The Range of Varieties
Since the discovery of the coffee fruit, the mother of all coffee varieties Coffea Arabica has developed numerous varieties, either from natural mutations or as a result of controlled cultivations. But for many the existence of different coffee varieties and their effect on the taste is still a relatively unknown field, as the origin of coffee is usually in the focus of any information about coffees on the shelves.
Similar to wine, most of these varieties have a variety-typical taste, which is influenced by the cultivation, harvest, processing and of course the climatic conditions. You may know the taste of a Merlot or a Pinot Grigio but do you even know the difference between a Typica or Geisha coffee?
We give an overview of some of the old coffee varieties that are typical for the different origins we source our coffees from.
Typica
With its impressive history this is one of the most culturally and genetically important arabica varieties in the world as it is the parent plant of all other arabica varieties. Supposed to have originated in Ethiopia it was taken to Yemen sometime in the 15th or 16th century before the coffee seeds were sent to India, Indonesia and later from Java to the Netherlands. From there the seeds was sent on colonial trade routes to Central America before it was shared with the rest of the world.
Bourbon
Due to its high quality and sweetness in the cup, the Bourbon plant is one of the most popular coffee varieties in the coffee world. It is a tall variety characterized by relatively low production, susceptibility to the major diseases but excellent cup quality. Developed from a natural mutation of the Typica variety, the Bourbon plant originally came from Yemen — before French missionaries introduced the variety to the Île Bourbon (now Île de la Réunion) in the early 1700s. From the mid-19th century, the variety spread in Africa and South America. Well-known varieties such as Caturra, Catuai and Mundo Novo are descended from the Bourbon plant.
Caturra
Discovered on a plantation in Brazil sometime between 1915 and 1918, Caturra is a natural mutation of the Bourbon variety. Today, it is one of the most economically important coffees in Central America, to the extent that it is often used as a “benchmark” against which new cultivars are tested. In Colombia, Caturra was thought to represent nearly half of the country’s production until a government-sponsored program beginning in 2008 incentivised renovation of over three billion coffee trees with the leaf-rust resistant Castillo variety (which has Caturra parentage).
Villa Sarchi
Villa Sarchi (also called Villalobos) is also a natural mutation of a Bourbon population and was discovered in the Costa Rican town of Sarchi in the 1950s or 1960s. It is known for being well-adapted to the highest altitude conditions and tolerant of strong winds. If cultivated carefully under good conditions, the variety develops a distinct complexity in the cup.
Catuai
The Catuai variety is a cross between highly productive Mundo Novo and compact Caturra, made by the Instituto Agronomico (IAC) in Brazil. The plant is susceptible to coffee leaf rust but also productive compared to Bourbon, in part because of its small size, which allows plants to be closely spaced. The coffee cherries of the Catuai plant are yellow or red and develop a bright acidity in the cup when roasted gently. Today, Catuai is particularly popular in Brazil, Costa Rica, Guatemala and Honduras.
Pacamara
Created in El Slavador Pacamara originated from a cross between Pacas and Maragogype. With its large fruits and huge beans it is very easy to identify this variety. Cultivated in the highest elevations in Central America the cup profile is mostly very positive with sometimes chocolaty or fruity characteristics.
Geisha
This variety is world-famous for outstanding taste profiles and is also one of the most expensive coffees available. While Geisha plants originally collected from coffee forests in Ethiopia and was sent from there to Costa Rica and Panama the variety became famous in 2005 after a coffee from Boquete, Panama, received exceptionally high marks, selling for over $20/pound. When the plants are managed well at high altitude Geisha coffees are known for its outstanding floral, jasmine and fruity aromas. Geisha coffees are often used at barista competitions to present an extraordinary taste profile. The purchase prices of the best Geisha coffees are already for the roaster between € 50 and € 200 per kilo.
SL 28
The SL28 was created by the former Kenyan Scott Agricultural Laboratories (now the National Agricultural Laboratories, NARL). It has consequently spread from Kenya, where it was originally selected in the 1930s, to other parts of Africa (it is important in Arabica-growing regions of Uganda, in particular) and now to Latin America. SL28 is notable for its rusticity — a quality meaning that it can be left untended for years or even decades at a time, and then return to successful production. There are SL28 trees in many parts of Kenya that are 60–80 years old and still productive. SL28 coffees we know mostly have a dazzling acidity with sweet and citric flavors.
SL 34
Also the SL34 was originally selected in Kenya the late 1930s at the Scott Agricultural Laboratories. Mostly found in Kenya today it is known for excellent cup quality with sometimes almost tropical aromas and a juicy acidity. Individual tree selections made at the Scott Laboratories in Kenya during the 1935–1939 period were prefixed “SL.” SL34 was selected from a single tree on the Loresho Estate in Kabete, Kenya since research at the Scott Laboratories was often conducted in cooperation with local, private estate owners.
Ruiru 11
Developed in Kenya Ruiru 11 is a compact, high yielding variety with high production potential and with fewer losses from diseases and pests. Ruiru 11 owes its existence to a coffee berry disease (CBD) epidemic in 1968 that lead to the loss of 50% of Kenya’s production. The crisis sparked action. In the 1970s, the coffee research station at Ruiru, which gives Ruiru 11 its name, began an intensive cultivation program for varieties that were immune to CBD. This led to the development of Ruiru 11, which was released in 1985.
Most of the research on cultivation and varieties takes place in the coffee-producing countries. Biological research is very important as in particular the sensitive Arabica plant near the equator is faced with new challenges of the climate change. So let’s give more appreciation to the range of arabica varieties in future.
Photography: © World Coffee Research
