Damascus, Syria

Images and stories from Syria before the war

After arriving in Damascus, Syria in February of 2011, it felt much like most other capital cities in the Middle East. In fact, Syria seemed like one of the more liberal Arab countries when compared to some of its neighboring countries. Unbeknownst to us, while we were exploring such a beautiful country full of history and warmth, was that it would one month later be embroiled in a brutal civil. A war that since 2011 has caused tens of thousands of deaths and displaced over a million war refugees. We were able to capture images and stories of a Syria that no longer exists, a Syria before the war. Here is what we wrote upon returning home in March of 2011…

Founded in the 3rd millennium B.C., Damascus was an important cultural and commercial centre, by virtue of its geographical position at the crossroads, between Africa and Asia. The old city of Damascus is considered to be among the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world. One thing that we noticed was how the Syrian people were very warm and welcoming. Asking to have their pictures taken with you, inviting you into their shops for tea (without the usual high pressure sales pitch), and doing everything in their power to make you feel right at home.

Rather than staying in Central Damascus, a better option is to book a hotel in the Old City, where the bulk of the sights (and most of the atmosphere) are to be found. Here within the old walled city there are numerous boutique hotels that have been created by renovating traditional17th century Damascene houses. Most of these have 8–12 rooms on two floors, and are situated around an open courtyard with a fountain. They are easy to miss as you wander around the maze-like streets and alleyways, since they usually have very modest wooden doors that serve as entranceways.

But be prepared to be pleasantly surprised when you open that door. In most cases, you will find all of the most modern conveniences inside, including WiFi, minibars, heated towel racks, and heated marble floors. Dar al-Mamlouka near Bab Touma is a perfect example of one of these stunning hotels.

Start your day by fortifying yourself with a typical Syrian breakfast, including tasty white cheese, yogurt, olives, tomatoes, croissants to rival any you’ll find in Paris, eggplant, and an array of fantastic fruit.

A great way to immerse yourself quickly into the scene is to simply wander the labyrinth that is the Old City, which dates back to the 15th century BC. Here you’ll be immediately thrust into the vibrant sights, sounds, and smells of people cooking, working, shopping, eating, strolling, selling, and hanging out.

Don’t be afraid to poke your head into the little shops and businesses to see what’s going on. You may see people baking bread, weaving brocade or silk fabric, making swords from Damascene steel, wooden mother-of-pearl inlay boxes or furniture, and finely engraved brass or copper plates. Chances are you’ll be warmly welcomed and even invited to stay for tea.

One thing you will quickly notice is that everyone, including women, smokes sheesha (flavored tobacco) in waterpipes . You’ll see this in the most casual cafes as well as the most upscale restaurants. There are many shops that sell the colorful glass waterpipes.

Another popular pastime is backgammon, which inspires passionate competitions in cafes and right on the sidewalks.

The Old City is surrounded by a series of gates, called “Bab” in Arabic. Until the 20th century, all 13 of these gates used to be closed at sunset every day to keep out the enemy. They can serve as good landmarks to help you navigate the winding streets and alleys.

One of the highlights in Damascus is the Umayyad Mosque, one of the holiest places in the Muslim world, second only to Mecca. People have been worshipping at this site since the 9th century BC, and Muslims from many nations make the pilgrimage to come here.

If you are female, and wearing Western garb, you will need to visit the “Putting on Special Clothes Room” on the side entrance, to cover yourself with a hooded abaya.

On the north side of the mosque, there is a magnificent courtyard with a shimmering white limestone floor and golden mosaics, flanked on three sides by an arched arcade. Before entering the courtyard, you must remove your shoes, and either check them at the entrance or carry them with you. This courtyard serves as a social place for families to gather and chat. Don’t be surprised if some of the women and children approach you and ask to take your picture, or for you to take theirs.

Once you enter the actual prayer hall, be sure to heed the separate sections for men and women. You’ll notice a green-domed, marble-clad shrine in the sanctuary, usually with crowds of people touching it reverently. It is said to contain the head of St. John the Baptist (Prophet Yehia to Muslims), which was discovered in a casket buried under the floor here back in the early 8th century, still with the skin and hair intact.

Just west of Umayyad Mosque is the giant covered market, Souq al-Hamidiyya. Here you will find everything from clothes (including racy lingerie) and handicrafts and shoes to toys and jewelry.

We also spotted a young boy on a bicycle he had outfitted with a coal burning stove so he can sell roasted nuts in a mobile fashion. Talk about innovation! Note the holes in the corrugated iron roof which let the sunlight stream in. They are the result of machine gun fire from French planes during the nationalist rebellion of 1925.

There is another large souq just south of Umayyad Mosque, called the Damascus Souq. This souq specializes in spices, gold, sweets, perfume, and textiles.

Straight Street runs east-west and is a busy and ancient center of commerce. It was mentioned in Acts 9, where God speaks to Ananias in a vision and tells him to go to “the street called Straight.”

Here you will find many small, family run shops, and bars often with better prices than you will find in the souks. Check out Beit Zaman Gallery for wonderful scarves and other great souvenirs.

Old city is full of great restaurants, including Naranj and Elissar, where you will enjoy traditional Syrian fare at very modest prices. Be sure to try the freshly squeezed blood orange juice at Naranj, and whatever you do, be sure to leave room for the huge complimentary dessert plates of fruit and pastry.

There are also tons of more casual options, including late night takeout from Winners (just remember to ask for “habash” if you want turkey), and lots of pizza and shwarma joints.

For drinks, there is a very colorful little dive bar called Bar Saloon, and one that is popular with ex-pats called After 7, both on Straight St.

For a more lounge-like vibe, check out Oxygen near Bab Touma. For a true club scene, there’s Zodiac, also on Straight St.

Once you’ve had your fill of Old City, be sure to walk around the more modern part of the city known as Central Damascus. If you see what looks like a butcher shop but with tables, you’ve stumbled across a gem of a place called Restaurant Damas.

Watch as they cook your kebabs while you nibble on the freshly made hummus and salads. Here you can gorge yourself on incredible food for just a few dollars.

With the extended civil war that has been going on for the three years since this story was written, we felt it important to show another side of this country. Too often countries are defined by the turmoil that exists within their borders, with the people and historical places getting lost in all of the carnage. Damascus was a bustling vibrant city prior to March 2011, full of kind, friendly people, a stark contrast from what we see and hear in the news today. We can only hope the people we met are alive and well and that Damascus will recover and rise again to be the warm, thriving place it was just three years earlier.