Everything You Need To Develop Film At Home

It’s cheaper than you think.

Doddi El-gabry
7 min readAug 19, 2019

The first time I developed film at home, I did everything wrong. And it worked.

Glorious, glorious film! I shit you not, there is no better feeling than unveiling your first, freshly developed film.

Actually, the first thing I did — that is order the wrong chemicals — didn’t work; but at least I managed to get a full refund from eBay with my return before buying the right kit. So yeah, if you’re scrolling through Amazon thinking, “Damn, this shit’s expensive,” but then you stumble on a seemingly perfect deal supplying a full kit of 2-liters of everything for a fraction of the price of some ripoff “Tetenal” bullshit, then great! That’s awesome. Juuuuust make sure the label reads Color Film Developer, not Replenisher… yeah…

My second attempt at getting the right equipment was a little more straightforward. I already had a wealth of resources recommending an established brand, and I kinda just wanted to make sure not to mess anything up in the development process — across from the money I’d spent, I had too many memories invested in those film roles to risk spoiling them!

So like any self-respecting photographer-type hipster-hobbyist who’s desperation peaked, I just bought whatever YouTube told me to.

C-41 Tetenal Colortec 2.5l Kit. Cost around $50 on eBay, but you can find it for less liters with a cheaper price tag. I wish
C-41 Tetenal Colortec 2.5l Kit. Cost around $50 on eBay, but you can find it for less liters with a cheaper price tag. This will be by far the most expensive part of development. I wish this was a paid ad.

You’ll need a C-41 Color Film Developer kit.

This might be in the form of liquid or packaged powder, but that’s not important, because you’re going to be mixing it with water either way. What’s important is that you make sure the actual chemicals are right. For color film, you need C-41. I bought 2.5 liters of the Tetenal Colortec kit, which wasn’t exactly cheap, but it did get cheaper the more liters I bought in bulk (I think I managed to save about one extra liter for the price of 0.5 liters).

I’m not suggesting there aren’t better or cheaper color film development kits out there, but I had reached a point where I was willing to cough up a bit more cash to ensure I had enough resources on the kit and a higher chance of successfully developing the film. It was worth it.

Oh, also: read the manual. No skimming, Sarah. You’re welcome.

From left to right: a beaker to keep track of measurements, developing tank with its lid and funnel on the side, and three 2.5l bottles for the stabilizer, developer and bleach-fix respectively.

So you’ve got your chemicals, what next?

You’ll need some bottles to store them in, and while you’re at it, go scavenge the kitchen for a funnel or buy a cheap one online for less than a buck. Ideally, one that’s wide enough to make pouring chemicals easier (you’ll need this anyway for later when you’re actually developing). A beaker may also come in handy when making your measurements in the initial mixing process, though any kitchenware, such as a measuring cup, will do the job.

Plastic bottles were cheap, and you can find them virtually anywhere, but I still don’t recommend them if you want to develop film more professionally. You see, plastic is durable, yet malleable, and you’re going to be dealing with a lot of temperature changes throughout development. Moreover, plastic bottles may not be airtight, and oxygen is the enemy of your chemicals.

If you want to go full-out-pro, then you should go with something made of glass, which may be costlier, but ultimately better in the long run, especially if you’re planning on storing the chemicals for greater periods of time. I personally don’t require anything more than my plastic bottles, since I’m a pretty active developer, and I make sure to store them in a cool, dry place whenever not in use. Hence, at least for the cost-efficient hobbyist developer, plastic bottles will suffice.

Amber glass growler bottles with airtight caps for a more professional storage option.

Get a thermometer, because you’ll forget.

Go. Get one. Now. Like, seriously do it right now. Everybody needs a thermometer in the house anyway, and literally any thermometer will do; but I recommend one long enough to be able to read the temperature of a water-filled tank or bathtub — that’s what you’ll be needing it for after all. Of course you could just clip it to the side of your tank or tub, but point is, don’t make your life difficult. I got this cheap food-thermometer, seen below, for less than a couple of bucks online and it’s pretty convenient.

Food-thermometer you can get online for less than $3.

