Six things ESL teachers need to know before moving to Spain

B​efore I start, I want to encourage you that living in Spain IS possible. And can be rewarding, if one has their expectations met. I truly believe the most important part of making a big life decision of any kind — and moving to Spain most certainly counts — is knowing as much as you possibly can beforehand. I can’t tell you everything about Spain in one article, but hopefully these tips will give you the clarity I wish I had before moving to Spain.

In my experience abroad, there were a lot of aspects to living in Spain that I and most of my fellow expatriates were not told that would have wholly changed our year abroad experience. But, I have narrowed it down to the six most important tips about Spain that seem to be universally misguiding or untold.

M​ost of this advice will be geared to people leaning towards Madrid; yet, even for those thinking of other cities, most of these tips should still be useful.

1. Sunny Spain is NOT always sunny.

Stunning Sierra de Guadarrama mountains during early November.

T​his point will apply most specifically to teachers moving to Madrid or any city in the northern half of Spain; but, given the fact that Madrid overwhelmingly has the best job market, this should be considered before moving to Spain. Madrid, famously, is unbearably hot during the summer months and both tourists and teachers are rightly advised to bring a host of warm-weather clothing. However, what people rarely know about Madrid is it can get frigid for much of the year.

Madrid offers the worst of both worlds, as a mountain-desert climate. Scorching hot in the summer, and surprisingly cold in the winter. Madrid is located beneath the great Sierra de Guadarrama mountain range, which during winter serves as one of Spain’s major ski resorts. Madrid, as a result of its proximity to the sierras, actually claims the highest altitude for any capital city in Europe. The most common complaint from all my friends, particularly my British ones, was that they “moved to get away from the cold, not to go somewhere colder.”

Now I don’t mean to scare you. After all, it isn’t artic-level temperatures; but during the prime winter months it can drop well below 0 degrees Celsius. I would say it generally hovers between 5–10 degrees Celsius during the months of November-March. It might not be Arctic level temperatures, but if you are unprepared or already cold-blooded, it can be tough. Lucky for you, winter clothes are generally cheaper in continental Europe than the US or UK, meaning that you can still pack solely for summer and worry about winter when it comes; but if the glorious image of “Sunny Spain” is one of your primary reasons for moving to Spain, the cold winter is at least worth factoring into your decision to move.

2. Advice BEFORE going to Spain/getting a TEFL.

Y​ou can find thousands of blogs/people telling you what to do in Spain, but I found a severe lack of advice for what to do before you go to Spain. Here are a couple tips I hope will better prepare you and help set you up for a successful teaching time and not a panic for survival like my own experience at times.

T​ip 1: Do not pay for an expensive TEFL program!

A​s you might be able to guess, my TEFL certification program was very expensive. And though I do not regret my time in Madrid, I do regret the way I handled my preparation.

I​f you are reading this, I imagine you’ve probably read the general protocol around Visas. If not, go to your local Consulate of Spain website (link here: http://www.exteriores.gob.es). They will have everything you need to know. If you haven’t read it, I will summarize. Basically, the only way for a US citizen (for UK, it’s a LOT easier) to get residence in Spain is through either an Au-Pair or a Student Visa. There are exceptions, but if you plan on doing the typical “go to Spain and teach” thing, this is the only way.

Many schools/academies offer joint TEFL and Spanish classes, TtMadrid being the one I used (link here: https://ttmadrid.com). Now I want to be careful here. I am not saying that they are bad, or unreliable. They were a good school and there were benefits to using them. However, they are expensive and ultimately not worth it. TtMadrid costs 3,600 euros (for non-EU citizens) or 1375 euros (EU citizens) to do a TEFL certification with 36-weeks of semi-intensive (90-minute classes). In the grand scheme of things, it isn’t the absolute worst thing in the world given the quantity of classes, but plenty of other Spanish courses are much cheaper per lesson or offer a smaller number of classes and would also qualify you for a Student Visa.

S​econdly, TEFL certifications are much easier and much cheaper if done on-line. If you are worried about either making friends without a TEFL course like such, or having personal guidance on how to teach better, or how to handle making a living then don’t worry. There are tons of free, independent groups that are out there to help you. And even more so than that, there’s something naturally bonding about being an expatriate in Madrid, and doubly being an ESL teacher. Trust me, everyone knows exactly what you are going through, for they all went through it themselves. Teachers in Madrid love helping new teachers and making new English-speaking friends.

H​ere is one helpful link for deciding which program might suit you best: https://www.goabroad.com/articles/teach-abroad/teacher-in-spain

Last note on this: the biggest regret I had about doing TtMadrid and spending such heavy money on getting to Spain in the first place is that when I arrived, I was almost immediately strapped. This led me to accepting below-par jobs and crazy schedules as I will discuss below. As with any big move, you need to save up money before moving locations, as it takes time to settle in. However, with regard to Spain I highly recommend saving a good amount more than you normally would as you wait to settle in and find good jobs. Good jobs are out there, I promise, and they are worth waiting for in the long run, but you might well have to wait a few weeks before the right one shows up. Not to mention you will want to make friends, grab drinks, and enjoy la vida Española.

