Not a Tourist Crowded Destination — Terracina, Italy
Terracina, a beautiful town South of Rome is where Rome’s locals go to get away from all the hustle and bustle of the city. And here’s why.
The town with a population of just over 45,000 people has the relaxed vibe a big city dweller might want to enjoy for a weekend but it still has things like… well, wifi or somewhere to get a blowdryer if you forgot yours. The town keeps its Italian authenticity because it isn’t polluted by tourists the way bigger cities might be. I was lucky enough to call Terracina my home for 5 months and I’m going to share with you what it is about this sea-side town that stole my heart.
THE SCENERY
First of all, it’s beautiful. It’s a coastal city so the beach is in walking distance almost everywhere you go. I say almost because the rest of the city sits up on a mountain. So even if you can’t reach the water by foot, chances are you’re looking at it from above. I made friends while there and lucky me, one of them had a cottage overlooking the coast. I am not kidding about the view. Yes, that’s me giving my mother a heart attack. The beauty and tranquility in the scenery here is why so many people from Rome choose to have vacation homes in Terracina.
Terracina, like a lot of things in Italy has a rich history and buildings that scream Roman Empire. You’ll find ruins dating back to 100 BC.
The main plaza decorated with flowers and palm trees has restaurants, music performers, and a powerful (almost intimidating) looking cathedral.
In all my time there, it’s hard to remember there being any rain. It’s a town that averages 30 degrees Celsius (86F) throughout the summer and the Terracinese sun made me the darkest I have ever been to this day. (Although I’m sure the daily beach-bumming is what really did the trick).
THE FOOD
Sea-towns almost always go hand in hand with seafood. And Italy goes hand in hand with passion for cuisine. So you can imagine what that may mean for a place like Terracina. Fish and seafood are so fresh it will be unlike anything you’ve had before. You have the option of going to a pretentious restaurant where your serving of food looks more like a work of art than something that will fill you up or you can also buy fish directly from the fisherman and choose to prepare it yourself. There is a market in town that sells everything fresh. Apart from fresh ocean critters you can buy authentic Italian cheeses, fragrant herbs and spices and meat from butchers that people in town know by name. Be warned — it gets loud in there with all the merchants yelling their prices. Very few merchants speak English so you may need to use your hands to communicate but let’s be honest, that’s nothing new for Italians.
DISCLAIMER: a lot of Terracinese “delicacies” still squirm in your plate. If you are the adventurous type like myself, you’ll see it as a challenge to open up a live clam fish, spray on some lemon juice and slurp it down while it practically begs for mercy.
But if you’re the type that likes their meal to stay put on a fork you still have endless options. Pizza is safe and who can say no to a stone oven baked pizza with fresh basil and buffalo mozzarella?
A beautiful seaside restaurant that’s doing it right is Grappolo D’Uva. If you feel like treating yourself while in town, and having the option of eating raw OR cooked, this is the place to experience real seaside quality. Food is beautifully presented and tables overlook the coast. Why not try it out for a sunset? They have a beautiful Instagram account that they update regularly with yummy dishes and luxurious views @grappoloduva_ricevimenti.
THE VIBE
The general vibe of Terracina is small town charm meets Italian glam. You can enjoy the relaxed quality of the place — it’s nothing like the hectic happenings of Rome. Anything that needs to get done is always “domani” (tomorrow). But it’s still inherently chic — just like Italians are.
What’s great about this town is that it can entertain pretty much anyone. You can go about more relaxed activities or you can enjoy the nightlife. There are plenty of young people, especially in the summers and they’re all on vacation and ready to go out, dance and meet new people.
What’s really cool about Terracina is that finding foreign tourists is rare. I got to experience Italy in its most authentic form because I had the chance to meet other young, local people.
There are too many cities that cater everything to tourists and change their own atmosphere in the process. Terracina is not one of these places.
A lot of the younger Italian population knows English, so you probably won’t ever feel completely clueless but it’s still true to its Italian-ness and will force you to grow and learn about different people. At least that’s what Terracina did for me.
STUFF TO DO
So what is it that you can actually do once you’re there?
1) Beach Parties and Clubs
Stroll across the beach or keep your eye out for beach parties. If you’re brave enough to chat up the locals, you’ll know about any dj’s throwing a concert by the water (that’s if you don’t hear it from your hotel room). There are so many clubs to choose from in the down town area if you’re strolling by.
2) Go for Gelato in the Centro Storico Alto
The Historic City Centre is probably the most ancient part of Terracina. Its a small and enclosed town square with ruins, a museum, cathedral and restaurant.
3) Tempio di Giove Anxur
This is your fantastic photo op. Tempo di Giove was an ancient pagan temple on top of a mountain dedicated to the Goddess Venus. Now its beautiful corridors and archways are the perfect setting for a mountain top photoshoot. Or music video. At least Ligabue thought so (they’re a hugely popular Italian band) and they filmed a music video here. The best aerial shots are after the 3:00 minute mark. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Efe2HHYJCqQ
4) Take a ferry ride to Ponza
It’s 50 minutes long and takes you to a tiny colourful town on an island. It’s worth it to stay and watch the sunset before venturing back into town.
Don’t be another tourist, try out an authentic experience! Terracina awaits.
