About Hiking Mount Cameroon and the most insane Race in the World
Cameroon, also known as L’afrique en miniature stands out in Africa due to its diverse natural endowments. One of the most amazing features you will love to visit in Cameroon is the highest summit in Central and Western Africa — Mount Cameroon.
Mount Cameroon, also called Fako (=summit) in the local Bakweri language, is located in the South-West region of Cameroon right on top of Buea. It extends to Limbe and peaks at 4,095meters. It is an active volcano right off the western shore of Cameroon. During the 20th century there have been seven eruptions, the last one in 1999/2000. On the mountain, there are species of animals, birds, chimps, forest elephants, antilopes as well as very beautiful but rear species of flowers which grow at the fertile volcanic summit. Most hikes to the top take two or three days, but it’s no stroll in the park. The difficulty stems not only from its height (4095m), but from the fact that you are making a big change in altitude in a relatively short distance. Additionally, it seems that no one thought about switchbacks when planning the way up. The most popular route up the mountain, called the Guinness Route, is straight up (seriously). There are no zig-zags, no flat sections, and barely any chance for reprieve.
Before you Go
Hiking Mount Cameroon was one of the things that kind of made it to my would-be-nice-to-do list for Cameroon. Luckily, my volunteer friend Eva convinced me that we should definitely not miss this chance and set the stage for our 3-day hike up to the summit. I did not inform myself too much about the hike and other’s experience, because it pretty much ranged from “completely horrible and not worth it” to “one of the most mind-blowing things to do” and I rather wanted to make my own opinion in this regard. Eva, however, reached out to look for many information which turned out greatly helpful especially regarding packing. Also, she was already recommended an experienced and reliable guide by one of the past volunteers which turned out to be a great benefit to our whole experience on the mountain. Eva and me are currently volunteering in Buea. Hence, we had a little training plan to get used to the height at least a little bit which basically included going running 2–3 times per week. This turned out not to be the worst idea, since the hike is nothing like an easy stroll. But don’t be afraid, our tour guide said it would be more about mental strength and determination than physical ability (which I kind of agree with now).
Who to Go with
It turns out a guide and porters are compulsory. This means you have to arrange early enough someone that is certified to take you to the mountain and that will take your equipment and food for the hike. We went with Thompy a real local from Buea town, who is a tour guide for more than ten years and has great stories to share. Thompy arranged two befriended porters to come with us which completed our hike group. After only a few steps up the mountain we were highly greatful that they came and took care of all necessary equipment and buying food for the entire trip (tents, sleeping bags, drinking water, breakfast, dinner and snacks). Prices usually vary based on the time of the year (discount prices during the rainy season),the length of the trip and the size of the group. Prices can range between 200–500€ . There are many organizations that offer the mountain hikes, but I recommend to rely on recommendations, because the whole experience definitely also depends on the team that is accompanying you. Be careful with organizations that cut highly on cost, they tend to cut costs in the service they are offering and I promise you will be happy if someone is taking care of all equpiment and food when you are hiking up that mountain. In the following you find the contact details of our guide. He is also an experienced guide for other trips all around Cameroon so you should definitely contact him if you want to explore more:
Thompson Ekonde
Facebook: Thompy Ekonde Cta
Email: ekonde_thompson@yahoo.co.uk
Phone: +237 675875034, +237 698844812
What to bring
A daypack (the porter will take your big pack and you will hike only with your small one) which you should pack with:
- a headlamp
- warm & waterproof clothes (2–3 long pants, 2–3 fast drying tshirts / pullovers, underwear & socks, a cap/headband, a raincoat/windbreaker)
- good sneakers or well-worn hiking boots, flip-flops/sandals for resting
- towel, toilet paper, sunscreen, plasters
- snacks and water for the journey (usually provided by the guides)
Itinerary for a 3-Day Hike
Day 1
Our crew, Eva, two porters (Brandon & Thompson) and our guide Thompy met at 7am to pack our bags and take a taxi to the starting point up in Buea at 1100m. We started the hike around 8am. During the next two hours we passed a prison, moisty rainforest, maniok plantages and exotic fauna, before we arrive at Hut 1 (1775m) at 10am where we had a small snack including bananas and cookies.
Another one-and-a-half hour to intermediate hut (Hut 1,5) to take some rest while enjoying the first sunbeams and chocolate bread. The beginning of the hike through the mountain and rain forest was not too difficult until we popped onto the savannah. Another two hours up the steepest part, the so-called Wall, with hip-high “steps” and rocky paths until we reached Hut 2 (2850m), our camp for the next two days and the end of day 1 at around 2pm. We had a long nap in the sun and explored the newly built huts that will be soon give shelters to all hikers.
