Discover the magic and charm of Havana’s Cathedral Square

Who was going to say it? From muddy square to the most outstanding symbol of the city. Surrounded by palaces, famous restaurants, galleries, museums, and many, many tourists, the Cathedral Square is a compulsory site for any visitor. A place with incredible stories, magic and charm. It’s the most photographed spot of the island. If you haven’t been to the Cathedral Square of Havana, then, you haven’t been to Cuba.

The Havana Heritage

Arriving at this remarkable square means to get deep into Old Havana. If you walk down from the Boulevard on Obispo, through San Ignacio or from the Avenida del Puerto, this part of the city amazes us with its architecture, charms and contrasts. It’s the chance to feel the real Havana, a city that surprises us with its ancient buildings and the talkativeness of its people.

On foot or on a bici-taxi, we can move forward through the narrow streets as the Chan Chan of a group of musicians paves the way to the most preserved area, the historical center of Havana, declared by UNESCO, since 1982, a World Heritage Site.

From Swamp Square to Cathedral Square

At the beginning of the colonial period, the location occupied by The Cathedral Square at present was a marshy land due to several springs that rose there. Furthermore, on one side of the square, where the Chorro Alley (Callejon del Chorro) is today, flowed one of the Royal ditch branches, the first Cuban aqueduct. Settlers used to go to this place to get water supply, to attend the already stablished public baths and to trade cattle, fish and slaves. It was such a constant putrid mud that the area was known as The Swamp Square (la Plaza de la Cienaga).

There wasn’t enough water when the Jesuits built a modest church there. While rich traders built their palaces in the area, the Company of Jesus finally placed in 1748, the first stone of a typical edification of that time. The church was already finished when King Charles III expelled the Jesuits from this territory. Ten years later, the Havana clergy changed the status of the building to the Greater Parochial of the town.

Named Cathedral of the Virgen Maria de la Concepcion Inmaculada of Havana. Its religious ceremonies changed forever the appearance and nature of the Cathedral.

The Square of Palaces

A peculiar aspect distinguishes the Cathedral Square among all the Cuban squares. All the surrounding edifications which are part of it are from the 18th century. There are four palaces showing the great achievements in the architecture of the Cuban baroque: The Lombillo Palace, today the Office of the City’s Historian dates from 1739. Besides, the Palace of the Marquis of Arcos, an ancient edification, today a museum and gallery. The great house of the Counts of Casa Bayona, across from the Cathedral, built in 1720 where the Museum of Colonial Art is nowadays. The Palace of the Marquis of Aguas Claras was built in 1775 and it’s today the well-known restaurant ‘El Patio’, its porch is the ideal place to enjoy the square’s view while tasting exquisite Cuban cuisine and cocktails.

What to do in the cathedral Square?

There are several options. If you like plastic arts, you can go to the Victor Manuel Gallery, Wilfredo Lam Center or the Experimental Graphic Workshop of Havana, important institutions of the contemporary Cuban art.

If you are interested in cooking, you could taste the emblematic dishes of the country in four restaurants of reference: the so called “El Patio”, “La moneda Cubana”, the “Paladar Dona Eutimia” and a few meters from there, the well-known worldwide, “Bodeguita del Medio”, the cradle of mojito, site visited by famous personalities from all over the world.

People and characters of the Square

The art of fortune-telling is present. Under the shadow of the Palace of the Marquis of Aguas Claras, you’ll find a priestess of the Regla de Ocha (Santeria), a woman dressed in white who will tell you about your future. In the palace across the street, you can gaze at the sculpture of Antonio Gades. He’s leaning on a column enjoying like any othe the Cathedral of the country he admired so much.

The charming of the façade

The façade of the Cathedral has been very praised by architects and historians of Art, outstanding its impact and authenticity produced by the bold combination of architectural elements. Guarded by two asymmetric towers, it is said that its design is the most radical of the Cuban Baroque School. The famous writer, Alejo Carpentier used to say that the façade of the Cathedral was:

“…music turned into stone.”

The Square, symbol of the city

Like a stunning movie star, the Cathedral Square shines with the continuous camera flash. Spotted in thousands of selfies. It usually produces an unmistakable compulsion: once you see it, your hands take the camera. And you don’t have to be an expert to know that you are there, in an emblematic and important site. Going up to the bell tower is an excellent opportunity to discover each detail and enjoy from the top, the Cathedral Square in all its splendor.

Originally published at havanaprivatesuite.com.