3. Spanish work-culture might not be what you expect.

I​n the United States, we grow up with this vision of every Spaniard laughing on a beach, drinking Sangria till the wee hours of the morning, laughing all the while as they scoff at the idea of our American/British 40-hour work weeks. This, quite simply, is not the case. Perhaps in certain pueblos and regions you can find something approaching this lifestyle. But if you plan to live in Madrid, Barcelona, Valencia, or even Sevilla; expect to live in a — sorry to say it — “American-style” work environment.

The idea that all Spaniards are lazy is simply a myth. Certainly some lazy Spaniards exist; and they all conveniently work in the bureaucratic jobs, more specifically, whenever you need paperwork processed. What? No, I’m not salty at all (okay, maybe a little bit). But in all seriousness, some of the hardest working, most ambitious people I’ve ever met are those who I’ve taught in Madrid.

“O​kay, Spanish people aren’t lazy, cool. But what does that mean for me?” It means that if you had these pretty dreams of working 20–25 hours and spending every evening at a cerveceria, think again. I found myself working two times harder and longer in Spain than I ever had to in America to make ends meet (and I’m from Los Angeles). My average work-day started at 8am and ended at around 10pm every day, and there were still times I feared not making rent.

A​gain, I’m not trying to scare you. I’m just telling you the truth of my time in Madrid. But please, DON’T WORRY, this would have been avoidable if I’d received the advice I’m about to give you.

W​hich leads me to….

4. How to schedule your work day

The metro runs, though efficient, can often get delayed or break down. Always allow for extra time.

I​f I haven’t scared you away from moving here, then here are some tips I dearly wish I had beforehand.

T​ip 1: There are PLENTY of jobs. The biggest mistake I made (and most new teachers make) is accepting jobs that underpay and offer inconvenient hours. I know what you might be thinking: “But I don’t have previous teaching experience, so I can’t be greedy right?” First and foremost, you DO have experience. At least 18 years of it, if not more. You are a native English speaker. It might feel like no big deal to you, but in Spain it’s as valuable as gold. I’m not suggesting you should move there without getting a TEFL or a similar certification; but once you have that, you will be more than qualified to accept a job that pays you well and gives you convenient hours.

T​ip 2: The metro is everything!

O​ne of the most rookie mistakes you can make is spreading yourself out across the city and giving yourself no time between classes. Again, you can allow yourself to be picky when it comes to choosing schedules. There are two basic forms of making a living as a teacher. Teaching in schools, or teaching in academies. I will get into teaching in schools more later, but the easiest jobs to find (and most lucrative) are academy jobs. My recommendation would be to stay as close to the city center as possible (primarily Sol, Callao, Opera), or stay near the industrial/business center (Nuevos Minesterios, Santiago Berneabeu). Two reasons: navigating the city center/business center takes much less time than commuting in other areas, and the pay is naturally higher in the city center.

Spanish people in general are eager to learn English, and value convenience over money. This means that if someone works in the city center or by Nuevos Minesterios, they will have no issues paying extra money to have English class directly after work (or during work). Ideally, you would not want to take more than three-four metro trips in one day (including the journeys from home and back). Again, you might be tempted to take the first job you see in the city center, but don’t take it unless the pay is good and the hours are good. This leads me to tip three.

T​ip 3: What is a good wage/schedule.

H​onestly, you should not settle for anything less than (depending on the class) 18–22 euros an hour. It might sound like a lot of money for someone with no experience but you have to keep in mind that you are going to be lesson planning as well. A well-structured, detailed lesson plan (which you will want to do, especially when you first start with a client) will probably take at least 30–40 minutes. You will not be paid for lesson planning time by anyone, so factor that into the wage you accept. For conversation-based classes I wouldn’t push much higher than 20 euros because the lesson planning for them is much easier, and academies and clients know this. For a more traditional or fundamentals-based class (i.e grammar, vocab, etc.) then I would recommend accepting no less than 22 euros an hour (again, lesson plans for these need to be sharp, which takes time.)

In regard to what classes you shouldn’t take, never accept anything shorter than a two-hour block of classes. And furthermore, try to accept classes that meet twice a week. Most academies run M/W or T/TH, meaning should you accept an only Wednesday class for example, you will struggle to find a Monday class, for most academies offer blocks of two-times a week.

Once you do accept your first job, I highly recommend holding out for a job that starts no longer than an hour after your first block. The reason is that (like I did), you can find yourself with classes till 15:00, and then a massive, useless break until 17:30/18:00. This was one of the most frustrating aspects of my time in Madrid. Every other day, I sat around a park in the burning sun waiting 2 hours for my next class. Either that or making a pointless trip to my house to relax for 15 minutes before needing to hop back on the metro. That can be avoided by waiting for another job conveniently close in both hour and location to your previous block. Again, you might find yourself in Madrid one or two weeks after moving, still waiting for that perfect block and be tempted to accept another block of classes in a panic. Don’t! Good options will come about, I promise you.

