Stop Wasting $ on Skincare and Start Using what Actually Works. Love, Your Dermatologist

There has been a growing trend over the past decade of using more and more skincare products on your face. The “12-step regimen” and “double cleansing” and adding on toners and serums galore have become household names. Somehow, using more products has become synonymous with glowing skin, and as a board-certified dermatologist, I’m here to say, please stop.

I see 30 patients a day, 5 days a week in my dermatology practice, and mostof them ask me for my advice in critiquing and curating a skincare regimen for them. I’ve seen all sorts of skincare regimens with all types of ingredients, including snail slime, donkey milk, expensive collagen powders, and more. I’ve seen it all. And 99% of the time, I tell my patients to simplify simplify simplify and please use what actually works. What has been shown in science to work, and what do you actually need in a regimen? Let me break it down for you. How short this list is may surprise you!

1. Sunscreen. I can’t overemphasize how important it is to use sunscreen or sun protective clothing or hats to prevent UV-induced DNA damage and photoaging. Not only does sunscreen help prevent against the development of skin cancer, it also prevents all the skin changes we associate with aging: leathery texture, dark spots, wrinkles, and more. I routinely look at skin biopsies under the microscope, and I can always spot skin samples from someone who worships the sun. These skin samples always show features of solar elastosis, blue squiggly abnormal elastic tissue, that on the skin appear as yellow thickened skin. If you hate sunscreen, use sun protective gear. I’m not here to police you and tell you to stay out of the sun 100% of the time — as with everything, enjoy in moderation.

Different people may need different types of sunscreens depending on your skin sensitivities, age, skin color, allergies, etc. I routinely help my patients sort through all the available sunscreens on the market to find one that fits their lifestyle and budget.

2. Retinoid or Retinol. Retinoids and retinols are vitamin A derivatives that work to normalize skin cell turnover. We use them commonly in dermatology for acne (you may recognize its oral form Accutane for severe nodulocystic acne) and in cosmetic dermatology, to help with fine lines, tan to dark spots, and blackheads and whiteheads. When you start a retinoid or retinol, many people develop “retinoid dermatitis,” which means redness, flaking, and drying of the skin as your skin gets used to the new medication. This process may last for several weeks, but stick it out, because the results are worth it in the end.

Which retinoid or retinol product is best for you? It depends. If my patients can tolerate a prescription retinoid, which is stronger than over the counter retinols, I would suggest starting with tretinoin and moving up to Tazorac over months. If my patient has sensitive skin or skin conditions such as rosacea, perioral dermatitis, eczema, or more, I suggest the gentler retinol, and only a few times a week to start. There are many retinoid and retinol products available, and I work closely with my patients to choose the right one for them, and then help them through the process as their skin gets used to the new medication.

3. Hyaluronic acid. Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in our bodies that helps lubricate joints and keep our skin nice and plump. We use it in cosmetic dermatology to inject into patients’ faces as they age, to give back volume and that youthful appearance to sunken temples and cheeks (side note: HA ends up being broken down by the body over time, so this is a temporary fix that lasts about 6–8 months depending on the location injected). Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it helps retain moisture. Let me be honest here: it is not a magical moisturizer, nor will it help erase any wrinkles. But if mixed in with or applied with the right moisturizer, it can help your moisturizer work more effectively to hydrate your skin. Keeping your skin from drying out is important because dry skin is prone to wrinkle formation and sensitivities.

4. Vitamin C. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant, helping to reduce free radical damage caused by the sun. It also decreases tyrosinase activity, an enzyme involved in melanin formation. In doing so, Vitamin C can help lighten tan spots, especially when used in conjunction with other brightening agents such as hydroquinone, arbutin, kojic acid, and more.

Vitamin C comes in many forms, and unfortunately, is not regulated by the FDA, so many of the Vitamin C products you buy on the market are not actually formulated with the right pH and laboratory settings to actually work. I help my patients comb through all the Vitamin C powders, creams, gels, serums, eye creams, etc. that are out there, and pick out ones that actually do what they say they do. There is a lot of snake oil being sold out there.

This is not a comprehensive list of what works, but it’s a very basic start. Depending on the patient I may also recommend other things such as topical tranexamic acid to lighten dark spots or melasma, azelaic acid for rosacea, makeup remover and cleansers, mild steroid or non steroid calcineurin inhibitors for eczema, beta hydroxy acids like salicylic acid or topical antibiotics for acne prone patients, etc. There is no one size fits all in skincare, so every regimen I make for each patient is personalized depending on their skin issues.

After doing so many consultations for my patients day in and day out for years, I realized that this must be a very common problem that people face. What if I could help more people stop wasting their time and money on products that don’t work, and actually craft regimens for them that DO work?

That’s how Glow Up was born.

I don’t want to mix a magic bottle of ingredients and tell you that this will cure all your skincare woes. I care most that the skincare products I recommend to you a) WORK and b) you will like and use them. Glow Up is all about science-based ingredients, so if you need prescription strength medications to help with your acne, dark spots, or winkles, I will prescribe it for you. If you want to use certain brands that you know and love, I’ll include that in your regimen. If you have certain allergies and sensitivities, I’ll make sure to avoid those in your regimen. If you’re pregnant, trying to conceive, or breastfeeding, I will carefully choose ingredients that are safe for this stage in your life. Together, we can customize everything in your regimen.

I think of Glow Up as a partnership between dermatologists and you, embarking on a skincare journey to find the most effective skincare products to fit your skincare needs, while taking your preferences into account. Sign up now for early access at GlowUp to check it out for yourself.