The Allure of Elegance: A Century of Style and Influence from British Vogue

8 min readSep 17, 2023

As the British edition of the influential global fashion bible Vogue, British Vogue has showcased aspirational style, beauty and culture to its affluent readership for over 100 years. First launched in 1916, the magazine has chronicled shifting dress trends and evolving ideals of elegance through periods of radical social change. This article explores the rich history, visual identity, editorial approach and ongoing legacy of British Vogue as both a cultural mirror and taste-making force within the fashion industry.

Key topics covered:

Origins and early 20th century development
Visual aesthetics and covers over the decades
Signature photographers, illustrations and columnists
Editorial direction under influential longtime editors
Extending the brand through spinoffs and events
The magazine’s influence within the fashion industry
Adapting and innovating for modern audiences

From society doyennes to supermodels, British Vogue has remained an authoritative showcase of each era’s aspirations and sensibilities around beauty, style and female life.

Origins and Early 20th Century

British Vogue launched in autumn 1916 as the British edition of American Vogue, filling a gap in the fashion magazine market during World War I when French magazines were unavailable.

Founded by American publisher Condé Nast in partnership with printing firm Witherby & Co.
Initial print run of 15,000 copies for British distribution
Led by founding editor Elspeth Champcommunal, who established British Vogue’s distinctive voice and look separate from its American counterpart.
Based in Hanover Square in the affluent Mayfair district of London.

Covered topics catering to society women such as:

Parisian and Continental European fashions shown on British models and society figures
Local British fashion designers like Lucile and Reville
Beauty, skincare and cosmetics
Etiquette and social customs
Art, antiques, travel and the British aristocratic lifestyle
Wartime fashions reflecting fabric rationing and shifting female roles

During the “Roaring Twenties”, British Vogue glamorously captured the liberated, modern jazz age flapper embodied by writers like Agatha Christie and the ethnic style influencer Nancy Cunard.

The Interwar Years

From the optimistic 1920s through the austerity of World War II, British Vogue provided readers respite through visualizing an elegant aspirational life.

Dorothy Todd became editor-in-chief in 1922, shaping British Vogue with her interest in arts, travel and sports.
Bright young things like Evelyn Waugh and Cecil Beaton mingled with aristocracy in Vogue’s social pages.
Illustrated covers by Pierre Brissaud and Bernard Boutet de Monvel set a sophisticated tone.
1920s fashions included Coco Chanel’s relaxed separates and the romance of Parisian couture houses like Worth.
1930s reflected sleek, nautical athletics styles and glamorous Old Hollywood movie star looks.
Documented fashion innovations like the zipper and synthetic fabrics pre-war.
“Make Do and Mend” columns advised on making clothes last during fabric rationing in WWII.

Throughout political and social turbulence, British Vogue provided a reassuring picture of timeless good taste and resilience.

The Post-War Years

Following postwar austerity, British Vogue in the late 40s and 50s heralded a return to femininity, romance and optimism through Dior’s New Look.

1947: Model Fiona Campbell-Walter embodied a romantic new era on British Vogue’s first color cover.
1950s covers featured aristocratic models in Debutante gowns amid pastoral British settings.
1955: Princess Margaret graced the cover, boosting interest in youthful royal fashion.
Published fictional serials by Nancy Mitford and Evelyn Waugh satirizing British society.
Model Barbara Goalen showcased Dior’s New Look, helping promote Parisian fashion’s revival.
Reported on celebrities like Audrey Hepburn along with British society beauties.

The 1950s consolidated British Vogue’s aspirational vision of the English country lady.

The Swinging 60s

British Vogue captured the revolutionary spirit of 1960s London, from miniskirts to The Beatles.

1962: Model Jean Shrimpton introduced miniskirts in photo shoots by David Bailey.
1965: Shrimpton wore a mini on the cover, marking a break from formal fashion.
Mary Quant and other Mod designers created looks for new independent young women.
Edna Woolman Chase from American Vogue declared London the style capital over Paris.
Photographers David Bailey, Terence Donovan and Brian Duffy infused fashion shoots with movement and attitude.
Features on music, film and youth culture reflected societal shifts. model Twiggy represented a playful modern look.

