Travel Guide Draft Sancti Spiritus
Sancti Spiritus
In the center of island, between mountains and paradise beaches, tropical forest and lakes, the province of Sancti Spiritus is one of a kind in Cuba.
Approaching the coast on the South shines the museum city of Trinidad, Cuba’s colonial jewel. A unique place in Cuba where time froze in the mid XIXth century. Perfectly ppreserved from modernity and the damages of time, the retro charm of the Spanish colonial town, its palaces and cobbed streets are still very much in evidence, enchanted by the melodies of the street bands playing salsa, trova and son in most of the street corners.The city was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1988.
Surrounded by exciting naturals beauties, Sancti Spiritus is home to the most beautiful beaches of the South coast, while the North of the province is the land of the “Sierra del Escambray”, Cuba’s best trekking destination, offering a lush adventure playground.
The province also features many other hidden sites, the Ëmbalse Zaza” lake, the “Yaguajav” museum or the “Bahia de Buenavista”.
The blessed province of Sancti Spiritus offers a wide variety of natural and historical wonders.
Geography
Located in the center on the island, the small province of Sancti Spiritus is offering a smart mix of landscapes. The south is relatively flat and convenient for large sugarcane plantations that you will find in the famous “Vallée de los Ingenios” while the coast is the most beautiful of the South, perfectly illustrated by the marvelous “Playa Ancon”. The North offers a real contrast with the South. It is dominated by the majestic “Sierre del Escambray” and a luxurious vegetation, home to a huge variety of endemic fauna and flora.
The main city, Trinidad, I situated on the South of the province, facing the Caribbean sea.
Brief historry
Founded in 1514 by the Spanish conquistador Diego Velazquez de Cuellar, Trinidad was the base camp for the conquest of Mexico. During the XVIIth century, Dutch and British pirates led many unsuccessful attacks to take control of what is now the province of Sancti Spiritus. However, the city of Trinidad was on two occasion sacked by pirates from Jamaica and Tortuga.
For a long time, sugarcane plantations made the province very prosperous. From the XVIIth to the XVIIIth century, Trinidad was one of the main region of production of sugarcane and the epicenter of slave trade and of the commerce of sugar in Cuba. The sumptuous palaces built around the main square, “Plaza Mayor”, by rich sugar barons testify the wealth of the land owner of that time. Unfortunately, in the mid XIXth century, the crisis and decline of the prosperous sugarcane production struck the province, which sunk in a long period of isolation. This allowed the city to remain as it was then, architecture was preserved as the time in Trinidad froze.
Carefully restored, Trinidad is the best preserved and most untouched colonial town on the island.
Recently, the ‘big’ province of Santa Clara was divided into the provinces of Cienfuegos, Sancti Spiritus and Villa Clara.
See and Do
In between the Caribbean and the Escambray mountains, Sancti Spiritus proposes a huge diversity of activities. Idyllic beaches, verdant mountains, lakes and waterfalls offers a rich variety of natural attractions while Trinidad, the capital city of the province, takes you back in time. The ‘museum city of Cuba’ abounds with colonial palaces and historical sites, giving you a unique opportunity to travel back to a remote and flourishing era.
Trinidad is probably the most beautiful city of Cuba. Some are saying even better than Havana. Well this is just a question of opinion. More authentic, this city smells like the past. It is a real postcard of the colonial heritage of Cuba, and the visit will take you back few centuries ago. Travelling to Cuba, you must see Trinidad, its colonial architecture, ancient churches, old plazas, small paved streets, colorful houses, street live music everywhere…
Out of the city, a lot of excursion will give you the chance to admire the natural splendor of the province, the perfect examples being “Vallée de los Ingenios” or “Topes de Collante”…
Sights
Plaza Mayor
About 500 years ago, this place was the camp of Hernan Cortes troops, on their way to Mexico. Later, it became a beautiful and romantic square where the nobility met.
This square, bordered with palm trees, is surrounded by the most beautiful architecture of the city, wonderful palaces, museums, church… many restaurants bars, shop making it very lively anytime of the day or night… while musicians will transfigure the elegance of this place into something magic that cannot be described with words… It is the historical and cultural center of the city, another era, you will feel like time froze in the XVIth century.
