Everything You Need to Know About Coco Chanel Jewelry

Eric Originals & Antiques Ltd
8 min readJan 16, 2023

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The atmosphere of mystique that Chanel was able to build around her name and her work still surrounds them now. For the most of the 20th century, Coco Chanel was known as the “couturiiere extraordinaire.” Coco Chanel was one of the first couturiers to be recognized for her elegant aesthetic and flawless creations. She was also ambitious, creative, and attractive.

Chanel, who was almost self-taught and was raised in an orphanage, soon expanded from a little shop to a famous fashion brand with locations in Paris, Deauville, Biarritz, and London.

Coco Chanel was raised in a modest, not particularly wealthy home. The designer’s parents, Eugénie “Jeanne” Devolle and Albert Chanel, were both seamstresses. She had grown up with exposure to the fundamentals of fashion. Gabrielle Chanel’s first six years of life were spent in an orphanage run by the Catholic church. Little Gabrielle Chanel spent her early years in an orphanage before enrolling at Notre-Dame College in Moulins to study sewing.

Coco Chanel performs her first public song in the café Moulins La Rotonde when she is 18 years old. The young woman soon gets a new job working in a fabric shop at Maison Grampayre, but she keeps on performing there, earning the nickname “Coco” from her fans.

At the age of 25, Coco Chanel encounters a strong and well-known guy who will permanently alter her life. She is housed at one of the many properties owned by Baron Etienne Balsan, a descendant of a textile dynasty. She eventually earns the title of his mistress. Coco Chanel starts making hats for herself as well as for her love of textiles and the variety of textures she has access to. The French aristocracy would be intrigued by the young artist’s innovative thoughts because they would move them so deeply. The initially recreational activity would eventually develop into a small business.

Chanel Jewelry, Fragrances, And Clothing

She began her fashion industry debut in 1908 as a hat designer. Soon after, she realized she also has the ability to foresee the requirements and preferences of women at the moment.

The Baron’s Parisian homes’ ground floor saw the opening of a Chanel store a year later. They soon became devoted to Chanel’s works at the Balasan estate, where the French aristocracy of the day gathered. The artist first encountered Arthur Chapel at this occasion, who saw in her right away a talented artist and a creative soul. In 1910, he assisted her in moving her business to 21 Rue Cambon in Paris, where a tailoring shop had already been established.

Chanel opened two more stores in Deauville and Biarritz in 1913 and 1915, respectively.

She also started a perfume company in 1921 because she believed floral and musk-based scents were becoming dated. Chemist Ernest Beaux uses fermented sugar and aldehydes to make a synthetic scent. The chemist works closely with Coco Chanel to create a wide range of scents. The perfumes are in bottles labeled 1 to 5 and 20 to 24. The fifth option was chosen, and it has been known as “Chanel No 5” ever since.

The artist also created jewelry, to which she later, in 1929, added components. Accessories including scarves, belts, bracelets, bags, jewelry, and shoes are all part of the completely revamped brand. In order to complete the minimalist look and add contrast to the clothing, jewelry was essential. Later, the workshop at 21 Rue Cambon became the main attraction for women who wanted to stay current with fashion.

Few women do not know how to wear jewelry, according to a quote from Coco Chanel.

Jewels were always lavishly cherished by her, and she regarded them as just as essential to seduction as perfume.

The Duke of Westminster and Indian princes sent Chanel exquisite jewelry, but Chanel just admired it because she preferred to wear her own creations when she went out. She always wore two pieces of jewelry: an elegant woman gave her a topaz ring as a talisman when she was sixteen, and Arthur Capel gave her a lovely pearl necklace as a token of his love.

Fashion was changed by Coco Chanel by upgrading jewelry. Before Coco Chanel made jewelry popular, wealthy and influential women never considered wearing it. The master created must-have accessories that were stylish and economically priced.

Designer Earrings

For an increasing market, Chanel aimed to create apparel and whimsical jewelry that lay midway between ostentatious luxury goods and low-cost costume jewelry. This has developed into a distinctive and prosperous area of the fashion industry thanks to her visionary direction.

Chanel Earrings
Chanel Earrings

At the turn of the century, Paris was the center of the world’s high-end, avant-garde jewelry industry. The Decorative Arts show presented the color trend and the return of diamonds in 1925; the Palais Galliera exposition in 1929 celebrated the triumph of the diamond and its “white note.” In 1924, Chanel founded her jewelry company and handed Count Etienne de Beaumont ownership. She occasionally mixed real and artificial stones together to make jewelry.

To combat the financial crisis, she and Paul Iribe prepared a magnificent presentation of genuine diamond jewelry in 1932. After that, she resumed creating artificial objects with the assistance of collaborators including Fulco di Verdura and Francois Hugo. Her technicians, especially Madame Gripoix, were able to execute nearly all of the projects thanks to modern cutting and mounting techniques.

