Dark Fashion: What Does the Gothic Subculture Represent?

Gia Beri Chadha
2 min readAug 12, 2023

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The Gothic subculture is one of the most unique and fascinating fashion movements of modern times. With its emphasis on black clothing, dramatic makeup, and ornate accessories, it has become a powerful symbol of rebellion, self-expression, and individuality.

Gothic fashion has a long and rich history, dating back to the 18th century when it was primarily associated with the Gothic revival in architecture and literature. It wasn’t until the 1980s, however, that gothic fashion truly began to take on its modern form and become a distinct subculture. The post-punk movement had a heavy influence here, where bands such as Joy Division, Siouxsie and the Banshees, and The Cure captured everyone’s attention with their dark and moody music and iconic fashion styles. The emergence of different sub-genres of gothic music, such as industrial and metal, led to new fashion styles and subcultures within the broader gothic community.

At its core, the gothic subculture is about embracing darkness and macabre. It is a celebration of the darker aspects of human nature, including death, decay, and the unknown. This is reflected in the fashion aesthetic as well, which often incorporates symbols of death and the occult, such as skulls, crosses, and pentagrams, along with black as the predominant colour.

However, ‘goth’ also represents something more profound: a rejection of mainstream culture and the status quo. By embracing the unconventional and the taboo, gothic fashion has become a way for people to express their individuality without conforming to societal ideals of beauty and style. This wide range of self-expression also allows space for androgyny, non-binary, and gender fluidity – rather than dividing clothing along the lines of masculine and feminine. Goth icon Siouxsie Sioux was known for her androgynous appearance: her signature look of heavy eyeliner and bleached hair, along with her unique style and music, challenged gender norms at every step, making her a cultural shorthand for the movement.

The impact of goth on fashion and pop culture is undeniable. Many modern designers have drawn inspiration from gothic fashion, incorporating elements of the subculture into their own designs. The late British fashion designer Alexander McQueen was known for his gothic-inspired theatrical fashion shows, with models dressed in elaborate and often macabre outfits. Rick Owens is another huge name in this movement, with his edgy designs often using gothic elements like leather, studs, and draping.

Lady Gaga once famously described herself as “a child of the goth movement”, and millions around the world would see themselves the same way. The “dark fashion” gothic aesthetic brings together like-minded individuals with a love for the dark, macabre and romantic. It’s evident that gothic subculture continues to occupy an influential position in the cultural landscape, whether for the freedom of expression, it offers, the rebellion against mainstream societal norms, or simply for its acknowledgement of the morbid side of life.

Sources:

https://elle.in/article/gothic-subculture/

https://www.atmostfear-entertainment.com/lifestyle/fashion/goth-subculture-fashion-style-subcultural-theories/

https://www.haruco-vert.com/2021/08/29/dark-fashion-a-gothic-origin/

https://guindytimes.com/articles/gothic-subculture

https://scholarworks.csun.edu/bitstream/handle/10211.3/216255/Ikin-Amanda-thesis-2020.pdf?sequence=1

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