Peru la la, you guys.
Peru is the perfect choose-your-own-adventure destination. Its range of biodiversity, cuisines, culture, and natural wonders is massive. You can surf in the Pacific or hike 17,000 feet above sea level. You can eat freshly caught ceviche or one of its 4,500 types of potatoes. You can sleep among the astounding Inca ruins or in a pastel colonial Spanish casa. And with its ~3 sol/dollar conversion rate, the possibilities of what you can do while on a Peru trip are basically only bound by time.
That said, time is a real bitch. We tried to jam as much as we could into our 12 non-travel days, but we didn’t even scratch the surface of all that Peru has to offer. I’ll try to boil down what I know down here, drawing on personal experiences and tips shared with us while travel planning.

Planning
When to Travel
Peru’s winter is in our summer, so May-Sept are on the “colder” side. This is dry season rain-wise and high season Machu Picchu-wise. Our Inca Trail guide told us the trail shuts down in North American wintertime, but the internet is telling that’s not true (except maybe in Feb for repairs). Unclear. PRO TIPS ARE OFF TO A GREAT START. Moral of the story is travel when you want, but maybe ask Siri some questions before booking that flight.
Reservations
If you’re looking to hike to Machu Picchu, a permit is required. A permit is not required if you only plan to take the bus up to Machu Picchu. We did the 4-day, 3-night Inca Trail hike during high season. It’s not guaranteed that there will be availability when you’re booking, especially during high season, so SECURE A TREK PRIOR TO BOOKING A FLIGHT. We booked 6 months before our trek’s start date thinking that was early, but we were actually on the later end. There’s a handy document out there that updates the number of permits available in real-time. More on our personal trek experience later.
As for restaurant reservations, Peru’s food is top notch. If you want to eat at some of the world’s Top 50 restaurants, RESERVE EARLY. This applies to Central, Maido, and Astrid y Gastón. Other reservations are easier to come by closer to your trip.
Booking Flights
Do you, boo. We flew COPA Airlines via Panama City, which seems to be a common way to do it. The Hopper App was also really helpful for tracking when prices would be most reasonable.
Visas/Vaccines
No visa needed. Update your passport if necessary. Vaccines included typhoid fever, yellow fever, and Hep A. One of the vaccines (typhoid or yellow fever, not Hep A) is not typically covered by insurance and is like $100, which was a fun surprise. I opted out of that one. A common side effect of it is vomiting, which then negates the $100 you just swallowed. Also, it’s supposedly only necessary if you’re traveling to the Amazon, which was not on our itinerary. Don’t @ me if you get feverish!

Packing
Regular Clothes
Chances are you’ll be visiting multiple regions on your trip. Peru’s climate is no joke. On the same day, it can be tank-top weather in one part of the country and winter-coat weather in another. Plan to experience different temperatures. The North American winter months are Peru’s rainy season. We packed beanies and swim suits in August, both of which we used on the trip.
Hiking Gear
Get a solid hiking backpack. Hiking shoes are critical, as is breaking them in prior to leaving on your trip. REI employees are pros at casually mentioning the perils of wearing the wrong boots on a long hike. Hiking socks are important, too. Smartwool socks and thin liners are ideal. You’ll want at least a couple pairs. You’ll also be so pissed (and wet) if you don’t have waterproof pants and a hooded raincoat. Otherwise, the best advice is to bring several layers so you can handle any temp you come across.
I was also sent a multi-page manifesto on the importance of hiking poles. Happy to pass that along, but moral of the story is just to rent poles through your trekking company. Chances are they will also supply sleeping bags, sleeping pads, tents, etc. Extra plastic bags and Ziploc baggies are helpful to store dirty clothes or to keep items from getting soaked in the event of rain.
Miscellaneous
Peru’s outlets are weird. They often accept American plugs, but some only take European ones. Converters/adapters will likely come in handy. Also, if you’re like me and the idea of being #unplugged makes you anxious, investing in a heavy duty phone charging case lets you rest easy. And don’t forget prescription altitude pills (Diamox).

Eating
Try everything. Peru is a food-forward country that has seemingly perfected its agricultural skills over several centuries. The Incas carved fucking farming terraces into mountains in their quest to get that A+ in Agriculture 101 (JK slaves did this, sorry for stating the obvious).
