The latest from the Specialty Coffee Association of America trade show

The Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) hosts its annual event in the spring each year, often in my adopted city of Seattle, known for many as the city of coffee. This year the event took place in Atlanta’s spacious albeit not always easy to walk around the Georgia World Congress Center. It is also a tradition for the SCAA to portray one coffee producing country at its annual show and this year the country of honor was Indonesia. The fourth coffee producer in the world after Brazil, Vietnam and Colombia, Indonesia has gained interest by coffee traders, importers, buyers and baristas for its unique characteristics.

“This year we had more than expecting exhibitors”, said Peter Giuliano, Sr. Director of Symposium, “and this is always a treat. We have currently over 2,500 trade members as we are an inclusive community”. But what is the definition of specialty coffee? According to Giuliano, it is coffee that is defined by coffees that are special because they taste extremely good, coffees that are produced in a special way that is good for the environment, and coffees that come from a special place that has a culture with a special influence over the coffee. “Coffees can be special in many ways”, said Giuliano.

What makes Indonesian coffee so unique? During the press conference Ministry of Trade Director General of National Export Development, Mrs. Nus Nuzulia Ishak, said: “We have so many different islands that produce coffee with different characteristics of soil, often volcanic that makes the crops distinctive in flavor. We have selected seventeen fine specialty coffees that originated from all those islands across the Indonesian archipelago such as Sumatra Java, Sulawesi, Flores and Bali.”

The American consumer and Indonesian coffees

Why American importers think so highly of Indonesian coffee? According to Janis Cutler, Vice President of Operations of Amcafé USA is because its profile is not found in other coffees, has an acidity, a sweetness and an earthiness unique to it and it is accepted as a straight and as a blended coffee. Cutler speaks mostly of Sumatran coffees but says that Java has history and a consistency that is appreciated. “The big roasting companies in the US that have used Sumatra and Java coffee as a single origin have done tremendous promotion and brought those coffees to another level. We also did promotions with limited editions of Java with roasters.” Cutler also thinks that this part of the world fascinates people and are intrigued so they learn geography through their coffees. “Sumatra is everywhere but Balinese coffee is my favorite,” said Cutler.

Evan Alexander Gilman, the Creative Director of Royal Coffee, a coffee importing company in Northern California that brings a lot of Indonesian coffees mostly from Sumatra and Java, has a different reason for the popularity of Indonesian coffees. “What sets them apart is that they follow a different processing method, used for the majority in Sumatra, known as the wet haul processing. The coffee is taken out of the cherry pods, then washed, dried down to 40% moisture, moved to the milling facility, dried down to 25% moisture and milled. I ask what this process brings to the coffee and he says that coffee becomes generally earthier with herbal characteristics. “People think that the Indonesian coffees have less acid but I don’t think it is necessarily true. They are roasted darker because people are used to that. When we offer them a lighter roast they are surprised because it is different. It is not new, it has always been there but it was roasted dark.” Gilman’s connection to the island started years ago as he moved there to study Indonesian music. It was only two years ago though when he went back that got involved in the coffee community in all islands and explored coffee through introductions from his previous job at Blue Bottle Coffee.

Trends

Peter Giuliano identified some of this year’s coffee trends. Spices in many coffees like cardamom and cassis that remind him of Indonesian coffees. A second trends is “the desire among coffee companies and baristas to make connections with people. Coffee is unique as a beverage, in a way far more sociable and intellectual than anything else. We meet to have a cup of coffee and we come closer. We are embracing this trend, we are inclusive as an industry. People love coffee but we haven’t touched everybody yet. We want to make coffee accessible to everybody here independently of cultural background or income level.” His point is well taken and some food for thought. Next time in the coffee shop, look around you and see who is there.

Certification

Another topic discussed was the certification of Indonesia’s coffee farmers. “Consumers are craving for good quality coffee and we are giving it to them,” said Director General Nus. It is also good for our own good to be certified and the Trade Ministry of Indonesia has started the process.” Moenardji Soedargo, representing SCOPI, the Sustainable Coffee Platform of Indonesia, a platform that brings NGOs, Academia, local government and farmers’ groups together, reassured that Indonesia is developing sustainable concepts and harmonizing with the sustainable initiatives around the world. “This process,” he said, will create additional value to Indonesian coffees that are well-known already. As certification is important for the US market, some of the companies are adopting the US Certification like the Fair Trade. This is one of the tools for market access.”

Smaller countries at the show

Nepal, a traditional tea producing country was one of the exhibitors said to have found distribution in the US. However, they didn’t offer any samples so nobody can tell how the coffee tastes. Myanmar surprised the entire coffee community with its presence but the country does not yet export to the USA.

“We see smaller coffee producing countries coming into the market and this is good news. The climate change means that some of the traditional coffee origins are less suitable. The consumption of coffee is increasing but the production is not so there is definitely space for new countries and producers to come in,” said Giuliano. Gilman agrees: “Smaller counties can be marketable not only from the perspective of a new origin but also they maybe distinguish themselves because of their processing techniques, or of the different characteristics of their terroir. I think they have a place on the map and they can make a name for themselves. It is also another income stream for them,” said Gilman.

From the SCAA show floor

During my last stroll on the show floor, I noticed interesting trends as well. Milk of all kinds like coconut, almond, rice, macadamia and hazelnut for your creamy lattes and cappuccinos are now available for the dairy and casein free consumers. I also saw cold brews often served as beer from the tap. All I have to say before departing the show is that I am fully caffeinated. I doubt that I will get another cup of Joe at the airport. But I look forward to next year’s show in Seattle.