The Sense of Design in Contemporary Jewelry

Sherry Du
5 min readJan 21, 2024

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In the thriving development of modern jewelry art, a sense of design has become a key element in showcasing unique taste. In this era, design has transcended mere decoration and evolved into a form of expression rich in thoughtful depth. Jewelry designers, with their skilled craftsmanship and distinctive creativity, seamlessly blend the beauty of nature, cultural richness, and modern aesthetics, endowing jewelry with spirituality and vitality. The sense of design extends beyond the unique appearance, manifesting in the exquisite application of materials, colors, and craftsmanship. This distinctive design philosophy not only enriches the artistic content of jewelry but also presents a marvelous fusion of fashion and tradition. Each piece of jewelry thus becomes an art piece rich in narrative and emotional resonance.

Chanel High Jewelry Tweed Collection — Royal Necklace

The luxury brand Chanel, known for its iconic tweed fabric creations, has seamlessly translated this signature design element into the realm of jewelry, creating high-end pieces that exude sophistication, classicism, design sensibility, and elegance. The Royal Necklace from its High Jewelry Tweed Collection is a testament to this fusion. Crafted from gold and red gemstones intricately woven into a “tweed” pattern, the necklace features a lion totem made of diamonds, symbolizing grandeur and timeless allure. To achieve the appearance of lightness and softness reminiscent of tweed fabric, artisans employed exquisite hinge craftsmanship, ensuring the piece moves with fluidity and grace. When worn around the neck, it evokes the timeless brilliance of a tweed knit garment, allowing this classic element to radiate its utmost charm and convey the brand’s eternal and classic qualities.

Chanel Café Society Collection

In addition to the reimagining of classic elements, Chanel’s another high jewelry series, Café Society, draws inspiration from the hedonistic lifestyles of poets, artists, socialites, and elite members of high society from the 1920s to the 1960s. Infused with the style preferences of the elite class and the avant-garde aesthetics of Art Deco, the collection brings forth a series of exquisitely designed high-end pieces. Organized around the timeline, the pieces use gemstones of different colors to interpret the elegant and refined lifestyles at various times of the day. As night falls, the works incorporate black onyx paired with diamonds. The entire series is a perfect fusion of Art Deco and deconstructivism. The designers distill geometric elements, breaking them apart and reassembling them into cohesive compositions. Lines, circles, and diamonds interweave, subtly featuring the iconic camellia motif. However, through this process of deconstruction and reconstruction, the collection embodies a heightened sense of design, decorative aesthetics, and elitism, departing from the romanticism often portrayed in the brand’s offerings.

ChuCui Palace Dancing in Clouds Necklace

The sense of design, apart from its application in Western aesthetics, can also create classics within traditional Chinese aesthetics. In the mid-20th century, ChuCui Palace, a high-end jewelry brand that originated from an Italian Roman jewelry family, drew inspiration from traditional Chinese freehand brushwork painting to create the classic high jewelry piece, the “Dancing in Clouds” necklace. In contrast to the black and white tones representing “nightfall” in Chanel’s Café Society collection, Dancing in Clouds derives its black and white from the purity and elegance of traditional Chinese ink painting, with the jewelry emulating the color-separation technique used in ink painting.

The most striking design aspect of the piece is the abstraction of the crane’s neck into long, flowing lines. The tail feathers are meticulously arranged with subtle curves, forming a geometric rhythm, and creating a dynamic contrast between complexity and simplicity, abstraction and representation. Additionally, the piece takes inspiration from Eastern naturalism, adopting an asymmetric composition, and allowing the tail feathers to be detachable, offering versatile wearing options for both daily and formal occasions.

The entire artwork showcases careful consideration of naturalism, abstract and refined geometric elements, simulation of ink painting, and thoughtful wearable design. It stands as a classic representation of Chinese artistry, rich with Eastern aesthetic design principles derived from a deep exploration of traditional freehand and ink painting.

Jewelry Created by Raymond Templier (Partial)

In the entire world of jewelry, Art Deco-style jewelry stands out for its emphasis on materials, mixed-media applications, and geometric design language, naturally exuding a strong sense of design. Among the notable figures in this realm is the French jewelry designer Raymond Templier, renowned for his three-dimensional Art Deco and abstract designs from the 1920s and 1930s. Drawing inspiration from everything he observed in daily life, Raymond considered elements such as cars and their components, gears, propellers, architecture, essentially all mechanical components, as materials for jewelry design. His designs skillfully juxtaposed black and white, matte and glossy finishes, and frosted and polished surfaces to create dramatically contrasting effects. In addition, his fascination with curves, semicircles, and various configurations of inverted triangles is evident, and he applied these patterns innovatively. The jewelry he crafted beautifully captures the interplay of light and volume, showcasing his unique approach to design.

In contemporary jewelry design, the sense of design is not only a distinctive hallmark of appearance but also a thoughtful expression for artists. Chanel cleverly injects the classic “tweed” pattern into high jewelry, showcasing sophistication, classicism, and exquisite design. The Café Society collection seamlessly integrates avant-garde Art Deco aesthetics with fashion, demonstrating a marvelous fusion of unique designs. ChuCui Palace’s “Dancing in Clouds” necklace ingeniously incorporates traditional Chinese freehand brushwork painting, presenting a design concept with a distinct Eastern aesthetic. Raymond Templier’s Art Deco-style jewelry, characterized by material mix and unique design, exudes a strong sense of design. These jewelry pieces are not just embodiments of beauty; they are the profound reflections of art and culture, making each one a work of art imbued with stories and emotions. On the fashion stage, contemporary jewelry continues to lead aesthetic trends with its unique design language, presenting the beauty of delicate and creative art.

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