Surfing and life

December 4, 2015

The alarm went off at 6:15am, it was 45°F. Waves have been pumping all week and after having an all time session on Tuesday my confidence and excitement were pretty high watching a new swell filling in last night.

I grabbed a banana and a protein bar and headed to the garage to suit it up. When I got to the beach the waves were pretty sizable, double to triple overhead on the sets but a little jumbled up. There were only five or six guys out when I paddled out.

Soon after I got to the lineup I felt that my rhythm was off, I was going for the wrong waves and making dumb mistakes you can’t do when the waves are big.

It didn’t take long for a rogue set to come in and get me out of position breaking right on my head. I ate shit, took a massive beating, my leash broke, my board was washed out to the rocks and I had to swim several hundred yards to the shore, all that before 8am.

Today didn’t go as planned but I sure did learn a good lesson.

Can’t wait to get out tomorrow.