For a more traditionally Peruvian culinary moment, opt for these menu items:
- Ceviche is mind-blowing here. Menus literally change throughout the day because the restaurants only work with the freshest fish available at that moment.
- Cuy is guinea pig, and it’s named after the sound a guinea pig makes. So, there’s that. I was not a fan of mine, but Peruvians are all about it. Try it.
- Alpaca is great — super tender red meat, almost like lamb or veal. Very low cholesterol is a nice bonus.
- Potatoes are extra AF in Peru. They literally have over 4,500 types. So unnecessary yet so necessary. Carpe diem.
- Quinoa is apparently originally from Peru. LMK in the comments if you knew this or not!
- Pisco is a delicious Peruvian liquor. Pisco sour is a sweet, citrusy cocktail. Chilca is an almost margarita-like, pisco-based drink.
- Chicha morada is a purple corn drink. HIGHLY recommend. I’ve only had it non-alcoholic, but don’t let that stop you from living your best life.

Lima
We got a lot of “skip Lima” advice. It’s crowded (13 million people), hard to get around (public transit isn’t convenient and traffic is a nightmare), and generally not considered a top South American city to spend your time in — THEY SAID. We heeded our friends’ advice and minimized our time in Lima: 2 days, 2 nights.
Sorry dudes, I liked it. The food is BOMB. The catacombs are CUTE. The Pacific Oceanscape is CUTER. Traffic really does SUCK. We spent 100% of our time in the Miraflores, Barranco, or downtown Lima neighborhoods.
Where to Stay
Miraflores or Barranco. The neighborhoods border one another and are on the Pacific. They are very walkable and have a safe reputation. They’re lush with plant life and are extra colorful thanks to mucho street art. They have some of the world’s best restaurants here.
We used hotel points and stayed at the Crowne Plaza in Miraflores. No idea how much this costs sans points, but it was great. Central location and a comfy bed. A friend recommends Villa Barranco in Barranco. Hostels are also popular and commonly offer private rooms/bathrooms. No clue about the Airbnb scene.
What to Do
Explore the Miraflores and Barranco neighborhoods. Pop into the shops. In Miraflores, walk on the park along the cliffs. Beautiful views of the ocean, a lot of locals and their dogs, a poppin’ skate park, and some must-see artwork/cultural sites. In Barranco, don’t miss out the street art on Bajada de los Baños. Truly. It also leads to the Bridge of Sighs which is a must-see. This area is a tourist trap, but it’s 100% worth it.
We did a free walking tour of historic sites and the city center. This will likely be a bit out of the way from where you’ll stay. There are many tour company options, and it seems silly to recommend a company based on one guide experience, so good luck. This part of town was nice to see, but if you need to cut out an activity, here’s a solid option.
We dipped out early during the walking tour, because we fell in love with the Basilica and Convent of San Francisco. Also downtown, this is a church that looks big and plain from the outside, but on the inside it’s gooorgeous. Its Moorish design includes bold colors, geometric shapes, painted tiles, and the sexiest library for ghosts. Plus catacombs! A lot of can’t-miss skull art in the basement. Watch your head.
As for bars/clubs, we only went out one night. I don’t remember where. Was fun but not worth writing home about. Barranco on the weekend is supposedly the place to be. Check out Ayahuasca and Dada. In Miraflores, check out Huaringas, La Huaca Pullcana, and BarBarian.
Other recommendations: Visit the museums (Larco and LUM were top on our list, but timing didn’t work out). A surf lesson in the Pacific could be a really cute moment for you around Nov-Feb.
Where to Eat
Go all out. Lima has 3 of the world’s 50 best restaurants, 2 of which are in the Top 10. It also has a strong Gastón Acurio presence, a celebrity chef with several types of restaurants throughout Peru. There are also vegan options on this list in case you’re into that sort of thing.