A real Jewel.
Iglesia Parroquial de la Santissima Trinidad
The most beautiful church of Trinidad is located on the « Plaza Mayor », like a crown on top of the hill. Despite its impressive façade, the neo-gothic church is pretty simple in itself. However, the chapels and statues are very picturesque. Rebuilt and restored many time after fires or even pirate attacks, you can still appreciate its originals decoration and paintings on some walls.
It hosts the statue of the “Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre”, the saint protector of Cuba, and a wooden statue of the Christ which was dedicated to Veracruz. The story tells that the ship sunk and that the statue run aground on a beach near Trinidad.
Vallée de los Ingenios
East of Trinidad stands the “Vallée de los Ingenios” (sugar cane valley), a vast plain with more than 70 sugar plants, houses of the sugar barons, barracks of workers, railways… A real open air museum dedicated to sugar production. Onboard a steam train, the excursion takes you around the valley to visit sugar cane plantations and meet the famers. Spectacular views of the valley, especially from the different towers popping up around the plantations. These towers, hosting bells, served two main purposes, ringing the beginning and ending of the work day in the field and to watch for slaves trying to escape their harsh conditions. The most famous of them being the Manaca-Iznaga tower.
Be aware that this visit will be packed with tourists and all that come with it.
Torre de Iznaga
Now offering the visitors a unique view over the valley, the tower was built during the XIXth century, in 1816, near the hacienda of the sugar baron and slave owner Alejo Maria del Carmen Iznaga, to show off its wealth and power and also as an observation tower to watch the slaves working in the plantation.
It really worth climbing the 137 steps of this 45 meters high tower to appreciate a stunning panorama of the valley.
Antigua Convento de San Francisco de Asis
This former convent was converted into the “Museo de la Lucha Contre los Banditos”.
One of the symbol of Trinidad’s past, the bell tower, overlooking the city, offers a fantastic view over the old town, enshrined between the sea and the Vallée de los Ingenios with the Escambray Mountains in the background. You’ll discover Trinidad from a different angle, roofs, terraces on the rooftops, yards… At sunset, the vivid colors of the buildings turn into warm pastel tones and give you totally different sensations.
Parque Central Cespedes
This is Trinidad’s other square. Parque Cespeded is a charming colonial place where you will enjoy taking a break and observe locals. Much more popular locals with locals than Plaza Mayor, it is the wifi hotspot of the city, and though very lively. Sitting on the benches in the gardens under the shades of the trees, locals gather here to access the internet, meet, talk, argue, play in a very agreeable way.
Parque Serrafin Sanchez
On the way from Trinidad to Remedios is the city of Sancti Spiritus. Its main square, the “Parque Serafin Sanchez” worth a visit. A huge and beautiful square surrounded by colorful buildings and paved streets, it is like stepping back in time. Take a break on one of the benches to observe locals and don’t hesitate to talk to them as they love to share their stories.
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Museums
Museo Romantico
The « Palacio Brunet », sumptuous building from the XVIIIth century, offer a splendid outside and a wonderful interior made of marble floors and decorated with crystals from Bohemia, ceramics from Talavera de la Reina and mural frescoes. The “Museo Romantico” features a historically rich collection of furniture and various objects providing a snapshot of the colonial era living. Once again Trinidad will take you back in time in one of the best way possible.
Museo Historico Municipal
If there is only one museum to visit in Trinidad, it is the « Museo Historico Municipal ». Located off “Plaza Mayor” in the former “Palacio Cantero”, this grandiose mansion is decorated in a neo-classical style. Its tower is an emblem of Trinidad and offers a fantastic panoramic view. This very well documented museum exhibits ‘souvenirs’ of the city’s history, furniture, art, weapons as well as maps and historical documents retracing Trinidad’s past and explaining the commerce of sugar, the slave trade or the Independence war.
