Granada
Home of the Alhambra and the Albaícin
Spectacular Granada straddles three hills: the Alhambra, the Albaícin and the Sacromonte. It was the last Moorish kingdom in Spain.
Boabdil, the last Moorish king in Spain, wept when he lost his beloved city on the Darro to the Catholic forces of Ferdinand and Isabella on January 2, 1492. And with good reason.
Granada, with its balmy climate, breathtaking views, the incomparable Alhambra palace and the twisting cobblestone streets of the Albaícin — all cradled under the towering, snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevadas — has no equal.
No wonder it is the most frequently visited city in Spain.
Muslim armies first swept into the Iberian Peninsula in 711, sealing their conquest by defeating the short-reigned Don Roderick, last of Spain’s Gothic Kings. Then for almost 800 years, Christian princes battled to win the country back piece by piece. At last, only the powerful and warlike territory of Granada remained in Moorish hands.
Then Boabdil, Abu Abdallah Muhammad XII, surrendered his beautiful capitol without a fight. This was much to the consternation of his mother, who accompanied him into exile. She admonished her son: “Cry like a woman over what you couldn’t defend like a man.”
“In a land of love and grace so rare,
Where the moonlight fills the tranquil night’s air,
A city rises with elegance so fair,
My dear Granada, in your splendor so bright and rare.”
– From the Lament of Boabdil
Christopher Columbus reportedly was among those who witnessed the raising of Spanish banners over the city. For him, as well as for Spain, 1492 was a momentous year.
The Alhambra
Undoubtedly Granada’s major attraction, the Alhambra draws thousands of visitors from all over the world. Access is limited, and entry tickets must be obtained in advance. But the lure of the Alhambra is nothing new.
In 1829, American author Washington Irving (The Legend of Sleepy Hollow, Rip Van Winkle) lived in the palace and immersed himself in Spanish culture. Along the way, he became captivated by Granada’s rich cultural heritage and stunning landscapes. Irving’s book, Tales of the Alhambra, details the history of the palace and many of its legends, showcasing his keen observations of Spanish life and folklore.
Take the bus to the Alhambra Hill and enter through the Gateway to the Pomegranates erected by Holy Roman Emperor Charles V. Walk up the path lined with elm trees planted by the Duke of Wellington (who chased away chickens, Romani and transient beggars) until you arrive at the Gate of Justice.
On the west loom the walls and ramparts of the 9th century Alcabaza, the oldest structure in the Alhambra. To the east of the square, where there is also a parador — or government-owned hotel — rests the shell of a palace begun by Charles V. The Hapsburg Emperor began the Renaissance-style structure in 1526, but because of a violent earthquake, never finished it.
The building stands in stark contrast to the Moorish architecture that dominates the rest of the Alhambra. Two museums, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Museum of the Alhambra, are also located here.
But farther to the north is the real masterpiece, the Alcazar, or Royal Palace, which dates from 1334. Enter through the Mexuar Court, a Moorish council chamber, later used by the Spaniards as a chapel, and proceed to the Court of the Myrtle Trees, the palace’s most famous feature, with its inviting shade trees and reflecting pond.
The Alcazar boasts exquisite stucco work, graceful archways and ornate tile mosaics. It is a stunning example of the architectural splendor of the Nasrid period (1232–1492).
Don’t miss these other attractions of the Alhambra:
The Hall of the Ambassadors, originally a throne room for the Moorish kings
The Court of the Lions, once the heart of the harem
The Abencerrajes Gallery, featuring a stalactite ceiling and marble fountain
The Hall of the Two Sisters with its intricate, honeycomb dome
The Daraxa Courtyard, shaded by its orange and cypress trees
Patio de la Reja, or Court of the Window Grille, where Washington Irving lived and wrote in 1829
Once your tour of the Alhambra is complete, enjoy the Palace of the Genaralife. Dating from 1319, it was the summer home of the Moorish kings. Its extensive, Italian-style gardens are verdant with roses, laurels and oranges.
The Albaícin
Visitors also find fascinating the twisting, cobblestone streets of the Albaícin, Granada’s ancient Moorish quarter. Saved from the march of progress and not renovated like much of the city, the district retains its medieval charm, with fountains, cisterns, whitewashed plazas and mosques converted to Catholic churches.
Enjoy lunch al fresco in a sunny square and stroll past hidden corners. Seek out a home featuring a shady courtyard tucked away behind outer walls, reminiscent of a sumptuous way of life that is long past.
A visit to the Albaícin is like a trip to another world.
Don’t miss the spectacular viewpoints (miradores) that offer panoramic vistas of the Alhambra, set against the Sierra Nevada Mountains. They offer breathtaking sights, especially at sunset when the Alhambra is bathed in golden light.
Sacromonte Hill
This iconic neighborhood is famous for its cave houses, flamenco tradition and breathtaking views of the city below. It is a treasure trove of culture, natural beauty and history.
Sacromonte’s most distinctive features are the cave dwellings, which are carved into the soft rock of the hillside. These unique homes have been inhabited for hundreds of years and are an integral part of the neighborhood’s identity.
For centuries, Romani have lived in these caves, although many were forced to seek other lodging after heavy flooding in 1962.
Included in many city tours, the area is notorious as a shady tourist trap, and many guidebooks warn visitors to beware. The main attractions are the caves themselves, which accommodate surprisingly modern and comfortable lodgings, cozy restaurants and bars, and even small museums.
Also, the neighborhood is synonymous with flamenco; and the streets resonate with the passionate rhythms of guitars and soulful singing. Although castanets rattle everywhere after dark, the best performers are snapped up by flamenco troops at the more expensive clubs.
