El Templete, where history is perpetuated in time

Havana Private Suite
5 min readJun 13, 2018

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It became one of most visited places in Habana Vieja (Old Havana), El Templete challenges time and invites people to relive the past. This is attested by the existence of almost two centuries, where history is printed in its walls and surroundings.

Although it is the smallest of buildings that surround Plaza de Armas, its architecture makes it shine and offers, along with the Ceiba tree and the Cagigal Column, a historical — cultural complex of compulsory attendance.

Cultural Function

Those who visit Plaza de Armas in Old Havana will notice in El Templete a museum owner of the old edification magic. Located in east side of the square, specifically on Baratillo Street, between O’Reilly and Enna streets, its story is one of those that catch from the beginning.

His inauguration dates back to March 19th, 1828 and was built in same place where first Havana’s catholic mass was celebrated, under the “Ceiba” tree that also gave shelter to session of first town hall. These events occurred on November 16th, 1519, date on which Villa de San Cristobal de La Habana was founded.

El Templete was erected in only four months and is considered a commemorative construction, forged as a building, not as a mere monument. It is a work with great influence on development of Cuban architecture, whose presence in Plaza de Armas intervened in evolution of the forms of “cuban baroque” towards those linked to neoclassicism in nineteenth century.

It stands out for its triple function: First, to indicate the place where first mass and town hall of nascent village were celebrated; Second, to house three works by French painter Jean Baptiste Vermay, founder of San Alejandro Academy of Fine Arts; and Third, keep the ashes of aforementioned painter and his wife, kept in a marble urn in the center of the room.

In relation to the paintings that cover the museum walls, visitors can access three large canvases representing an invocation to first mass and the first colonial council, both located on the side walls. The third, in the center, of later accomplishment, stages the act of blessing of place and the mass of Espada Bishop, witnessed by the Captain General, the aristocracy and high officials of the colonial government.

Architecture

Considered the first neoclassical civil work in Havana, El Templete is a small building, with ten meters in front, seven meters on both sides and a height of nine meters. However, its elegant simplicity and accurate proportions, they print, according to literature, a monumental character to its facade.

The doric columns of the entrance support a decorated strip and a powerful auction in the center, of which there is an allusive inscription of the inauguration. The building is elevated on a staircase of three steps sculpted in “Jaimanitas” stone, being the interior marble floors.

Other inestimable components of the set are the iron spears fence with bronze pointed ends, with pillars topped by pineapple cups, introducing a tropical touch in the neoclassical conception.

Column of Cagigal

As an antechamber to El Templete, in its garden is the Column of Cagigal. According to the story, it was sent to be erected by the Governor of Cuba Francisco Cagigal in the year 1754, as a reminder of the first mass held in that place.

The aforementioned column consists of three faces, as an expression of the three provinces in which the Antillean Island was divided, and at its highest point was an image of the Virgen del Pilar, which is currently inside El Templete.

In this monument two texts were written, one in Latin and the other in the old Castilian language. The inscription in Latin was replaced in 1903 on the occasion of the restoration of the column, on the other that is a version of the old one, made by Dr. Juan M. Dihigo:

“Stop the step, walker; this place adorns a tree, a leafy Ceiba tree, rather I will say a memorable sign of prudence and ancient religion of the young city (…). It was held for the first time the meeting of the prudent councilmen more than two centuries ago: it was preserved by a perpetual tradition; however, he gave in to time. Look, then, and do not perish in the future Havanan faith. You will see an image made today on the stone, that is, the last one in November 1754.”

Ceiba of Desires

Ceiba del Templete is a tradition in the historic center of Havana. So much so, that every November 16th many Havana residents go to give it three laps, in clocks opposite direction, deposit there some money and make a wish.

Although the current tree is not the original, the tradition remains and gains force over the years. The Ceiba tree, column of Cagigal and Templete itself, represent a historical and socio — cultural ensemble that has become an undeniable symbol of the town of San Cristobal de La Habana, the pride of all the inhabitants of the capital.

An unmissable visit

For those who visit Old Havana, getting to Plaza de Armas means contacting the architectural beauty and the historical legacy of our “wonder city”. In this sense El Templete resurfaces omnipotent despite its small size and is accompanied by other museums that also deserve the presence of Cubans and foreigners: Plaza de los Capitanes Generales, Palacio del Segundo Cabo and Castillo de la Real Fuerza (Castle of the Royal Force).

Originally published at havanaprivatesuite.com.

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