Museo de Arquitectura Colonial
Another small museum explaining the colonial architecture and showing how XVIth and XVIIth century houses looked like, displaying building designs and interesting original pieces of furniture.
Museo Nacional de la Lucha Contra los Banditos
Hosted in the former « Antigua Convento San Francisco de Asis », this museum is dedicated to the struggle led but Castro’s government against counterrevolutionary groups between 1960 and 1965. Photos, maps, weapons shows Castro’s regime propaganda. The museum also show the wreck of a US U-2 spy aircraft shot down over Cuba. Another way of looking back at the “Revolucion”.
Casa Templo de Santeria Yemaya
Santeria is Cuba’s main religion of African origin. This house hosts an altar to ‘Yemaya’, the goddess of the sea in the Santeria religion. As complicated as it can be to replicate the spirituality of this religion, the altar is loaded with plenty of offerings, flowers, fruits, water, stones… and ceremonies are performed on March, 19, the goddess anniversary day.
Do
Even if the main attraction in the province will remain the historical Trinidad, Sancti Spiritus is a naturally rich province and you will find many adventure once away from Trinidad.
Many beaches are located near Trinidad, “Playa Ancon” the most famous, “Playa Maria de Anguilar” ideal for snorkeling or the rocky “Playa la Boca” offering magnificent view on the “Sierra del Escambray”.
Inland, the mountain range crossing the province offers natural wonders that you can discover thanks to a variety of excursion taking you deep in the verdant forest to incredible waterfall and natural pools in the mountain.
Playa Ancon
Said to be the finest beach of Sancti Spiritus, and the finest on the Southern coast of the island, “Playa Ancon” is an idyllic long stripe of white powder sand combined with turquoise warm waters, excellent spot for sunbathing, swimming and for water activities.
You can snorkel and dive just offshore or at the reef islet of Cayo Blanco. Cayo Blanco International Diving Center, located in Trinidad, offers different tours, diving, snorkeling and beach as well as a sunset catamaran tour.
Parque El Cubano
“Parque El Cubano” is a natural preserve listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can find vestiges of the slave trade and a colonial era ‘ranchon’, or simply trek through its undeniable natural beauty to the “Javira” waterfall. You will go for a one hour walk on easy paths along the river, through a luxurious tropical forest until you reach the fall and enjoy a rewarding swim in one of the three natural pool filled with fresh water.
Topes de Collantes
Northwest of Trinidad, in the “Sierre del Escambray”, the natural park “Topes de Collantes” will present you its fabulous landscape of caves, canyons, rivers, waterfalls, natural pools… The tropical forest is home to many endemic species of fauna and flora, amongst which more than 40 species of orchids, more than a 100 species of ferns, jasmin, ginger, coffee trees, eucalyptus or giant pin trees.
Here, the walk to reach the waterfalls is tougher but really worth it when you reach the “Salto del Caburni” or the “Vegas Grande”.
Salto de Caburni
After a 45 minute trek in the jungle through the verdant vegetation, stopping on the way at some ponds to freshen up, you will reach the impressive 62 meters high “Salto de Caburni” waterfall, and will be able to enjoy a nice swim in the natural pool down the fall. Great way to relax after the walk up to the fall. The most adventurous will have the possibility to jump off from the cliff. Then the way back takes you again through the jungle to end up this fantastic excursion.
Vegas Grande
Less impressive than the “Salto del Caburni”, “Vegas Grande” waterfall is reachable after an easier walk than the previous one. The excursion will also take you on paths through the luxurious and verdant Cuban tropical forest till you reach the fall.
Embalse Hanabanilla
In the middle of a verdant countryside, this beautiful fresh water lake offers incredible views and is perfect for boat rides or fishing. You can eat directly with locals in their home, or take a ferry to Rio Negro where there is an excellent restaurant. Another great piece of nature.
Horse-riding excursions
Another way to discover the Escambray Mountains is to take a horse-riding. Probably the best adventure activity around Trinidad.
These day trips will take you in the “Topes de Collante” national park up the mountain to the waterfall. The guides know everything about the region, plants, animals and will give you plenty of explanations about the different places you will go through. Starting in the forest, on the way to the waterfall you will stop at a natural pool to enjoy a refreshing swim, you will meet a coffee planter, stop for lunch in the middle of the jungle.