At Hut 2, the crew got a tent set up and dinner prepared. Given the basic supplies, our group prepared a delicious dinner with spaghetti, vegetable sauce and chicken. The fire burning in the middle was essential for heating us and our food. After dinner we had fun chatting over the fire each with a glass of Gin that we brought for the porters and our guide. The clear view over Buea and a big starry sky made a perfect finish of our first day.
Day 2
We slept in a small tent inside a hut in cozy sleeping bags, which allowed us to get well-rested before the longest part of the route. The day started with an early breakfast and freshly brewed mint tea shortly after 7am. After that, we began the hike up to the summit at around 8am. The first part was, at least according to our guide Thompy, not as steep as the rest of the journey. However, already this first part felt quite exhausting, most probably due to the height, which kind of frightened me for what else there would come until we would reach the summit. My worries were partly confirmed. It did not get easier and the last part up to the summit seem endlessly, but it is definitely manageable. From 3000 m until the summit, you will discover a typical volcanic landscape with volcanic black sand and craters, which is impressive and seems not from this world somehow. Also, it was quite chilly above 3000m, so definitly take some waterproof and warm cloths with you. We were lucky enough not to feel any altitude sickness or similar. The symphoms usually show around 3000m, and one of the other groups that was also on the mountain had to turn and never made it to the summit, because of the height differences. They did a 2-day tour and it seemed that their bodies could not handle the quick altitude change that well, which is why it is more recommendable to do the 3-day tour, especially during rainy season when the whether can be quite harsh.
After 2,5 hours we arrived at Hut 3. We made it to the last hut of the mountain. From here it was only another hour to the summit. We pushed onward. Our quads were burning, it started raining and the dense fog made it difficult to see. However, we eventually arrived putting together the last bits of energy in our bodies and were more than happy to stand right on top of Mount Cameroon.
The view from the top was a small dissappointment, because the fog made it very difficult to see almost anything and the heavy wind did not create the most pleasant atmosphere either. Nevertheless, the feeling of having arrived on top gave us new energy and after some quick memory shots, we started running down the summit across volcanic sands and basalt paths back to Hut 2, feeling our muscles, exhausted, soaked with rain and sweat, but very proud. The day finished with a delicious groundnut sauce dish for dinner and another chat around the fire with hot mint tea right from the mountain.
Day 3
In the morning of Day 3 our alarm rang at 6am. However, we already heard the rain hitting the roof of our hut. We decided to lay down for a little longer, hoping that the rain would stop soon. Unfortunately, the rain did not stop before we started our descend after a nice last breakfast at Hut 2 and packing up all our backpacks. We expected the rain to make the way down even more slippery and exhausting than it was anyways plus making us soaking wet. However, it was not as bad as expected, the way down was difficult, but not impossible and through being in constant movement it also did not get cold because of the rain. The last part down to Buea town back through the rain and mountain forest seemed endlessly long, our feet burned, our necks hurt from concentrating on the path, and our minds danced somewhere between exhaustion and pure excitement to have mastered Mount Cameroon.
Good to know
- At the beginning of every year (February), the local community with the help of the government and local companies organize the Mount Cameroon Race of Hope in which, athletes sign in for a marathon to the peak of the mountain and back. For me, it is still unimaginable, how a human being can complete this gruelling marathon up and down the mountain with a staggering winning time of only four and a half hours. We took three days and I could not move properly several days after — still a long way to go for me.
- The local Bakweri call the volcano Mongo ma Lobo, which can be translated to Mountain of Thunder. During the hike you will learn a lot about the ancient stories and legends that are attached to the mountain and its god Ebassa Moto. Ebassa Moto means half-human, half stone. He created the mountain after he broke up with Nalowa, the godess of the sea. He is the ruler and protector of the mountain and spitts out hot lava if he gets angry (as happened last in 1999/2000). Locals used to sacrifice Albinos to please the god and worship him. Until today, white sheep or chickens are still sacrificed in his honor.
- The first person registered to climb the mountain was the German Gustav Mann in 1861 (the Mann’s Spring on 2440m is called after him) and the British Sir Richard Burton.
Overall, I think everybody who has the chance to visit Cameroon should try to make it to Mount Cameroon. The hike is tough, yet rewarding with beautiful landscape, great views and many stories to hear!