- Central is the 6th best restaurant in the world. We ate a 16-course lunch here. The menu is extraordinarily creative, and the flavor range is out of this world. The concept of it is that each dish takes you through a different region of Peru, with ingredients sourced from one specific altitude. There’s a great Chef’s Table episode on Netflix that covers this in detail. Dinner is the same menu, but I highly recommend doing lunch. Central moved to a new space mid-2018 that is the perfect daytime experience. The dining room is open, full of windows, and is designed in essentially exclusively natural materials. The whole space is gorgeous, and you have a direct view into the mad scientist’s lab/kitchen. They were also great with dietary restrictions, going so far as to make a full-vegan 16-courser for my friend. This was maybe the best meal I’ve ever had, and I don’t say that hyperbolically.
- Maido is the 7th best restaurant in the world. My sister ate here, not me. Review is Central-level positive. Japanese-Peruvian fusion tasting menu, with a strong focus on seafood. We opted out, because they were pretty upfront about not being vegan-friendly.
- Astrid y Gastón is the 33rd best restaurant in the world. This is considered the best restaurant from Gastón Acurio, the aforementioned celebrity chef. My sister ate here, not me. She liked it a lot.
- La Mar is Acurio’s ceviche spot. We ate at the Miraflores location, then started our walk along the ocean-side park nearby. You can’t really go wrong with ceviche in Lima, but this is a fancier option that’s definitely worth the stop. Lively space, too. They made a dumb/tasty mushroom ceviche for my vegan friend. Ugh.
- Madam Tusan is Acurio’s chifa spot. Chifa is Chinese-Peruvian fusion that’s super popular throughout Peru. Chifa gets two thumbs up from me, but this place wasn’t worth it. Good food, but we were paying mainly for the ambiance, which resembled a P.F. Chang’s. If interested in chifa, look for a highly rated, low-key option on TripAdvisor.
- Other recommendations: La 73, any sushi (check out Osaka in the San Isidro neighborhood), Edo for a cheaper meal in Miraflores, Veda in Miraflores for a vegan spot that even a carnivore would enjoy.

Cusco
Great vibes. The city is much smaller than Lima and resembles a mountain town in the dessert. It’s essentially mandatory to visit if you’re doing any Machu Picchu trek. At 11,000 feet above sea level, it’s the perfect spot to get acclimated to the high altitude and avoid serious problems during your hike.
PLEASE NOTE that the acclimation period is no joke. Altitude sickness can happen to anyone regardless age, weight, fitness level, etc. It can occur on one trip but not on the next, identical trip. Get some Diamox (altitude pills) from your doctor. Take part in the coca culture (e.g. teas, mints, candies), even if it’s a total placebo effect. Stay hydrated, and don’t drink alcohol while acclimating.
Where to Stay
It only really makes sense to stay in the city center, as close to main plaza (Plaza de Armas) as possible. We stayed at the Gaia House Hostel in a private room with a private bathroom. Highly recommend this place. Spacious rooms, extra blankets/towels/blow-dryers available upon request, free breakfast. It’s quiet, too, which we wanted since our time in Cusco was full of early wake-up calls.
Others vetted recommendations: Cusco Packers Hostel is another hostel options. If you prefer a hotel, check out Palacio del Inka.
What to Do
If you allocate 3–5 days to Cusco, you won’t be disappointed. So much personality and a complete 180 from cosmopolitan Lima. Very hilly yet walkable city littered with the stunning architectural remains of the Inca people, along with Spanish influences from the ~*~Inquisition days~*~
Take a free walking tour through the city center on your first day in Cusco. This is probably the most activity you’ll be able to handle on Day 1. This was our favorite of the walking tours in Peru. There’s something at every turn, and you’ll learn/see plenty of new things.
Do some day trips. We did a couple, all booked through our hostel a couple days in advance. Our hostel did an excellent job and made sure we were notified when we were getting picked up or if the itinerary changed before our activity. Note that these are paid tours.
- Check out the sacred Inca ruins. Which ruins your trip takes you on is dependent on the tour provider/what you’re interested in seeing. We saw Ollantaytampo, Chiceros, and Pisac on ours. Enjoyed it.
- Rainbow Mountain is exactly what it sounds like. Be careful, though. This is one of the highest elevations you’ll hit on the entire trip (17,000 ft) and can be super taxing because of this. This hike was one of the most rewarding parts of our entire trip. We were drained, but the views were spectacular. Pics not too shabby, either, mi amigos.