Other excursion will take you for a wonderful time venturing by horseback into the sugarcane plantations where you will visit a sugarcane farm.
Eat
Trinidad is a city full of surprise. Despite being an open air museum and a historically rich city, it will also seduce you with another important piece of Cuban culture, its culinary tradition. Many restaurants will delight your appetite.
Restaurants
Vista Gourmet The terrace of this private restaurant, roosted above the city’s rooftops is inviting you to a unique dinner with view. Buffets of appetizer and dessert and a la carte dishes. Try the lobster or the house specialty, the “lechon asado” savor (roast pork), accompanied with one of the great wine from the menu.
Paladar Sol y Son You will appreciate the charm of the typical patio of this colonial house, fountains, columns, trees… This paladar suggests a succulent and refined traditional Cuban cuisine and a great variety of dishes. Lobster is simply fantastic.
Museo 1514 As its name suggests it, when you step into this restaurant you think you are entering a museum. You will find yourself propelled back in the XIXth century for the time of a dinner. Of age decorations, tables, silverware… You will keep with the retro atmosphere of the ‘museum city’. Moreover, it serves the best “Canchanchara” in town.
La Ceiba Take a sit in the patio, under the giant ceiba tree. This paladar is specialized in chicken, especially chicken in honey and lemon sauce. Cocktails are savory and served in ceramic cups. Try the most famous cocktail of Trinidad, the “canchancahra” (rum, honey, lemon, water).
Cubita Impeccable service, innovative food, generous portions, discreet music, wide selection of wine… contribute to make this restaurant one of the most appreciated in Trinidad.
Guitarra Mia Tasty Caribbean food such as “tostones” is getting even better in a melodious environment. The band is playing Cuban music while you enjoy your meal. Don’t forget to write your comments ‘on the door’ when you leave.
El Dorado This restaurant welcomes you in a colonial house to savor an international cuisine of beef, turkey, fish… along with one of their very good cocktails.
Entertainment
Like everywhere on the island, Cuba would not be Cuba without its load of fun, dances and music. Trinidad doesn’t derogate to the rules and hosts many places to relax while enjoying a cocktail or to dance till late at night.
Drinks
La Floridita A Cuban institution made popular by Hemingway, and famous for its daiquiris. This bar is another edition of the writer lair. Excellent cocktails, great music, good atmosphere. If it was good enough for Hemingway…
La Botija The plus of this tavern is its band, probably the best in town, playing Cuban songs in a friendly and welcoming atmosphere.
Nightlife
Palenque de los Congos Reales The music played is quite Cuban eclectic, salsa, trova, son, but when it turns 10pm the rumba show is on. Frenetic “yorubas” dances, Afro-Cuban rhythms, drum beats, spectators are invited to dance on stage… This music venue is dedicated to rumba fans.
Casa de la Trova Dance salsa, bachata, bolero on the sounds of ‘Semillas del Son’, ‘Santa Palabra’ or ‘Israel Moreno’. Ambience and music are always fantastic and very authentic. It is a real Cuban place even if it is packed with tourists.
Las Ruinas de Sagarte Another music venue like only Cuba can offer. Dances and music in a stunning atmosphere as it is located in ruins. Cocktails are good and Cuban music is played all night.
Disco Ayala On top of the hill, accessible after a short walk on a dark unpaved track… This cabaret is quite uncommon. Located in a cave, the indigenous theme give it an incredible atmosphere. The music is mostly international. The entry fee includes as many mojitos as you can have. A really different experience.
Casa de la Musica Another institution in Cuba honoring Cuban music and most particularly salsa in an open air venue just off “Plaza Mayor”. Salsa show start at 10pm.
Shopping
Arts & Crafts Market This open air market is the best place in Trinidad to buy souvenirs.
Tienda Amelia Pelaez The store proposes Cuban handcrafts.
Casa del Habano Best place to shop for some Cuban rum and cigars