End of an Era: The Death of Richmond Pubs
A sure sweep of gentrification and corporate ownership has left Richmond pubs bereft of soul: dark lighting and deep sticky-carpets have given way for neon lights and polished floors. What was once a suburb rich with fierce and independent charm has become washed with homogenised monstrosities — ‘tissue box’ pubs with all the appeal of a bar of soap in a share-house, but none of the character.
The Great Britain Hotel, now Harlow, sold to hospitality giant Australian Venue Company (AVC) in 2014, was described by many as one of the greatest Australian pubs of all time.
The Great Britain — or GB — was a cultural force in the 3121 postcode. From being one of the first Melbourne establishments to champion craft beer, to hosting experimental and avant-garde techno nights in its basement, the GB attracted a crowd that was as edgy and eclectic as it was welcoming.
Brian Rossi, a Richmond publican since 2003, smiles when I ask him about it.
“The GB was a very tight-knit community that became a family,” he says. “Staff as well as locals. The one thing about the GB that stood out was it was a pub that felt like your living room.”
“I used to knock off at the Terminus around 11 or so and head straight for the GB.”
“When that closed, it was bittersweet — the final night was amazing, all the love and respect people had for that venue.
Describing the gradual gentrification of Richmond pubs, Mr Rossi recalls “a lot of the pubs were going that way, the Terminus Hotel and the original Bridge Hotel.”
“Each pub back then had a unique character to it, instead of nowadays where pubs have that very generic sort of feel to them, where you can tell they’re owned by a group.”
When the GB was sold to AVC, it was a devastating blow for the Richmond drinking community.
The final song played at the GB, after an army of good friends had drunk the bar dry, was ‘Mr Piano Man.’
Shorty, a veteran Richmond drinker and pub-worker, looks over his pint with heavy eyes when I ask him if he’s seen Richmond pubs change.
“I certainly have, significantly.”
“So I think the main change would be that we’ve gone from that stereotypical Aussie pub vibe — a bit dingy, bit of character, bit old school, to just ‘gastro’.”
“I feel like most of the pubs in Richmond now, every door you step in is just identical to every other joint. There’ll be big neon signs, and patrons that aren’t from the area.”
“The community spirit in pubs in Richmond, to a certain degree is a bit dead.”
Shorty sighs, and looks back up at me nods. “It’s died.”
AVC — which purchased the GB in 2014 — now owns seven Richmond pubs, including Harlow, the Posty, Richmond Club Hotel, and Fargo & Co.
Fudge, a well-weathered barstool prophet, makes the distinction between a ‘pub’ and a ‘venue’.
“You can walk in to a pub anywhere in any country on the planet,” Fudge explains, “and if you sit at the bar long enough, you’re probably going to meet three or four people that you’ve never met in your life, and probably going to have a good conversation.”
“There are pubs and there are venues. Pubs have a sense of community, pubs are a community value. Venues are just a location, a place to get a drink.”
“Unfortunately a lot of places that are opening up around Richmond aren’t necessarily what I would consider a pub. They’re more a venue.”
Fudge now drinks at the Cherry Tree, a Cremorne pub owned by Chris and Penny Hodges — former owners of the GB — who took up the lease as the GB was being bought.
In 2022, the Cherry Tree was sold for a million dollars over the advertised asking price for $7.6 million. Former Manager Toby Kingsley adds that “no one spends that kind of money on a pub unless they’re going to do something to it and something drastic at that.”
When I ask Fudge what he’ll do when the pub changes hands in two years, he looks forlorn.
“I’m probably going to have to go outside the suburb, to be perfectly honest with ya sunshine.”
Assistant Manager of the Cherry Tree, Chris Dunn, muses on the postcodes’ current pubs.
“There are so many pubs now that are very much set up for irregular customers, for corporates and stuff like that. They’re not set up for the community, they’re set up to make money and there’s not a whole lot of heart and soul.”
“Whilst the Cherry is a bit dirty, and a bit grimy, sticky carpets and that sort of thing, it’s got real heart to it, and that’s why people come here.”
Edmund Coleman is an employee at the Cherry Tree.