T​ip 4: If you ignore all my advice, you can still fix this.

L​ook, I know the idea of waiting for a perfect job is scary, and I know first-hand how hard it can tug on the capacity of your nerves. I also know what it’s like to be nearly-broke and be offered a job (and more prevalent, offered peace of mind). If you do accept a bad job, it’s okay, because…

A​cademies and schools expect their teachers to move on, or at least won’t be offended or surprised. The English teaching community is an odd one in general. One of those oddities is that they genuinely don’t care (of course, there are exceptions). This is where one the Spanish culture of “tranquilidad” comes in handy.

Let’s say you take a job, and soon after are offered a better one, do NOT be afraid to go up to your academy and say that you either need an equal offer or you will accept the new job. Spanish people are realistic. Your boss will understand. And it’s pretty easy for them to replace those classes either with current or new employees. The only protocol you must follow to retain your respect and reputation is giving a two-week notice. But as long as you are respectful and do that, they will respect you back.

5. If you are from the United States of America or Canada, you are at a disadvantage. Sorry…it’s just facts :(

Again, my goal is not to discourage you from moving to Spain, but to be real with you. It’s a simple fact. From the VISA process all the way to securing a job, people from the UK will — all other things equal — be given priority.

Earlier, I briefly mentioned schools as possible options to teach at, and they are the best. They pay pretty well (although a savvy freelance teacher can make more), and the schedules typically have long blocks. The problem with this for Americans, is that as a Student VISA holder, you can legally work a maximum of 20-hours a week, and for this reason alone it’s difficult to get a position in a school as they often want full-time workers (a.k.a UK teachers). It’s not impossible to get hours at a school, as some schools do offer solid blocks of 2–4 hours, but they also tend to be well outside the city center, meaning the chances of you finding another good block nearby is small.

H​owever, if you move to Madrid early enough in the year (August/early September) before all the beaurocreatically advantaged Brits move in, you may find yourself lucky and get a solid 20–25 hour job at a school, in which case you can supplement your income with private tutoring through your own advertisement or even the help of your school.

B​ut again, that’s optimistic thinking. If you are coming from the USA/Canada, be prepared to be frustrated at times, it’s the reality. It’s much easier for schools and academies to do the paperwork for a UK citizens than an American/Canadian one. Don’t get too down though, there are plenty more jobs than teachers in Madrid, and if you are patient and prepared, you will find something good. Te prometo!

6. Cultural advice

T​his one is less related to your success and survival in Spain, and more of a heads up to help you blend in quicker or avoid awkward interactions.

T​ip 1: Spaniards are super, super direct people. Don’t get me wrong, they are polite and respectful, but those manifest themselves in very different ways than the English-speaking countries do. Their respect is shown in ways such as always offering their seat in the metro, or never pushing or shoving others out of the way, unlike places like New York, London, Tokyo, Kiev, etc. Madrileños are very generous people, and friendly. Just don’t be shocked when they tell you “hey, your hair looks messy.” Or “dime, que quieres” (literally translated: tell me what you want).

T​his extends to (for all my younger readers) flirting as well. Both men and women have no problem telling you exact what they think of you, be it good or bad. Don’t be jarred or offended, openness and honesty is a deeply-seeded part of their culture.

T​ip 2: Spaniards are generally passionate and love debating politics.

D​on’t get me wrong, the dinner table rules of no religion or politics still apply. Yet at the same time Spaniards love talking, and Madrileños in particular love an intellectual conversation. Before moving, or even traveling to Spain, I would recommend brushing up on their current political issues or national events. You don’t need to be an expert, but having a basic knowledge of what’s going on in their country will make Spanish people respect you a lot more. Not to mention you can help avoid saying the wrong thing to the wrong person.

T​ip 3: Spaniards love practicing their English.

M​y last tip for you, assuming you are trying to learn Spanish, is don’t get frustrated when you speak in Spanish, and they respond in English. They are not offending your Spanish skills, they are eager to practice their English. And likewise, if you continue to respond in Spanish, that’s perfectly normal. They will not take offense to it, as they will know you are trying to practice as well.

If you are looking to practice your Spanish in a non-formal — but also not at a bar — setting, intercambios are a great way to do that. You can find plenty throughout the city on week nights. One I liked was Wednesday and Friday nights at J&Js Bookstore. A​lso, do not be afraid to correct their English if they make a mistake. They appreciate it, actually. And besides they will definitely comment on your mistakes!

A​ssuming I haven’t sent you home running by now, I hope you do choose to move to Spain. Despite the difficulties at times, I loved my time there and do not regret it one bit. And neither will you.

M​ucha suerte a todos!