eileencFirst lessonI rode my bike to the beach this morning for our first surfing lesson, my backpack stuffed with towel, sunglasses, water bottle, and cash…May 6, 2018May 6, 2018
eileencBack to beginningMy first surf lesson is tomorrow — we meet in the morning at the Taco Bell parking lot. I have a partner in this venture. My friend Sue, a…Apr 24, 2018Apr 24, 2018
eileencThe functional body, challengedYou hear, sometimes, about a writer first published after starting her novel at age 53, or a songwriter achieving sudden success after…Apr 9, 2018Apr 9, 2018
eileencSunday morningSunday morning. It was low tide at the beach when I headed out for a run. I parked at the grocery lot, watching the surfers as I tied my…Apr 8, 2018Apr 8, 2018
eileencA new dance, a different seasonWhy do I want to learn to surf? So many reasons. In some ways it seems inevitable. I’ve lived by the ocean nearly my entire life. As a…Mar 18, 2018Mar 18, 2018
eileencA crack in the day where the ocean shows throughIt’s 8:00 am on a Wednesday morning and several dozen surfers are out on the water at Linda Mar Beach. The sky and the horizon are two…Mar 18, 2018Mar 18, 2018
eileencThis is what comes nextI’m sixty years old and it’s time I finally learned how to surf. I live in Pacifica, California, just south of San Francisco and fifteen…Feb 20, 2018Feb 20, 2018