By embracing new fashion ideals and culture, British Vogue stayed relevant to a transformational decade.

Enter the Jet Set 1970s

As style became more democratic and eclectic in the 1970s, British Vogue captured a new jet-setting glamor.

1971: Model Jerry Hall striding down a Rio street signaled exotic, sensual escapism.
model Penelope Tree symbolized bohemian eccentricity as British Vogue moved away from aristocratic looks.
Photographer Helmut Newton contributed edgy, sexually liberated imagery.
Designers like Yves Saint Laurent brought refinement to 1970s trends like pantsuits and boho chic.
The magazine extended style influence through menswear spinoff Vogue Man.
Late 1970s reflected return of elegance through designers like Halston.

By divorcing from tradition while upholding quality, British Vogue avoided stagnation during a radical decade.

The Power Years of the 80s

Big shoulders and bigger ambition defined the 1980s as British Vogue celebrated Margaret Thatcher’s new era.

Launched British Vogue House & Garden spinoff in 1980.
Shoulder pad-accented power suits mirrored women entering professional careers.

-1983: Model Sade on the cover reflected a glamorous new generation.

1984: German model Ingrid Boulting introduced athletic toning.
1988: Naomi Campbell, first black British Vogue cover model since 1966.
Photographer Corinne Day pioneered grunge-inspired fashion editorials.
Spotlighted London’s creative club scene and rising fashion designers like Vivienne Westwood.

British Vogue in the 80s developed a cutting-edge point of view attuned to the ambitions of emerging career women.

The 1990s: Cool Britannia

British Vogue celebrated both heritage and multicultural modernity during Cool Britannia of the 1990s.

1990: Queen Elizabeth II guest edited the April issue in honor of British Vogue’s 75th anniversary.
Kate Moss and other waifish models marked a departure from glamorous 80s beauty.
But heritage endured through covers with Princess Diana and formal Debutante themes.
Reported on London’s dynamic creative scene across fashion, film, music and art.
1990s fashion witnessed playful minimalism from designers like Alexander McQueen.
1994: Naomi Campbell, again British Vogue’s first black cover model since 1966, this time with royal connection as girlfriend of Diana’s nephew.

The 1990s issues skillfully balanced tradition with an updated attitude attuned to contemporary Britain.

The Digital Age

British Vogue expanded its digital presence and global audience enormously since 2000.

2000: Model Sophie Dahl on the cover ushered in a new curvier aesthetic.
Launched website in 2000 and tablet apps in 2011 to extend brand reach.
2004-Present: Alexandra Shulman served as the longest running editor, modernizing British Vogue across print and digital.
2010: debuted sponsored short fashion films, among first publications to adopt new multimedia content formats.
Partnered with Farfetch.com in 2010 to integrate e-commerce onto the digital platform.
2012: Created a YouTube channel, generating viral videos that expanded subscribers into the millions.
Social media accounts on Instagram, Twitter, Facebook and WeChat engage millions of followers daily.

While honorings its print legacy, British Vogue innovated digitally to vastly grow global influence since 2000.

Visual Identity and Photography

British Vogue’s covers and editorial images have defined visual archetypes of elegance decade after decade.

Illustrators

Early 20th century covers illustrated by Pierre Brissaud and Bernard Boutet de Monvel.
Post-war illustrated by René Gruau through the 1950s.
Current contributors include David Downton and Mats Gustafson.

Photographers

Pioneers: Cecil Beaton from the 1930s through the 1970s.
1960s daring work of David Bailey, Terence Donovan and Brian Duffy.
Irving Penn, Horst P. Horst, Norman Parkinson and other masters.
Contemporary photographers like Mario Testino, Nick Knight and Tim Walker.

Models and Celebrities

Defining models: Twiggy, Penelope Tree, Jerry Hall, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss.
Celebrities like Princess Diana, Margaret Thatcher, Meghan Markle.

British Vogue covers remain coveted visual statements showcasing top models, actresses and cultural icons.