- Other day trips include: Sacsayhuaman (read: sexy woman), Nazca Lines (fields of massive line drawings of inexplicable origin), Maras salt mines (huge salt-filled plots of land connected through channels).
Go to museums. Our favorite was the Pre-Columbian Art Museum. It was a great place to see Inca artifacts that helped set the stage for what we were going to see on our trek/throughout Peru. Machu Picchu Museum is supposed to be good. So is Qorikancha/Convento Santo Domingo, which is a church built on Inca temples and has strong personality.
Stroll through the San Blas neighborhood. Great for shopping and food, plus has a little market nearby.
Check out the San Pedro Market for souvenirs and food. Be aware that the alpaca gear you’ll find in places like this is not high quality. High quality is baby alpaca, which is pretty expensive. The markets/roadside stands sell an adult alpaca/synthetic mix. I knowingly bought the cheap stuff: a couple blankets, a sweater, and a scarf. Won’t last forever, but cost <$50 total.
Take a cooking class. There are several solid options if you’re interested, ranging from ceviche-making to something all-vegan.
The Cusco Planetarium was my sister’s #1 recommendation. Supposed to be the perfect activity on a clear night — plenty of stars and constellations that you maybe possibly can’t see in the Northern Hemisphere.
Where to Eat
Cusco is perfect for, but not limited to, more traditional Peruvian food. Try alpaca and cuy (guinea pig) while you’re here.
- Nuna Raymi was my favorite restaurant in Cusco. It’s right off Plaza de Armas, is full of greenery, and has a solid Peruvian menu. There’s also a little market where you can buy some products. Had alpaca and cuy here. Their chicha morada is tops too.
- Creperia la Bo’M in San Blas was the best brunch I had all trip. Located in a lovely hostel, the space is bohemian, cozy, and colorful. Think Destiny’s Child pillow room from MTV Cribs. The menu had plenty of sweet and savory crepes, plus many non-crepe brunch options. The drinks included smoothies, tea, coffee, juices, and kombucha.
- Papacho’s is Gastón Acurio’s burger joint. Fun/tasty burgers and big drink menu in a rock ’n’ roll setting. Right on Plaza de Armas.
- Chicha is Acurio’s fancier Cusco option. Traditionally Peruvian. Menu looked great and several friends really enjoyed it.
- Churro Bar & Vegan Bakery is all vegan, but don’t let that stop you. Great for a midday snack.
- Other vetted recommendations: Inka Zuela, Pachapapa, Italian food at La Osteria, and American-style breakfast at JC’s Cafe. Green Point Vegan in San Blas and Vida Vegan Bistro near Plaza de Armas are both fully vegan, but you’d never know.

Inca Trail
We opted for the 4-day, 3-night Inca Trail Trek via Salkantay Trekking. I can’t recommend this company enough. Here’s my completely honest, completely glowing TripAdvisor review of our experience. It was ranked #2 out of nearly 1,000 options on TripAdvisor when we booked. They provide all the standard premium perks: English-speaking guide, a chef, porters to carry tents/supplies/certain belongings, flexibility with dietary restrictions, rentable sleeping bags/sleeping pads/hiking poles.
What Else You Can Do
Our friends really enjoyed their Inca Trail Trek via Alpaca Expeditions, the #1 option on TripAdvisor. I’m sure you can’t go wrong with a top provider. However, the Inca Trail is only one of the ways to get to Machu Picchu. Another option is the Salktantay Trail, which is a bit more taxing from what I hear. You can also not hike and instead take a bus up to Machu Picchu. This option is fine if you’re in a time crunch, but you really miss out on the full experience. Plus, the line for the bus is a guaranteed multi-hour wait that literally starts at 3:30am. I highly recommend doing a trek, even if it is for just 2 days, 1 night.
Miscellaneous Pro-Tips
Your trek will likely not include hiking Huayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain. THIS IS DIFFERENT FROM MACHU PICCHU CITY, which you’ll definitely see. These hikes require booking in advance, so check with your tour provider to ensure you can do this if interested. We booked a bit late then ultimately weren’t able to make it due to timing limitations.
