A summer in Barcelona

I spent this summer in Barcelona, enjoying the siesta weather and eating way too much jamón serrano. During the summer, Barcelona is full of people seeking a warm summer city on the beach.
The downtown area is packed with tourists during the summer. You’ll find visitors from around the world (including many Spaniards). To get more of a local vibe, you’ll need to get outside the Gothic Quarter, Las Ramblas, and Beach areas that most tourists frequent.
The good: There is so much history, art, and culture to experience. It’s a relatively inexpensive European city with a lot to offer. You can find world-renowned museums and restaurants, and but also get cheap tapas or take part in street parties while drinking wine. The people are open and tolerant, so you’ll see diversity more than other European cities.
The bad: The popular areas of the city have been taken over by tourists. It’s hard to find an authentic experience during the peak travel time (Summer), and because of the high numbers of visitors there is a lot of theft. We had all of our valuables including two computers stolen from our Airbnb.

Food and drinks
Below are the restaurants I most enjoyed — ordered from expensive (fine dining) to inexpensive (tapas and street food). Spanish food can feel repetitive, especially after spending three months there, so I share a variety of cuisines.
Disfrutar: Number 18 on World’s Top Restaurants this year, this is a culinary experience that rivals the best. Expect to do a tasting menu with lots of wine and interesting food.
ABaC: This 3 Michelin Star restaurant is set in a beautiful hotel, with a garden surrounding the dining area. It’s pricey, but one of my favorite meals I’ve had at a Michelin rated restaurant. If you don’t want to do the full set of wine pairings, the Sommelier can recommend options by the glass.
Tickets: Number 32 on World’s Top Restaurants this year, this restaurant is both a culinary and experiential dinner. You’ll try tapas style service and ingredients, mixed with an energetic environment. It was my favorite take on the traditional Spanish bocadillo with jamón.
Passadis del Pep: This high-end tapas restaurant will give you spanish tapas with white table service. It’s located in the Born neighborhood, more of a local vibe but right in the middle of the city.
Spoonik: A full dining experience, this chef invites you into his home for a full menu and wine pairings. You’ll be welcomed with champagne in the front lawn, ate amazing local food, and had a live opera singer to break up the meal! When you make a reservation, scroll down the website to find the chef’s home restaurant experience.
Suculent: This traditional tapas restaurant only has set a set menu, so be prepared to eat a big meal and try whatever is served in front of you. They also have an impressive list of local wines.
Bar Canete: Another high-end tapas restaurant, but a menu that you can order a-la-carte. Try the burrata as a starter, we ended up ordering another plate because it was so delicious!
La Taberna del Clinic: Simple traditional tapas, not too expensive but still a nice restaurant experience.
El Nacional: This open-air market-style warehouse is beautiful. There are several restaurants and bars throughout the venue, but make sure to make reservations available. Bring your Instagram face, because you’ll take lots of pictures of this chic space.
The W: If you go to the beach, you won’t be able to miss this big glass building that looks like a sail. It sits right on the edge of the sea, so it’s perfect for grabbing a glass of sangria by the pool and watching the waves roll by.
Can Cisa: A cute wine bar with a large selection of local wines. Tell them what you like, and they will find a bottle that you’ve probably never tried. They also have food, but I always stuck to wine.
Meneghina: This was my favorite restaurant we went to (several times), and it’s Italian food! They have amazing homemade pasta and bread, a great wine list, and excellent service. It feels like a local neighborhood spot because of it’s understated location.
Bistro Levante: Located in a secluded plaza away from the noise of Las Ramblas, this mediterranean restaurant has fresh and delicious food, tea, and local wine.
Can Ros: In the neighborhood by the beach, this restaurant has delicious Paella and a laid-back feel. Try the squid-ink paella if you like seafood and rich flavors.
Cal Pinxo: Located right on the beach, you can’t get a better view with your meal. Sit outside on the patio if the weather is nice, or upstairs if you want a full ocean view without the sand. They serve fish fillets with vegetables, a nice break if you’re looking for something fresh from the sea. It is one of the only beach restaurants where we spotted as many locals as visitors!
Xiringuito Escriba: Another beach establishment, this is the place to go for paella. The servings are huge, so be sure to arrive with a full stomach. You’ll definitely want to make a reservation ahead of time.
Bodega Els Surtidors del Parlament: Find affordable wine, tapas, and vermouth at this authentic restaurant. This was one of my favorite places for happy hour or a tapas-style dinner.
Taller de Tapas: There are several chains of tapas restaurants in the city, but this one was my favorite. There are locations all over the city, it’s pretty affordable, and the quality of food and wine is high. Good for a casual evening. By favorite location is in Placa del Pi in the Gothic Quarter.