Longest Serving Editors-in-Chief

A succession of lengthy editorships have given British Vogue continuity and consistency decade over decade.

Dorothy Todd 1922–1956 — Defined British Vogue’s feminine, elite aspirational vision through the World Wars and postwar years. Todd edited British Vogue for 34 years.

Ailsa Garland 1960–1965 — Modernized British Vogue during the cultural upheaval of the 1960s Swinging London era.

Beatrix Miller 1965–1984 — Led British Vogue through nearly 20 years of changing tastes from miniskirts to power dressing. Miller increased circulation and profits.

Liz Tilberis 1992–1999 — First editor from outside aristocratic circles. Revived British Vogue during 1990s Cool Britannia. Died of cancer at age 51.

Alexandra Shulman 1992–2017 — Longest serving editor at 25 years. Modernized and expanded print and digital British Vogue for the 21st century.

These editors provided strong continuity advancing British Vogue decade after decade.

Spinoffs and Brand Extensions

Beyond the flagship magazine, British Vogue has expanded into numerous brand offshoots since the 1980s.

Vogue Living 1989 — Later British Vogue Living. Focused on luxury homes and interiors. Ended in 1995.

Vogue Man 1992 — Launched during the height of men’s fashion in the 1990s. Ceased publication in 1995.

Teen Vogue 2009 — Younger offshoot in partnership with Conde Nast. Ended print edition in 2018. Continues online.

Vogue Festival 2009 — Annual consumer-facing festival in London with fashion talks and workshops. Later renamed Fashion and Film Festival.

Miss Vogue 2010 — Teen supplement magazine bundled with British Vogue. Discontinued in 2013.

Vogue Festival Guide 2012 — Collectible annual supplement for the Vogue Festival.

VOGUE100 2012 — Spinoff commemorative issue for British Vogue’s 100th anniversary.

This mix of brand expansions enabled British Vogue to extend its audience reach and capitalize on reader loyalty.

Influence Within the Fashion Industry

As a respected arbiter of style, British Vogue’s influence impacts both consumer trends and the industry:

Tastemaker power — Designers gaining British Vogue’s endorsement or a spot in editorial spreads can achieve instant validation.
Trendsetting capability — By spotlighting certain looks, models, and designers, British Vogue influences wider trends.
Starmaker role — Appearing on British Vogue’s cover signals a model or celebrity has truly arrived on the global stage.
Authority and expertise — British Vogue is regularly consulted by brands and media seeking a authoritative fashion industry perspective.
Benchmark and record — As an enduring chronicle, British Vogue provides a cultural record of over 100 years of shifting styles and tastes.
Democratizing fashion — Although upscale, British Vogue makes high fashion inspirational and accessible to mass readers.

Few publications can match British Vogue’s lasting power to consecrate and disseminate aesthetics, ideas and talent within fashion.

Modern Evolution

While having celebrated tradition for over a century, British Vogue continually innovates to engage modern readers under editor-in-chief Edward Enninful.

Greater Diversity

Historically perceived as oriented toward white upper-class readership and fashions.
Since 2018 has spotlighted more models, creatives and fashions representing diversity of beauty, ethnicity, body types and background.

Digital Developments

Monthly video series ‘‘In The Bag’’ has celebrities discuss the contents of their handbags. Widely viewed.
Active YouTube channel with extended fashion videos and recordings of industry events.
Instagram account with 3.4 million followers as of 2023. Popular platform to reveal new covers.

Bold Art Direction

Controversial covers that spark conversation like model mental health struggles.
Artsy photo spreads driving creativity and imagination.

By embracing diversity and digital platforms while retaining editorial audacity, British Vogue progresses its legacy brand into the 2020s and beyond.

Conclusion

For over a century, British Vogue has connected fashion fantasy with changing realities — consistently inspiring yet stretching the perspectives and aspirations of its loyal yet evolving readership. With one foot rooted in tradition and the other bravely striding forward, British Vogue’s relentless pursuit of elegance, intellect and beauty across its pages continues to influence generations.