The Heart of Sfax, Tunisia: People of the Fish Market
An explosion of color permeates the hustle and bustle of the medina fish market in Sfax, Tunisia. The ninth-century mud-brick walls of the “old city” contain the pungent smell of octopus tentacles, sharks, clams and more kinds of Mediterranean fish than the average buyer could name. It’s only men who sell their wares behind the fish-strewn counters, but they range in age from a young boy with a baby face struggling to carry a full bucket to an old man with a face beaten by the sea and weathered by the sun. Every fish seller’s story is different: One has the best octopus, someone else has the best tuna, another has bought a small shark from a fisherman and now proudly displays it on the counter before him. Sfax’s residents don’t usually buy fish from a fixed seller, but it’s common knowledge who peddles the best quality of each type of fish. In front of a very small counter near the center of the market sits a 78-year-old man named Ali, whose blue-rimmed brown eyes have seen clients pass his counter for over 60 years. Although he has worked four days every week for decades, he stands upright with a wide grin and a fierce handshake. For him, selling fish is not a job, habit or hobby — it’s a style of living. Peaceful and matter-of-fact, Ali says he is too passionate about his job to ever retire and that he will likely continue to sell his fish for the rest of his life. Ali’s children already help their father at work, and he feels confident that his family will continue his legacy.
Amir, a 16-year-old seller who seems older than his years, is seated on a narrow counter not too far from Ali. A young man with a mischievous smile and unruly eyebrows, he wears an electric-blue watch and a “harkous” tattoo of the first letter of his girlfriend’s name. He has been working here for three years, and he comes every day except Monday, when the city’s medina is closed. For him, selling fish is just a hobby — his father is the real owner of the counter. Amir’s father wakes up every day at 5:00 a.m. to buy from the fishermen, but Amir usually wakes up a few hours later and heads directly to the fish market. With a sudden smile, Amir calls out “Hamdullah!” from his casual position atop the counter. Business is going well, and he says he sees himself working here for the rest of his life.
Amin’s and Amir’s accounts are just two examples of all the stories that lie behind counters full of fish. The market hasn’t changed much in past years. What really changes are the stories. Each seller is living his own narrative in a place buzzing with orderly chaos — something one would be hard-pressed to find in a supermarket. The people of Sfax visit the local market not only to buy fish, but to meet like-minded souls, to continue relationships and, most of all, to experience the heart of their city.
Originally published at www.haydenelizabethfield.com on July 20, 2014.
