Edifier S351DB

Roman Dreyer
5 min readFeb 18, 2023

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I’m always on a journey for a good sound. Of course you always can buy some tens of thousands dollar system, if you have the money and will. But I like to spice it with budget and size. It makes it much more challenging to find a small and cheap enough speakers that still sound good.

If you read my previous post, you know that I already have a main sound system located in my living room. This time I was looking for a solution for my PC.

First thing you think about is probably Logitech?! So I began to review the best Logitech speakers you can find. But, very quickly I discovered brands like Edifier, Swan and other same category competitors.

After watching Z Reviews review about the Edifier S350DB

I quite made up my mind. But I still did a sub research and found a few other Edifier interesting models from the same family:

As you may see, we have here some four family members. All quite the same. Main differences are:

  • Subwoofer — wired vs. wireless
  • Twitter — different elements
  • Controls — different location on right speaker
  • Remote Control — different models

Even though dear Z Reviews reviewed the S350DB, I decided to buy the S351DB model. As you may see, the difference in the name is just 1 number ahead, indicating that there is not much of a difference and so it is. Per my study, the only difference is the remote control shape. The old one was round, reminding some big chromecast. It looked not convenient. The new RC was in a classic bar shape, looking much more intuitive and more comfortable to hold and use.

S350DB Remote Control RC600A
S351DB Remote Control RCA10C

I thought about the S360DB. Edifier claims that its twitters are much better. But, it also has a wireless subwoofer and my approach to electronics, Audio equipment and technology in general, is very simple: keep it as less wireless as possible. Wireless is prone to interference, slightly higher delay and also a bit of electromagnetic emissions. I’m not a tin-foil hat guy, but on the other hand, if you can transmit less, why to transmit more?

So, even though the better twitters of S360DB were inviting, the wired subwoofer of S351DB won, for me.

Last and maybe the least too, is the M601DB. I haven’t checked, but something told me inside of me that the “M” stands for Multimedia. While the “S” hints of something more professional. Maybe more “S”erous?! Also per Edifier’s specs, the M601DB has down to 50Hz while the S351DB has down to 40Hz. Now I know that official specs are more a marketing rather than independent lab test results, but yet. It also has a needless for me wireless subwoofer. It has less RMS power and some other minor differences.

S351DB was the choice.

For now, it has one flaw. It has no fuse. Once, we had a power issue and it just burnt the subwoofer. I thought that I’ll find the fuse and replace it. But there is no fuse. It brought me eventually to disassemble the subwoofer. I thought maybe there is a fuse inside. But none was found. The seller replaced the burnt subwoofer with a new one and many thanks for that to him. But, the reason I began to write this post in the first place, is because due to all the situation above, I happened to photo the inside PCB of the subwoofer. I don’t know how about you, but I like to look inside an electronics product, especially an audio one, to know what quality are the parts. If it is a popular product, someone will post photos of its internal parts. But, when it is not so popular, then it is hard or simply impossible to find those photos and specs and you basically buy a “cat in the sack”.

So here are my photos, I hope it will help someone to decide to buy it, or just for a curiosity.

The photo above, shows the inside of the metal plate covering the back of the subwoofer. We can see on the right side the electric socket, connecting to the ON/OFF switch, from that, it goes to the power transformer wrapped in the copper foil. Probably to minimize interference. In the end, from the other side of the transformer, we can see a DC wiring going to the PCB.

This is the main board.

Here are some more photos, excuse me for the quality, it is just a Pixel 6 camera:

We can see that the model of the board is A-TAS5754–25

On the other side we see E252098 which might be the identifier of “Rong Hui Electronics (Huizhou) Co LTD” But I haven’t verified it.

List of chips I was able to identify:

  • Burr-Brown TI TAS5754M — Class-D audio amplifier
  • Burr-Brown TI PCM9211 — Digital Audio Interface Transceiver with Stereo ADC
  • ST STM32F-030C8T6 — Arm Cortex-M0 MCU
  • TI CD4052BM — Multiplexer
  • TI TAS5713 — Class-D audio amplifier
  • TI TAS5707 — Class-D Audio Amplifier
  • TI AIC3254 — Audio CODEC

I hope the technical information helped you and I hope you enjoyed reading this post.

Thank you for your time.

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