Check out the hot springs in Aguas Calientes. This is the town that you will spend time in after doing Machu Picchu. The town is literally named “hot springs,” and the experience is quite relaxing… several hot pools set against the lush Andes mountains with a bartender that delivers you drinks while you soak.
Try chicha, which is fermented corn beer. Be cautious, as it’s known to cause diarrhea, but no one told us that until later. We were just fine.
Hiking poles are most helpful on the downhill walks.
Ask all the questions. Your guide will probably be able to answer each one. Guides are required to study for tourism for several years before leading treks. They are quite impressive.

Arequipa
Arequipa is the 2nd most populous city in Peru, after Lima. But while Lima has ~11 million people, Arequipa is only a fraction of that at ~1 million people. The city is distinctly Spanish in its architecture and culture. It’s not a must-see city while in Peru, but we were very grateful to have chosen to unwind here after the Inca Trail trek.
Where to Stay
The only recommendation I have is the Arequipay Backpackers Downtown Hostel. Our private room didn’t come with a private bathroom. That was annoying, but the rest of the hostel made up for it. There’s free breakfast, a very welcoming crowd, plenty of unique hangout spaces (patio sets, hammocks, billiards room, TV room, library, tables, etc.), and it’s in a convenient/quiet location.
What to Do
The most popular activity is a 1- or 2-day Colca Canyon trek. It’s supposed to be hard but worth it, plus you see all these condors, the world’s 2nd largest flighted bird. Our schedule didn’t allow for this, unfortunately.
Monastery of Santa Catalina de Siena is worth devoting time to. It’s a working convent that is basically a city-within-a-city in Arequipa. The grounds are spectacularly colorful and full of plants. Its history is just as interesting as the grounds themselves, so spring for a guide. Check to see if they offer the candlelit nighttime experience on the day you plan to visit.
We. Went. White. Water. Rafting. You. Should. Too. We did this through Cusipata Rafting and booked via our hostel. We signed no waivers, were provided wetsuits and some quick rafting instructions, drove to the rockiest waters, and jumped in. Super exhilarating, very worth it. For ~$10, you’ll receive all the pics/videos taken by the cameraperson the company uses.
There’s also a museum that houses a ~700 year-old mummy named Juanita. She was sacrificed to the gods on a mountain, preserved after a volcanic eruption, and now remains frozen in a block of ice for all to see. It’s quite a sight. A little freaky.
We didn’t care for the free historic center walking tour here, but that’s just our experience.
Once again, can’t recommend too many bars/clubs. We drank plenty, but mainly at random places that had a nice ambiance. We also did karaoke at a place called Carusso. It’s very Peruvian, so don’t expect them to doo-doo-doo along with your rendition of “Semi-Charmed Life” like I did.
Where to Eat
We ate wherever looked good in Arequipa and didn’t focus too much on the cuisine. We were able to try a bunch of super tasty options.
- Hatunpa is a can’t-miss lunch spot. #1 reco. You order a dish with up to 7 different types of Peruvian potatoes then top it with the meat, veggies, and sauces of your choice. The owner is a personable, friendly guy, too.
- Las Gringas is a cute pizza place where you can sit in a secluded, vibrant courtyard. We loved it.
- Chaqchao is a cafe/bakery in the same complex as Las Gringas. Great sweets, great coffee, has other items. Good for breakfast, lunch, or a snack.
- You can eat at some Gastón Acurio spots here, too. Chicha has an Arequipa location, as well as Tanta. Both are traditionally Peruvian.
- Other vetted recommendations: Dimas for a nicer Peruvian meal, and Chifa Mandarin for Chifa (Chinese-Peruvian fusion).

Other Places
Like I said, we only skimmed the surface of what you can do with your time in Peru. This list is not even close to covering a fraction of your options, but here is what we put the most consideration into doing:
- Go to the Amazon. The rainforest was really tempting, but did not fit into our schedule. Plus, we were a little overwhelmed by the idea of devoting so much time to multi-day guided tours
- Hang out on Lake Titicaca. You can have a couple different Titicaca experiences. One is more luxurious with private villas and 5-star service. The other is more touristy and cheap, but hey, you’re on a lake. Activities range from spa to standard lake stuff.
- Visit another country. Bolivia and Ecuador seemed to be the most realistic here.