Bracelet by Chanel

She drew inspiration from a wide range of exotic, Oriental, and Egyptian sources. In 1922, the complete Tutankhamun tomb and its incredible cache were found. She preferred the lavish gems of Byzantium and the Renaissance jewels of the Medici, a time when most artists were trained in expensive metalwork. She once pondered, “Why is it that everything I produce turns Byzantine?”

Bracelet by Chanel
Bracelet by Chanel

She viewed the glittering mosaics of Ravenna that depict Empress Theodora standing in splendor and donning a gold crown studded with strings of pearls, as well as the renowned treasure in Munich, the most valuable collection of jewels in all of Europe.

Written records inform us that wealthy inhabitants of Constantinople occasionally left their actual jewels — made of gold, pearls, diamonds, and enamel — at home for security and instead wore imitations made of gilt bronze.

The Sicilian nobleman Fulko di Verdura designed fabrics for Chanel in Paris from 1929 to 1937 before establishing himself as a jeweler in New York. He recreated a craft heritage from his country of origin and focused on enamel bracelets.

She also had jewelry designed for her by Francois Hugo, Jean’s brother and the head of the Asnieres hosiery firm. I requested Francois Hugo to sketch some of my ideas for earrings, clips, brooches, and other types of costume jewelry since I was getting tired of the jewelry created by professionals. These designs are similar to those that can be seen today in the Palais Royal’s galleries and beneath the arches of the Rue de Rivoli.

Chanel Pendant

Sparkling diamonds were Chanel’s way of expressing her love of comets, stars, and the lights of the Champs-Elysees. Diadems, crescent- and star-shaped brooches, ribbons, and fringes gleam in the hair, and necklaces made of moire ribbons glimmer on the decollete.

Chanel Pendant

The exhibition cases with indirect illumination that protected the incredible collection mirror the faces of the beautiful visitors. These jewels, which were cut in their natural condition and had concealed mounts and clasps, were based on the knot, star, and feather motifs and could be divided into different pieces to create other accessories. For instance, a necklace could be converted into three bracelets and a hat brooch.

The way Chanel wore the jewels, rather than the jewellery itself, was what made it appear modern.

2013 saw the introduction of the “Under the sign of the lion” collection and the declaration that the bas-relief lion on the Basilica of San Marco in Venice would be restored.

In addition to tweed suits, Chanel offered all the many kinds of accessories she worn on a daily basis when she made her reappearance in 1954. Chanel created unique pieces that were experiments in coming up with the one ideal item, whether it was a flower, a hair bow, or a shoe, in contrast to other designers who believed that accessories completed a silhouette or enhanced a decorative effect. Instead than displaying a large number of fresh pieces each season, she occasionally expanded her working vocabulary.

Goldsmith Robert Goossens, a new partner, and Gripoix created Chanel jewelry in the 1950s and 1960s that included replicas of pieces she had worn for years. Her home become elegant in appearance after Chanel’s death in 1971.

Karl Lagerfeld transformed not only the House of Chanel but also the entire fashion industry when he joined in 1983 as a creative director. The Lagerfeld for Chanel high-wire act is at its most stunning when it contrasts the traditional with the contemporary, giving even another paradoxical layer to the narrative. The influence of Chanel has grown even more under Lagerfeld’s leadership, becoming the newest logo adored and loved by young people and hip-hop celebrities alike.

How To Recognize Genuine Chanel Jewelry

There will be markings on several pieces of Chanel costume jewellery. Recognizing these indications is crucial for authentication as it will show when the object was manufactured and its past.

From 1921 until 1939, items were created to go with Chanel’s apparel. These incredibly uncommon pieces were hence left unmarked; some just have the word “France” stamped on them. Due to World War II, The House of Chanel ceased operations in 1939.

1930s: Coco Chanel

Jewelry from the 1930s that Chanel Novelty Company produced in 1941 is highly expensive. These accessories have their own particular beauty and craftsmanship, and the Chanel Novelty Company’s aesthetic was very different from Chanel’s. For blatant trademark violation, Coco Chanel filed a lawsuit against them and won. Reinad Novelty Company had to take the place of Chanel Novelty Company.

1940s Coco Chanel Novelty Mark

In 1954, Coco Chanel opened her store at 31 Rue Cambon in Paris once more. Since Chanel jewellery was still being created as a component of a complete couture ensemble at the time, many pieces from this era were left unstamped. However, some jewellery began to have relatively simple stamps.

60s Coco Chanel

As a result of Coco Chanel’s passing, jewellery stamping evolved. A copyright, trademark, interlocking CC, and made in France stamp were also imprinted on several pieces of jewellery.

1970s Coco Chanel

Chanel 1970 Early in the 1980s, the manufacture date was included into the stamping, leading to many items having a year in place of “made in France.”

80s Coco Chanel

Chanel used the collection number to date the jewellery between the mid-1980s and the early 1990s. Collection digits range from 23 to 29.

90s Coco Chanel

The jewellery displays the season and year from 1993 to 2018. A for fall, P for spring, C for cruise collecting, and V for a continuous line are some of the season markers. The figures stand for the third and fourth digits of the year. 95, for instance, refers to 1995, and 03, to 2003.

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