You’ll absolutely need a Developing Tank.

The reason we don’t need “darkroom” in “darkroom development” anymore is because of an ingenious little gadget called a development tank. Your film is precious, and seeing the light of day (or even a fraction of it) will mean the end of it. Therefore, unless you’ve got an actual darkroom, you’ll need a way to mix your film in all the chemicals without any light touching it. The development tank is impressive because it gives you the ability to poor liquids in/out whilst ensuring the contents inside are light-tight, and the film doesn’t get overexposed.

I got this second-hand post-War Soviet-era tank on eBay for about $15 with delivery. These things usually go for about $30 brand new, but they are on offer all the time on eBay, just make sure the condition is good and in working order.

When buying your tank, the reels (or “loading spirals”) should be included, along with the mixing spool, cap and anything else that might be essential depending on the size of your tank. For example, a model with a capacity of 3 reels should come with all three loading spirals and two cylindric fillers (shown above) to replace the reels in case you want to develop just one role.

Development tank shown with its contents: 3 detachable loading spirals, the tank body, screw cap, interchangeable rubber cap and funnel, and mixing spool.

Lastly, if you’re getting an outdated tank like I did, it’s a huge plus to make sure the instruction manual is included, as it may become increasingly more difficult to find resources pertaining to your tank online. On the other hand, if you go with a brand like Paterson, or AP, and get a more modern model, your chances of finding more resources or tutorials online are highly likely.

Things you’ll need before development.

Blankets, scissors, and some old newspapers.

It’s easy to forget that you’ll first have to load the film into the tank in a darkroom-like environment before you can actually start working with your chemicals and tank. Now, you could buy a changing bag for another $30, or you could just use your bedsheets. Fair warning, it will get messy, sweaty, you won’t be able to see what you’re doing, and you’ll hate it either way. But at least in one way you’ll be hating it with $30 in your pocket.

The remnants of a “darkroom” session loading film into the tank under dense, light-proof bedsheets. Minus a couple sweaty palms with scratches on them.

You’ll need the scissors to cut the film from the film role when you’re placing it in the tank under the sheets — dirty allusions intended, and yes, I hate myself.

Got any old newspaper lying around next to the chimney, perhaps? Great. Use it as a covering layer on your bathroom floor; you wouldn’t want to leave any stains.

Things you’ll need during development.

Your phone.

Seriously, it’s your greatest asset. You could get a stopwatch, but I strongly recommend you download a lab-timer app that lets you time multiple sessions without needing to restate the clock duration. Also, it’s a great way to look at any notes last-minute throughout the process to double check you’re doing everything correctly.

Your bathroom will become your new best friend. Just make sure to warn your roommates about any hanging film you left in there to dry…oops.

Things you’ll need after development.

Hanger, hanger clips and paper towels.

After you’ll have officially finished developing your film, you’ll need a place to dry it. A hanger and some clips hung up on your bathtub will do the trick.

Paper towels. Well…actually, they’ll come in handy all throughout.

Summary

Looking back at everything, here is a definitive list of all the things you need, which you can use as a checklist:

  • C-41 Color Film Developer kit with manual
  • 3 Bottles
  • Funnel
  • Thermometer
  • Developing Tank with Reels & Spool
  • Scissors
  • Blanket
  • Bathtub/kitchen sink/tray
  • Paper towels
  • Hanger
  • Hanger clips

Optional:

  • Beaker
  • Gloves
  • Lab coat
  • Goggles
  • Newspapers

Start developing!

And that’s it! You’re ready! You spent a bunch of money, but saved a bunch more, and you’re ready to develop your own 35mm film! (Damn, you were looking to develop 80mm film this whole time? Ouch…)

The face when you finally get the proper chemicals to develop your film…You’ll be there soon enough.

Anyway, I hope you found this list useful, but I’m open to any requests for clarifications or recommendations you might want. Oh, I’m also thinking of writing a step-by-step piece on the film development process, so let me know if that’s something you’re into. Happy Developing!

--

--

Doddi El-gabry

Filmmaker with a BSc in Computer Science. On a mission to save cinema @Cinebur