Visiting Valladolid
What are my takeaways after completing the Erasmus Program in Spain?
I’m Henry Mitchell, a Computing graduate from Bournemouth University. I recently returned from a 10-week traineeship in Valladolid (Spain) in a role as an English Language teacher. The experience really exceeded expectations and I’m super grateful for it.
I became interested in the Erasmus scheme in 2019 in KG01 (Talbot Campus, BU) where some students held a talk about working abroad. It really felt like an exciting opportunity, that the university would organise to send you away to work in another country. However, due to the pandemic, my search did not begin until around January 2022. By this time I had finished my studies, but thankfully, BU extended the scheme to recent graduates.
Finding the right opportunity really did take some time and planning. I felt like due to Brexit, the opportunities were much fewer and further in between. I have to thank Mikaela Yurukova and Meghan Ellis, who worked at the global mobilities team and provided me with support throughout that long planning and searching process. They were always there to listen to my frustrations and to help by answering any questions that they could.
In the end, my opportunity came from a friend I made at BU. Kaitlin had recently returned from Spain so I reached out to her to get some advice and insight. When talking about her experience in Valladolid I was intrigued. She offered to put me in touch with the school that she worked for and upon following up they offered me a job to work with them. And so, a whole year after starting my search, I booked my flight to Madrid for March 11th 2023.
The first few weeks — early challenges.
When I arrived in Valladolid, I immediately tried and failed to communicate with my broken Spanish. Tasked with navigating to my Airbnb, I struggled to tell the taxi driver outside Campo Grande train station where to go. In the end, I showed him the address on my phone. In typical British fashion, however, I did find a way to ask about the weather.
When I first got my flat I think it started to feel more real. My mind moved to thinking and worrying about all the things I’ve got to do. The concerns, challenges, and uncertainties. How would I make new friends? Would I be able to get by with my poor Spanish skills? Where is the nearest supermarket? It can feel overwhelming at the beginning but thankfully there was also a lot to be excited about. I was very keen to meet some new people, explore my new surroundings and try some Spanish food.
I met my flatmate Paula and her elderly dog “Frida”. Aka “Patatas Fritas”, (potato chips) or simply Patata (potato) to her friends. She (Paula) had a beginner level of English and I had a beginner level of Spanish so by switching between the languages we usually managed to overcome any language barrier. But sometimes gestures and/or Google translate were needed! This constant exposure to the language was actually a really good thing for learning essential phrases.
When I got into the classroom to start teaching I surprised myself with my public speaking ability; it was better than I had anticipated. This was significant because I had considered this to be a weakness of mine, but it wasn’t the case and by putting myself out of my comfort zone like this I had disproved an unhelpful belief. I think that the warm welcome I received from my classes played a big part in reassuring me and, ultimately, in dispelling the myth. And in the months that followed, my confidence only grew as I developed skills that improved my teaching ability. I learned how to improvise when needed, to present in an engaging way and to better prepare my classes.
I like to think that my students (mostly aged between 20–65) made my job easy because they always gave me their attention, curiosity and enthusiasm. These traits made me feel relieved and welcomed, and also alerted me to a significant culture shock: Spanish directness. They had no hesitations to get stuck in and to ask whatever might be on their mind. In lesson #1 we tackled:
- If you studied Computing why are you teaching English?
- Do you know any Spanish? Show us, show us now!
- What’s your opinion on Brexit?
- Do you have a girlfriend?
- Are you moving to Spain?
I think that in the UK it’s common to wait until the third or fourth time that you meet someone to bring up questions like these, so I was a little surprised and uncomfortable initially. But when I understood that it comes from a desire to connect and understand the person in front of them and that openness and directness simply gets you there faster, it then became something I really valued. I adapted and I let go of those UK mannerisms, and found, consequently, I was able to connect with others much easier.
Settled and Thriving!
Feeling settled came once I started making meaningful connections. Once I was integrated into a network of people; who had common goals, and with whom I could relate then things became much easier. For example, one of the first friends I made after arriving was Eve! And she showed me some of her favourite tapas bars and came with me to tour the museums. She won my heart though when she gifted me a Freddo bar.
Then a few weeks into my time in Valladolid, I started spending more time going out with the French teacher Anthony. He had a lot more experience living in Spain and a better grasp of the language so he was a great person to learn from. I would ask him for advice and grill him for information about the culture. I think that thanks to Anthony I got a better idea of how to “do as the Romans do” and (potentially) fool people into thinking that I belong.
We enjoyed getting breakfast together and taking coffees and cañas (small beers). Something that made me smile was that, when ordering a drink, it is common to be served with a small complimentary side (which could vary depending on the place). I’m tempted to introduce this idea of a “ surprise snack” to the UK. I think it would be a hit! :)
From then on, I took the opportunity to mix with other teachers in the city who had moved to Valladolid from all over to teach their given language. It was surreal and really fun to meet people from France, USA, and Australia. But, like me, they didn’t have all the local context and understanding which I was very interested to learn more about so I became motivated to interact more with locals too.
Marian, Izar, Cecilia and Alba I met through the school and were so friendly. Always keen to meet for a coffee and a chat. They could help to answer questions that I had about what’s typical in Spain, funny sayings and idioms, or what’s worth travelling to see nearby. Some of my students also offered to show me around Valladolid or some of their local pueblos (towns) like Olmedo or Medina del Campo!
On top of this, I made a habit of attending “intercambios”. These are language exchange evenings where you can meet all kinds of people who are motivated to practice new languages and to meet others from different cultures. Now that it was a high priority of mine to learn some survival Spanish, this was an inviting and incredibly useful resource. I liked that when I got tired or needed a break, I was able to join an English-speaking table and rest. To escape for a moment, breathe and socialise in my native language.
