroused dormant feelings I had not tapped into in quite some time. I spent the first 15 years of my life here, and there were points during the trip where I could see remnants of a past life greeting me at every turn or avenue. That familiarity of seeing shadows of days long gone did leave me with a twinge of melancholia. A nostalgic sense of longing swelled up in the heart. However, I powered forward and took in the beautiful scenery for what it was and what it became.
We had made it there by car initially. The car ride lasted 30 minutes longer as we attempted to locate the Visitor/Welcome Center.
Our first stop was at the Asheville Visitor Center, where we rested for approximately one hour. Around 12:49 PM EST, my sister, mother, and I began boarding the trolley for a tour of Asheville.
Our Trolley Tour of Asheville
We traveled in a group, and due to time constraints, we could not explore the entire city by trolley to the extent I wanted. However, the places we visited were worth it and made up for not getting to wander around freely.
A trolley ride was scheduled for a tour of different parts of Asheville. Firstly, the trolley ride did not follow a linear course of travel, but was toured based on historical and cultural context. We toured the areas that held the most historical significance with regard to pop culture, famous notables, or events.
Our guide lead us through many memorable areas that have always stood out the most. We toured the Grove Park Inn, Swananoa/French Broad River, the Grove Arcade (downtown), Biltmore Avenue, Patton Avenue, and Mcdowell Street. We drove past the Battery Park Hotel, which has not changed from the last time I saw it. The Battery Park building also has an extensive history that the book Haunted Asheville dives into a great deal.
Pack Memorial Library The only area we did not tour was the Pack Memorial Library on 67 Haywood St. This is another favorite childhood hangout of mine. The library has three stories and is home to the book festival held every year in September. My mother would take me there each year to receive books they would give away.
According to our tour guide, while filming The Swan in 1955, Grace Kelly temporarily resided at one of the apartment complexes near North Asheville (source). The apartment’s name was Manor Inn, and it’s around the corner from the Omni Grove Park Inn grounds. I was surprised by how close the two locations were to each other.
Our guide also told us that Venus & Serena Williams, Harry Houdini, and Richard Simmons were among the many notables to stay at the Grove Park Inn.
Downtown Asheville
Downtown Asheville greeted us with open arms. Indeed, it was like meeting up with an old, familiar friend I hadn’t seen in over a decade.
Goombay and Bele Chere
Asheville is home to the unique Bele Chere and Goombay festivals.
When my family lived in Asheville, we would attend both festivals each year, and the streets would be jam-packed with a crowd of people. The festivals were one of the most exciting aspects of Asheville.
Bele Chere was discontinued some time ago, unfortunately. It ran from 1979 –2013. The music venue spanned across several blocks and hosted numerous musical acts throughout the years. I remember the concerts being very lively.
The Goombay festival was held from 1982 and is still active. https://www.romanticasheville.com/belechere.htm
Jackson Building
During our tour of downtown Asheville, we visited the Jackson Building located at 22 S. Pack Square. The building stands at 140 ft. high and sits on the edge of the corner at the end of the avenue. The Jackson building is one of the most noteworthy skyscrapers in the city. Our tour guide provided us with information about the location’s heavy history.
The Jackson building is not known to have the most carefree history. It has been subject to various demises and unfortunate events around the time the Stock Market crashed. The tour guide pointed out a set of bullseye-shaped circles placed at the base of the building to indicate the potential landing spots of unfortunate demises. Indeed, the building carries a dark and murky past, yet it stands as a relic against the forces of time.
When I lived in Asheville, the Jackson Building stood out as one of the tallest buildings in the area. It always loomed heavy over the atmosphere anytime my parents drove by the monument.
Let me not forget to mention the gargoyle statues peering down from all sides of the skyscraper.
After the trolley ride, we finally retreated to the Hampton Inn Hotel after our travels to prepare for a tour of the Biltmore Estate that would happen later that evening.
The Biltmore Estate
Asheville is home to a world-renowned architectural wonder called the Biltmore House. This home is the primary reason for this trip happening.
Getting to the Biltmore estate was quite a journey. After we got passed the ticket booth, there was a lengthy journey from the ticket booth to one of the shuttle lots. It took roughly 10–15 minutes to reach the driveway from one of the many designated motorways for tourists.
The three of us finally grabbed our places in line, and showed our tickets.
We entered the mansion, and the view was breathtaking. The paintings, fixtures, furniture, wallpaper, flooring, mantles, bookshelves, decor, and the art were all exquisite. There was a strong emphasis placed on art as we were touring the home. There were works by Impressionist Claude Monet in the Salon Room.
The home exudes grandness.
The library is amazing! The original books from that time are still holding in place.
It was a self-guided tour, but it formed a single file line with a group of people in any given direction.
Soon after, the tour was lead down to the basement. The basement is where most of the recreational spaces stood out.
What we deem as third places today for hobbies and interests seemed to all be contained within the entire home. The basement was recreation-based.
- Stone Hallway
- Halloween Room
- Bowling Room
- Bowling Alley
- Dressing Rooms
- Swimming Pool
- Gymnasium
The pool area has always been one of the standout moments for me.
While walking through the mansion, it struck me that the original owners had designed the home to be a perfect place for leisure, entertainment, and overall enjoyment. It seems like everything one could want or need lies within the extended walls of this home. There wouldn’t be any pressing need to go to most places because the mansion has most of it. Goals.
The Next and Last Day
On the second day, we left for Georgia. But before going, we managed to visit our old neighborhood and the the Asheville Mall on Tunnel Road.
It’s now Saturday, December 9th, 2023. On this day, the three of us ventured out on our own, away from the tour group, as we explored places we all used to frequent when we lived there. It was mind-blowing seeing how Tunnel Road looked after being away for so long. It remained almost as it was when we left here, but so many changes were underway, and the new builds were grabbing our attention more than anything.
There will always be a part of me that misses the childhood home on Livingston Street and the memories locked there. As we drove through our old neighborhood, I could not help but miss the past a little. For a minute, I longed for a return to simpler times.
As we made our way through Asheville, either on our own time or with the tour group, it became apparent how much Asheville had changed. There was no going back home, ever.
Asheville Mall
Afterward, we spent 2 1/2 hours at the Asheville mall. I scanned the food court for any changes made, and it turns out there were quite a few new restaurants in operation.
The last time I was there, there was a Subway on the far end of the restaurant line, and that Subway is now gone. Sbarro is another restaurant I used to frequent in my childhood, and the restaurant is now long gone, also. That’s probably a good thing, though, as I would have made it my business to grab a pizza at the first opportunity. : ) Instead, I went with Panda Express, which was equally tasty.
After leaving the mall food court, I walked alone as I explored the different parts of the mall as it appears today.
Barnes & Noble / Asheville Mall
The two-story Barnes & Noble bookstore… Oh, how I’ve missed this place. I remember that it finished construction the same year my family and I moved to Georgia. It opened in March 2009, and it remains one of my favorite places to visit.
After we left Asheville Mall, we got back on the highway and headed back to Georgia to face reality again. The nostalgic daze I had been in the entire time we were there began to fade.
Asheville is a place like no other. Its eclectic culture, bustling art scene, and complex history remain as intriguing as ever. It felt surreal to revisit this place I used to call home for the first 15 years on earth. That old life feels like a fever dream now.
Congratulations! You Made It!
Thank you so much for reading!!! : ) I will try to update this article with video footage at a later time.
For anyone interested in learning more about Asheville, I recommend checking out the books The Evil in Asheville and Haunted Asheville, both by Author Joshua P. Warren. Starting with those titles may provide a better understanding of Asheville’s lore and deep history.
