Iceland: The Land of Fire and Ice (and Puffins, and Waterfalls, and Elves…)
Iceland punches way above its size in terms of the sheer scale of the country’s natural beauty. This island nation is better described as a grand national park, unique both in the quantity of natural wonders (amazing waterfalls, scenic hikes, dramatic coastline, glaciers, and active volcanoes) but also the accessibility of its sites. Some of the best views available on the planet can be found via a short walk or by simply pulling off to the side of the road.
However, focusing solely on Iceland’s natural beauty would deny the country its rightful respect as home to the world’s first parliamentary government (930 AD) and launching point for viking expeditions that would eventually discover the shores of North America almost 500 years before Christopher Columbus. Tiny, adorable fishing villages dot the rugged coastline, often alongside some of the most advanced sustainable energy production facilities in the world.
In a phrase, Iceland did not disappoint.
Living That #VanLife
The best way to experience even a fraction of Iceland’s natural sites is by road. The tiny country boasts one national road, aptly named Route 1, that rings the island and connects its main towns. Smaller, branch roads connect the interior, many of them single-lane, unpaved, and pitted with water-filled potholes. Like many before us, we rented a camper van that allowed us to both cover a lot of ground as well as save money on lodging. We went with CampEasy, a caravan outfitter that turned out to be true to its name. There are hundreds of campgrounds along Iceland’s roads and we were able to simply pull into one nearby as we ended each day’s adventure.
The van life has its pros and cons. The kids loved every part of it — cooking and eating our meals on a camping stove, sleeping in a lofted bed, spreading out inside during long drives, and limited bathing. But converting a living space to a sleeping space each night (then back again in the morning), washing dishes in campsites, and shared campsite showers and toilets gets old. Worst was getting out of the camper in the middle of the night and stepping into the 30-degree cold to use the toilet. But all-in-all, eight days and nights in a camper was just about perfect for us.
Reykjavik for a Minute
Because our flights were delayed by over a day, we only spent a few hours in Reykjavik. We rented scooters, which the kids loved, and wandered about the small capitol’s tourist district. The much anticipated highlight was a stop in the Icelandic Phallological Museum. Yep, we went to a museum that celebrated all things schlong related. With children. And it didn’t disappoint. Exhibits include pickled penis specimens from over 200 different species of animal (Meg posed next to the phallus of a sperm whale below) as well as dong-inspired works of art. I can’t begin to describe the contents of the gift shop.
Waterfalls and More Waterfalls
It’s hard to describe in words how much beauty we experienced. Among dozens of waterfalls, each of which would qualify as a national park, several stand out. Goðafoss impressed with its scale but also ease of access. Just off a main road, we parked and walked along each side of the falls within minutes. You can view the falls from all angles easily, including water so clear you can see through to the rock bed of the river both before and after the falls. Skógafoss was similarly accessible, grand in its size but also its symmetry. There is also a mildly challenging hike up to the top of the falls, followed by a meandering footpath up the plateau along the river and preceding falls that feed Skógafoss. Svartifoss and Stuðlagil are both striking examples of waterfalls cascading over cliffs made of hexagonal, basalt columns. But our favorite waterfall was Glymur. Glymur is the second highest waterfall in Iceland, at nearly 650 feet. The waterfall spills into a narrow slot canyon and feeds a river that twists through a rapid descent into the Hvalfjörður fjord below. But it’s the hike to the waterfall we loved most. Ascending from the basin of the fjord, the footpath navigated through a cave, across a rushing river (where we had to wade across, holding a steel cable, in knee-deep water), and up a progressively steep stone trail. This hike had it all. And the views at the end were equally amazing.
Other Sites of Unbelievable Natural Beauty
The highlight of the trip has to be Stuðlagil Canyon. This is one of those sites you see again and again on Instagram “travel porn” accounts. The canyon walls are made of near-vertical basalt columns, stretching 50 feet above water so unnaturally turquoise, you can barely believe it’s real. The canyon itself was actually underwater for most of its existence until the river that flows through it was dammed, causing water levels to recede and exposing an incredibly preserved, sheer valley of basaltic columns. We could have just sat there, staring at the walls and incredible water for hours. And our pictures almost do justice to the level of wonder this site actually creates.
Our trip also included several other highlights that were equally unique, secondary to the ones described only on a relative scale. Our first full day in Iceland took us on a ferry to Heimaey, one of the Westman Islands off the Southern coast. We saw Puffins, fishing and feeding their young in burrows along the steep cliffs and we hiked a volcano that last erupted in the 1970s.
Later in our trip, we visited the postcard-perfect fishing town of Husavik, where we took a whale-watching boat tour of the surrounding bay. However, the bigger draw to Husavik is that it was the filming location for the Will Farrell movie, Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga. Nearby, we waded in water fed by volcanic thermal springs to over 200 degrees fahrenheit at Myvatn Nature Baths.
While we were somewhat disappointed in the risks our guide would allow us to take, hiking on a glacier in the Vatnajökull National Park was a lot of fun. We drank from glacial streams and walked in crampons across a literal mountain of ice. Later that same day, we were more impressed by the beauty of Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. We toured the lagoon by Zodiac boat, circling icebergs and the sheer wall of the glacier as it terminates near the ocean.
Most unexpected was our stop at a ninth century farmhouse in Glaumbær, restored to its original state with turf insolation, wooden tools, original furniture, and surrounding fields that are still farmed to this day.
Finally, we were also extremely lucky to see the Northern Lights twice, rare at this time of year. On the second occasion, Meg and I set our alarm to 1:30 AM on our last night in Iceland, an especially clear night. We got up, dressed, and left our hotel to find the sky lit up with green waves. It was a fitting end to our amazing time in Iceland.
In all, we were blessed by the elves (a recent poll reported that more than half the residents of Iceland believe they exist) with clear blue skies for all but one of our days. This is truly fortunate when you consider the volatility of the climate of Iceland.
Kicking off a World Tour With a Bang
All great concerts start their set with a total banger to get the crowd on their feet and in the mindset for the rest of the show. For our year-long world tour, Iceland was a similar opening act. The pace was fast and furious, snapping us out of the mindset from the months of preparation and thrusting us directly into the full experience. We left Iceland with dirty bodies and bags full of dirty laundry but primed for the adventures that await.
Stuff we recommend
Rent a camper van from CampEasy. These guys are pros and our check-in and return processes ran like clockwork. They pick you up at the airport and run you back. And they got all you need, and a bunch of stuff you don’t.
Fjallakaffi Campground in Möðrudalur. Don’t ask me how to pronounce any of it. But we stumbled on this dreamy campground in the middle of the northern highland of Iceland and it was exactly what we needed. The restaurant was cozy and its food delicious. The sod-insulated cabins line a campground that looks out over an incredible landscape.
Yeah… you should go to the dong museum.
Zodiak boat tour of Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. This was awesome. We did it near sunset and it was just beautiful seeing the sun glint off the floating icebergs and the glacial wall that feeds the lagoon. We saw seals swimming around the lagoon including one that perched and posed for us on one of those icebergs.
RIB (rigid inflatable boat) whale watching in Húsavík. We missed the high season for catching humpbacks, only seeing a couple, more native but camera shy minke whales. But Skjálfandi Bay is gorgeous, calm, and surrounded by beautiful low mountains.
Glaumbær Farm and Museum. This was a totally unexpected find. We spent a couple hours there, exploring the different exhibits and learning about how farmers lived in the far North of Iceland for centuries.