I have to recommend it because it helped me in many unexpected (and expected) ways. For example:
- To meet people who are open-minded and culturally curious
- To learn from locals what’s worth seeing and doing
- To build up my emergency Spanish
- To find out more about local history and politics
In future, I’m going to seek out and chat with the locals more often. In my experience, they can steer you away from the underwhelming tourist spots and towards those hidden gems. A great example of one of these locals was my new friend Borja!
Some quick highlights — that must be mentioned!
One of my favourite memories was the day that Borja drove us to the breathtaking Duratón national park. Where we rented kayaks, paddled up the river, and took in the sights. Vultures circled overhead and huge cliffs towered over us, it felt adventurous and inspiring. But at the same time, it was so peaceful and relaxing too. I was fascinated by the castles, ruins and the occasional hermitage (remotely located monastery) that decorated the landscape above us.
Unlike my trip to Hoces del Duratón, my next standout memory wasn’t planned. I had been attending an intercambio at a bar in the city centre, and upon stepping foot outside I was quite surprised with what was happening in the streets.
People were parading in these processions covered head to toe in white robes. Accompanied by the growing sound of approaching drums and a band of trumpets and brass; the result was quite a haunting atmosphere. I looked on in a combination of disbelief and fascination, taking everything in. The sombre and melancholic feeling that hung in the air I think brings up emotions in all onlookers. For me, it really pulled me into the present and caused me to acknowledge that I was in a different country and that I should appreciate the moment and the opportunity.
Instead of easter egg hunts and excessive chocolate eating, during the Easter period, Spaniards might gather to watch these processions and later indulge in some Torrijas — which is kinda similar to French toast. In Olmedo, with Borja, I completely indulged and tried one that was loaded up with cream on top. It was sickeningly delicious. :)
Semana Santa (Holy Week) is full of processions, like this one, peaking with the largest celebration on Easter Sunday. They carry crosses and large wooden sculptures of Jesus and Mary - some of which have been preserved and been part of the tradition since the 16th century!
On the last weekend, the streets were closed off and police were out to keep order as the city centre filled up with people. Many of the apartments above had religious murals hung from their balconies to represent the occasion, and in the main square, you could buy a ticket for a front-row seat.
To close off the Holy Week, you could expect to see all the different brotherhoods coming together, wearing black, purple and green robes and all kinds of flags and banners to represent their congregation. Naturally, I got stuck in the main square with everything cornered off around me until the events concluded, oops.
Reflections and goodbyes
I feel proud to have represented the UK in this Spanish school in Valladolid, sharing my experiences and cultural insights with the students, while also preparing them for their comprehension and oral exams. I also feel proud of myself for succeeding in this new role. It was an adjustment, to say the least.
I was surprised by how much I enjoyed the day-to-day challenges of teaching. Especially, anticipating how a class will respond to your lesson plan, and then tailoring it or improvising to best fit the students; whether that’s to fit their learning style, personality, or something different. I became very curious to find out more about what skills were required to be a good teacher and it helped that I had some approachable and kind mentors who were great examples of that. I could take new ideas and lessons away from shadowing them, and test them out within my own classes.
Naturally, in my first few lessons, I was a combination of enthusiastic and nervous, optimistic and excited. I noticed that how I carried myself completely set the tone for the next hour, and so going forward I decided that I wanted to maintain that initial enthusiasm. Because I saw that students responded to it and I thought that if I was in their shoes, I’d probably want someone who at least sounds interested in what they’re talking about!
It was especially fun discussing and dissecting my own culture, and often laughing at the absurdity of it (having never questioned it much before). For example, think about the phrase we might say to get someone to be quiet: “Put a sock in it”. Now why do we say that?
My coworker Cecilia asked me “What would you rate your time here in Valladolid out of 10?”, causing me to stop and think back to my expectations and goals in the first place:
- To meet new people (check!)
- To learn a new language (sorta check!)
- To learn about a new culture (check!)
- To get the chance to do some travelling (check!)
I told her “I’d probably give it a 10/10”. :)
In such a short time, I was able to make some really meaningful connections with the people that I had met. The work culture and school environment were fantastic and I felt completely supported by my coworkers. Then there’s also my students who (mostly) seemed to enjoy my classes. I wasn’t exactly rushing to pack my bags again for England.
Advice for future Erasmus (or Turing) goers.
A good first step is to bend the ear of an expat, exchange student or Erasmus goer who has already moved to and adjusted to the lifestyle of the place where you are thinking of going. They can tell you what to expect and might offer some useful tips and insights. By doing this I met Anthony, and with his help, I was able to find myself a network quite quickly upon moving.
He added me to a WhatsApp group full of teachers who were in the exact same position: teaching a foreign language in Valladolid. And this was how I initially met a lot of my new friends. Facebook can also be good for this, for finding groups of foreigners, living in your desired location, who have been through a similar experience.
While I have written about many of the ways that this was a great experience for me, don’t be fooled, there are a lot of challenges to overcome too! Finding an opportunity, overcoming VISA logistics, organising accommodation, staying safe, making friends, learning a new language. It was difficult at times, absolutely! (Navigating healthcare systems in another country can be a nightmare too). But don’t let this deter you, look for people who can help you break down these problems and ask them for their support to solve them.
For me, these challenges were only overwhelming when I insisted on tackling them alone. I’ve learned how important it is to have allies in your corner who are knowledgeable and can guide you when needed. ¡Pues, mucha suerte y hasta luego! :)
