Japan, Hiroshima Today — Past Meets Present

Hiroshima Today and Yesterday

The city lying on the edge of Japan’s main island (Honshu) is well-known to many non-Japanese mainly due to the devastation levied by the Enola Gay on August 6, 1945. However, a richer history beyond that moment is still very much remembered by many locals. One could start with the food and there are so many here that have made a name for Hiroshima. History dominates most people’s conversations when thinking about Hiroshima today and for good reason. Looking beyond the atom bomb is easy when spending some time in and around Hiroshima Castle.

Though the original — as almost everything in the city — didn’t survive, Hiroshima Castle serves as an informative museum for local and national history from the city’s early beginnings through the end of World War II. There’s no pomp and pride at this site when thinking of a typical Japanese castle and that’s okay. Though the recreated tower is concrete-based, the outer structures are wooden and stay faithful to tradition. Surrounded by a moat, this humble yet towering castle fits the relaxed and humble atmosphere one gets just from walking around this unimposing city of over one million residents.

Peace Memorial Museum

Visiting the Peace Memorial Museum is a hard thing to face but a place that we all should. To make things a bit more complicated, we arrive during one of Japan’s busiest holidays — Children’s Day. It is our last chance to see the Peace Memorial and a mandatory stop for anyone with an interest in world-changing events. Whether or not one feels either bomb (the second being dropped on Nagasaki) was justifiable, humanity lost its conscience in August 1945.

Hiroshima does not explicitly use the museum as a jab at those responsible for the destruction. Instead, the building promotes peace education and awareness through its history as an example. After seeing images of nuclear bomb development and Hiroshima just before the bombing, I can barely prepare for what’s next. Prior to entering the Main Building, I pass through a section dedicated to peace and a nuclear-free world. Perhaps this section makes one think there’s still hope for the world and our future existence.

Disappeared People

The images and stories found inside the Main Building are the most gut wrenching and tear inducing I’ve come across in life. There are seemingly countless tragic stories of families — forget buildings or bases — destroyed by The Bomb and the first images I will always remember are the wax figure recreations of people losing skin to the extreme heat produced by the explosion. Among the other troubling sights, we walk past tattered remains of clothing, hair, and even fingernails saved by devoted parents. It is becoming too much but I have to keep going through it. I feel a sense of duty here and have to face up to it.

What strikes me most are the multiple stories of “disappeared” families included mostly children. Part of me wants to get out of here and just run away to a far-off corner. I can’t do that and must continue reading the terrible accounts of those who’d “met the A-bomb,” known in Japanese as Hibakusha. After all, it was MY country that did all this. There’s no point running away from your mistakes. I force myself to read everything and take in everything that the museum has to offer.

Kids, Sadako

Something else catches my attention that keeps the emotions veering towards collapse. Kids are everywhere inside this place, walking around and seeing these horrible things. Parents have made a conscious effort to show their children what happened to people just like them almost 70 years ago. Somehow, it makes sense and I secretly commend the parents for doing this. As I walk through the displays explaining the cancerous aftereffects of radiation, a few questions come to mind. How would our kids handle such a place? Would they grow up advocating world peace? Would our society grow into a more peaceful one if all kids visited the Peace Memorial Museum? Before I could answer that question, I arrive at the wall dedicated to the most famous victim of The Bomb: Sadako Sasaki.

She’s the girl who was miraculously unaffected (at first) when the explosion happened. After growing up as a normal girl, Sadako later sought care at the hospital and the doctors diagnosed her with leukemia. Somehow, this all occurred 10 years after the bomb had fallen. In hopes of surviving, she recalled an old folktale which declared a wish would be granted to anyone who could fold 1,000 paper cranes. Young Sadako fell short of her goal when she died less than one year after entering the hospital. In a truly heartwarming finale though, Sadako’s classmates chipped in and finished the remaining cranes to complete 1,000.

Walking Out, Thinking Back

After seeing drawings from Atom Bomb survivors, we leave and encounter exactly what the museum strives for: peace. Everywhere there is a celebratory atmosphere and even more, we can see a beautiful celebration of Hiroshima’s flowers and tons of children enjoying their day. Even after listening to the joyous music, consuming copious amounts of street food, and staring at gorgeous flowers, I still can’t cope with the images seen inside the Peace Memorial Museum.

It perfectly captures one of the world’s worst tragedies but leaves one with hope for the future. To a large degree, the people in Hiroshima have moved on. One thing clearly lacking is a pointed finger for the destruction imposed on its people. What exists in abundance is hope for a peaceful world in the future. Hiroshima was a separation between past and present but also between peace and war. There is so much one can learn from walking around in Hiroshima. I hope to one day show my own kids around it and hope that they’ll understand its importance. Hiroshima’s past and present can teach us all a thing or two about how humanity lost its way but through peace, a more positive future is possible.

Getting to Hiroshima Castle

Courtesy of Japan Guide

Take the Tram lines 1, 2, or 6 to Kamiyacho-nishi or Kamiyacho-higashi and walk a little over 10 minutes to reach the castle. One can also reach it via a 15-minute walk from Peace Park.

Getting to the Peace Memorial Museum

Courtesy of Visit Hiroshima

There are two tram options for reaching the Peace Park and Memorial Museum. You can either take the Tram bound for Eba and Miyajimaguchi from JR Hiroshima Station and get off at “Genbaku Domu-mae.” The other option is to take the Yoshijima bound tram from JR Hiroshima Station and getting off at the “Heiwa-kinen-koen” stop.