The Ultimate Nîmes Travel Guide
I thought I would keep the travel thread alive by writing this blog on my recent trip to Nîmes, South of France.
Not heard of it? Neither had I.
After securing a new ‘big girl’ job in York and realising I should do something with my last few weeks of unemployed freedom, I roped my dad into coming away with me.
Before we knew it, we were off to see some of the best ancient Roman ruins outside of Italy. Little did we know what else the historic hub of Nîmes would have in store for us.
Beyond its magnificent architecture, Nîmes has a special quality about it that I think can be attributed to the intimacy of its sprawling streets, unspoiled by large crowds, the quality of its food, and the babylonian gardens at the Jardin de La Fontaine. The city is a humble place, unaware of how beautiful it truly is.
It charmed me, and I think it will you too.
In this blog post, I list the best food & drink spots, entertainment and historical attractions the city has to offer, as well as sprinkling in a few of my own anecdotes.
Food and drink
Bistrot De L’Horloge: Located very centrally, just a five minute walk from the Amphitheatre, Bistrot De L’Horloge makes a great midday pit stop. Everything here is fresh and flavoursome, made even better by the cool mist that sprays from the overhead parasols every few minutes.
The standout was definitely the “fresh smoothie”, made up of strawberries, mint and ice (sound’s simple but it’s so delicious). The courgette quiche and lemon sugar pancake are also honourable mentions.
Le Chabanais: For slightly fancier haunts, head to Le Chabanais, where you can indulge in fine food, wine and hip-hop. There was something particularly special about this place. It had an air of excellence about it, solidified by the ‘Noma’ cookbook standing like a proud patron on the bar.
At first, we didn’t know what to expect. The menu felt perhaps too ambitious for the eclectic, casual environment we were sitting in but, lo and behold, it was magnificent. The kind of food where you can’t help but smile when you take a bite. Dad, ever the critic, said that the quality was on par with what he had eaten at Michelin star restaurants.
Hats off to the head chef, Emmanuel Avesque, and his team.
The standout for us was the “Mediterranean sea bream with candied chilli pepper, coconut milk, cilantro and rice chips”. The “Greek cake with yoghurt, passion curd, orange syrup and pistachio” was also quite something.
The Bird: This restaurant is home to possibly the best burger I have ever eaten — the self-titled “bird burger,” complete with streaky bacon, caramelised onions and goat’s cheese. It was seriously melt-in-your-mouth delicious and a solid choice for your next trip to Nîmes.
Les Halles de Nîmes: All roads lead to… Les Halles de Nîmes. With every city street in Nîmes leading to this local produce market, you are bound to stumble across it on your trip. Home to over one hundred craftsmen and shopkeepers, this market has everything you could possibly want and more. Dad and I picked up a fresh baguette, cheese and cherries- perhaps an odd pairing, but it made a lovely mid afternoon snack.
Entertainment
Thursdays in Nîmes: We didn’t realise it before arriving, but we timed our trip perfectly to coincide with the 30th anniversary of “Les Jeudis de Nîmes”- translated to, ‘Thursdays of Nîmes’. This annual celebration sees artists, musicians, and sellers flock to the streets and squares of Nîmes throughout July and August. The city was positively bustling, and dad and I had great fun exploring.
Festival de Nîmes: If this wasn’t enough, the Festival de Nimes was also in full swing. Originated in 1997, the annual event brings the biggest names in music to the iconic Arènes de Nîmes. The best part? You can listen to it for free by perching just outside the Arena. This year, the likes of James Blunt, Eric Clapton and Pattie Smith took to the stage.
History
The initial inspiration for our visit and the beating heart of Nîmes is its marvellous history. Originally the capital of a Gaulish tribe in 121 BCE and an important outpost in the Roman Empire, Nîmes’ historical roots run deep and are evidenced all throughout the city.
The crown jewel? The city’s 2,000-year-old Arènes de Nîmes.
Arènes de Nîmes: The amphitheatre, thought to have been built around 100 CE following the construction of Rome’s Colosseum, is one of the best-preserved amphitheatres in the world. One of the highlights of my trip was watching my dad’s eyes light up as he stepped inside and ran his hand over the original stonework- I owe my love of history entirely to him.
Details we loved: the two bull sculptures that man the main entrance to the arena.
Maison Carrée: Recently recognised by UNESCO, the Maison Carrée is a 1st century AD Roman temple that is, in part, responsible for the dissemination of Augustus’ ideological program that turned Ancient Rome from a republic to an empire. My favourite feature of the building was its dedication to the “princes of Youth,” the presumptive heirs of Augustus.
Jardin de La Fontaine: Thought to be the very first public gardens in Europe, the Jardin de La Fontaine combines all that is beautiful in Nîmes. Think roman ruins meets botanic gardens, freshwater ponds and sculptures. After collecting a modest (but beautiful) lunch of bread, cheese and cherries (mentioned above), dad and I had a stroll around the park, winding our way up to the Tour Magne and Temple de Diane.
Temple de Diane: The Temple de Diane is an enigmatic monument, thought to have been built around the 1st century AD under Augustus. The building is mostly exposed and partly claimed by nature- most excitingly, it is free to explore. Although its origins are unclear, the temple now stands as a romantic emblem to the Roman Empire.
Details we loved: the series of five rectangular niches topped with triangular and circular pediments on the north wall- we noticed similar decorations on other buildings around the city.
Tour Magne: If you’re scared of heights, stay clear of this one. Originally a Celtic tower, emperor Augustus had the Tour Magne doubled in size to serve as a 28m high watchtower over the city of Nîmes. After climbing the 140 steps to the top, you can enjoy (or try to) the panoramic views over the city.
As with all great cities, the best thing to do would be to simply explore and see what you stumble across.
In a city like Nîmes, it’s easy to spend your days strolling down the open boulevards, picking out fresh delicacies at the market and taking in the thousand-year-old sights.
I hope this has inspired you to book that ticket.
