A Dress for Peacetime: Dior’s New Look
Christian Dior’s launch of his ‘New Look’ dress in 1947 established itself as a distinctive moment in fashion history. No dress has ever been able to illustrate so clearly the tumultuous political and cultural climate after a world war through such a rejuvenating design and a controversial silhouette.
The fashion world was stunned after years of wartime austerity by the exuberant look itself and the sheer amount of fabric required by the design. The dress was sensual in its silhouette, with its focus on the emphasising of the hourglass figure, and controversial in equal measure.
Controversy
Changing fashions can always cause a bit of a stir but Dior’s New Look went one step further and became a source of national debate for its emphasis on the traditionally sexual version of the feminine form and the lack of care given towards austerity.
Just two years after the end of World War II Britain was still in a state of rationing and even the most necessary materials and food were still in scarce supply for the ordinary person. The New Look though needed what was considered an obscene amount of fabric for its big flouncy skirt and it’s many layers to go underneath. This disregard for the rigid austerity of Britain at the time was looked down upon by many, but celebrated by masses of women who craved a distraction from the dreariness of post-war life, and wanted this new luxury from fashionable Paris.
Two unlikely figures affected by this debate were in fact Princess Margaret and Princess Elizabeth (as she was formerly known) who were both originally banned from wearing the dress by their father King George VII who viewed the material required to create the look a disgrace. The British government went even further than this though and publicly condemned the design as wasteful. (On a side note though this did not stop them having the style made for export only trade!)
The Old Look
One famous wearer of the New Look everyone knows is the movie star and later princess of Monaco, Grace Kelly, however it may surprise you to learn that Kelly was considered behind the times by the time she wore her famous costume for Rear Window in 1954.
Although the look remained popular in use until the early 1960's fashion moves quickly and 7 years after the launch of his initial collection Dior’s design progressively became more associated with an older audience. Fashion followers and younger woman were moving on to the next new dress of the century and length of the skirt was playing a major part in this change. The New Look covered a large part of the leg and this was slowly becoming old fashioned and prim, and became more closely linked with mothers, older women and matronly characters.
Impact
Although the New Look’s popularity declined in it’s later years it’s impact in the history of fashion and couture cannot be underestimated.
Inspiring designers and costumers to this day the influence of Dior’s design can be seen in film, fashion and on the catwalk.
One recent example of the New Look’s influence on fashion in film is Joe Wright’s epic take on Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina. In 2012 the film aimed to amalgamate the imperial fashions of the 19th century with the romantic design of the New Look and in doing so won an Oscar in Costume Design for its efforts!. The film’s costume designer, Jacqueline Durran has directly referenced this inspiration in interviews concerning the film’s costumes, and says that she wanted the overall look of Karenina’s (Keira Knightley) dresses to demonstrate a ‘pure silhouette’. This elegant silhouette Duran felt was best found in 1950's couture from Dior. The historical fashion of Russia from the 1800’s offered the influence of the ostentatious style of the era, the rich colours and attire fit for its Imperial surroundings, and yet its silhouette could be overcomplicated and less sensuos for a story focused on a love affair.