Coffee, tea, pastries
There are many options for a tasty café, but here are my favorites. I ordered them from trendy to traditional.
Satan’s coffee corner: Very hipster, located in a small plaza in the Gothic Quarter. There are many rules — no wifi, no decaf, no strollers, etc. But, the flat white with oat milk is one of the best I’ve had. Try the Japanese-style breakfast when you’re sick of Spanish food.
Nomad Coffee: Down a tiny passage in the Ciutat Vella, this coffee bar has creamy cappuccinos and pastries. It’s a small location that is only open on weekdays, so don’t expect a sit-down experience.
Caraval: This restaurant and cafe has a trendy vibe in the buzzing neighborhood of El Raval. Arrive early to get a seat, and watch the people go by. There are also several good stores for shopping on the corner.
Black Remedy: Another modern coffee shop, this one serves food, coffee, and tea. Order and pay at the counter, and enjoy the big seating area. You can stay for a while to read or work on your laptop at this location.
Federal coffee: There are two locations for this coffee shop. This one is located near the marina, a spot where you can sit for a while.
Onna Cafe: Get out of the crowds and up to the neighborhood of Grácia. Stop by for a matcha latte or coffee, and then wander around this more residential area with cute shops.
Cafe Libro Born: Navigate to this café to find yourself in a cute area of town, with lots of winding streets and workshops to shop in. Sit and grab a drink an a pastry, then walk around the area.
Caelum: You’ll feel like you dropped back in time at this historical establishment. Sit down to try some coffee and toasts, or pick some pastries from the back to go if you can’t stay.

Things to do
You will find no shortage of tourist attractions in this art-inspired city. I recommend planning only one attraction to visit per day, and just walk around and enjoy the city the rest of the time. The list starts with museums and indoor options, and ends with more parks and outdoor spots. Make reservations for all museums ahead of time! (For the most popular spots, we suggest timing the tickets for opening time to avoid the crowds.)
Sagrada Familia: The church that is still under construction is one of the most popular tourist attractions — but it is worth the visit! Be sure to do the audio tour so you get the full history.
Casa Batlló: Originally a private residence, this is now a museum where you’ll see more of Gaudí’s work.
La Pedrera: Another previous private residence designed by Gaudí, this apartment complex has sculptures on the roof worth the wait.
Parc Guell: Another must-see tourist attraction, this was once intended as a modern neighborhood for the wealthy. Now it’s an outdoor museum where you can see more of Gaudí’s work.
Picasso Museum: A museum devoted to Picasso. Do the audio tour to learn his history of growing up in Barcelona.
Museum of Contemporary Art: See modern art in a beautiful building. Enter the museum to see art, or even just sit outside on the steps with a glass of wine to enjoy the view.
Passeig del Born: Go to this plaza for shopping, food, and nightlife. You can visit the Born Centre de Cultura to learn about the deep history of the neighborhood and history of the local residents.
Montjuic: Take the gondola from the beach up to the seaside mountain. Visit the castle at the top, or just bring a bottle of wine and take in the views of the vast city!
Sail the Mediterranean: Book a sailing trip for a few hours. We did this several times when friends were in town, it’s a great way to get out of the city and see it from a different vantage point. Bring your own food and wine and make a happy hour on the water.
Sitges: Take a quick day trip to the beach town of Sitges. During the summer it can be crowded, so get there early to save a spot on the sand. Wander around the old town and get some dinner before taking the train back to Barcelona.
Montserrat: Go to the idillic mountain town where monks reside. The views from the town are breath-taking. You could stay the night at one of the hostels, or just take a tour for the day.

