A Guide To Photo Finish Live Virtual Horse Racing

Hey horse racing fans! Welcome to our guide for Photo Finish Live virtual horse racing, the official game of the Kentucky Derby. We want your experience to be fun and successful so have put as much useful information into this guide as possible. The initial steps are to get you racing quickly. Then we dig deep into breeding, strategy, tokenomics, and nuances of this incredible game of strategy and skill. If you have additional questions or want to connect with other members of the community, we welcome you to join the community Discord.

STEP 1: ACCOUNT SIGNUP

If you haven’t already, signup for an account at Photo Finish Live by clicking here.

STEP 2: BUY DERBY

As Photo Finish Live lets you own virtual race horses and race for real money, you must purchase “DERBY”, the in-game token (which can be cashed out anytime). To do so, click the horseshoe icon at the top right of your screen:

then go to “Fund Wallet”. Here are the options for funding your wallet:

1. Credit Card (only for verified users who have gone through the optional KYC process)
2. Solana USDC (select Phantom or Solflare Wallet)

$1.00 = 80 DERBY and that will not fluctuate. How much do you need? It may be worth circling back to this once you see the available horses for sale which we help with below.

TIP — If you have ETH, MATIC, or other crypto, here’s a guide to getting DERBY with it.

STEP 3: BUY A HORSE

Below is a step by step to purchasing a horse but do your research first so you make a very informed decision. When you’re ready, be sure to check out our Strategy Guide for Purchasing Your First Race Horse.

1. Head to the “Marketplace” tab at the left of your screen.

You will see a list of horses with each looking something like this:

Let’s talk about what all of this information means:

A. See that green A- at the top left? That’s the horse’s “grade”.

Each horse has a Grade (D is weakest then C, B, A, and finally SSS is the strongest), attributes (these are hidden until retirement), and preferences. The launch of the game in May 2023 saw only B- to S+ horses in existence meaning the best (and worst) horses will be bred in the future. The lower the grade of a horse, the cheaper it tends to be and the lower the entry fees and purse sizes are. Don’t be scared off by low grade horses though as each grade of horse can be competitive and potentially profitable within certain race types, it’s simply how big of stakes you want to take part in. Think of it as choosing to start out playing high school ball, college ball, or professional ball. They’re simply different tiers but you can have a great time in each and breed your way up over time.

B. The 00 next to it is the horse’s “Fleet Figure” (FF) which represents its strength in racing. We will talk about FF’s later in this guide.

C. “Robin Styles” is this horse’s name. You receive one free initial name from “Foal of [Mare Name]”. Thereafter, the name cannot be changed unless you pay 100 $CROWN.

D. “Age 2” is the horse’s age. Horses can race at age 2, can retire from racing as early as age 3 to breed, and they MUST retire at age 9. Our virtual horses live until their early 20’s at which point they die. So pay careful attention to a horse’s age!

E. A “Filly” or Mare is a female horse and “Colt” or Stud is a male horse. Fillies and colts race the same, the difference is in the breeding. Fillies can breed once per season (4 real life weeks) and get to keep any foals so they tend to be priced higher than colts. Colts can breed up to 35x per season and are paid stud fees by filly owners.

F. “Big Brain Stables” is the name of the stable that owns this horse. If you click through to the horse and then to the stable name on that page, you can see all their horses.

G. As you can see, this horse is ready to race. That means it is NOT retired. If you want to race a horse NOW make sure it’s not retired and is at least two years old.

H. The price is 24,000 DERBY which equals $300 (remember, 80 DERBY = $1.00)

I. The “stars” are the horse’s track “preferences”. The more yellow stars, the better but they’re not the most powerful stats for a horse. This particular horse prefers right turning, dirt surface, soft condition tracks. More on preferences:

Surface: There are two types of surface in Photo Finish Live, Dirt and Turf. Horses that aren’t suited to the surface of the race track tend to not do as well as those that are. They CAN still win on the other surface though, just not as often.

Direction: There are two race directions in Photo Finish Live, Right and Left. Horses that aren’t suited to the direction of the race track tend to not do as well as those that are.

Condition: There are two primary track conditions in Photo Finish Live, Firm and Soft. Horses that aren’t suited to the condition of the race track tend not to do as well.

As such, when you buy a horse, those with high preferences tend to be more expensive (and more popular in the breeding barn). And when racing them, you usually want to run on preference. But again, horses CAN hit the podium off preference it just takes more strategy.

Tip — Preferences definitely matter, but the horse’s underlying (hidden) stats make a bigger difference in its racing. More on those below.

J. Career Summary — the horse above has not raced. Be careful about buying horses that have never raced without checking out who their parents are to see the chance of them being good racers. Note that Gen 0 horses won’t give much info here as their parents are not race horses, but the original profile picture (PFP) NFTs that were matched up to create the Gen 0 horses. And remember, just because a horse has a bad record doesn’t mean it’s a bad horse. Maybe the previous owner raced them poorly and they’re a diamond in the rough!

HOW can you find a horse’s parents? Click on their name then go to the “bloodline” tab and you’ll see all kinds of information about their parents including their attributes (if their parents weren’t PFPs)! What are attributes?

Stats — In addition to grades, each horse will have various stats (sometimes called attributes). However, these attributes are HIDDEN until you retire the horse. Part of the strategy of this game is figuring out your horse’s strengths and weaknesses (in part determined by their stats) by looking at their parents and racing them, just like real life horse racing.

Start: Start is the speed at which the horse leaves the gate. It’s the most powerful stat at 4 furlongs, but seems to drop off in longer races. Furlongs are the traditional unit of measurement in horse racing (1F equals ⅛ of a mile). Races are run between 4 and 12 furlongs. In a 4f race, you want to race a horse that has a high start attribute.

Speed: the pace of the horse once it gets into its stride. Speed is most pronounced in short and middle distances, but appears to drop off a little when races get long.

Stamina: the horse’s ability to keep running without tiring. The longer the race the more important stamina is. It starts to become valuable in middle races.

Finish: the horse’s ability to push for the finish line after a hard effort. It is the strongest stat at 12 furlongs, but doesn’t become important until the longest distances.

Heart: the horse’s competitive spirit. The closer a horse is running to a competitor, the more influential the heart stat is. Heart appears to be most beneficial in longer races with large and competitive fields.

Temper: Think of temper as consistency. Horse’s with strong temper are more likely to perform up to their potential over the course of a career. Horses always have better and worse days, but a well tempered horse rarely gets shaken and doesn’t drop off as much when it does.

Just because parents had good stats doesn’t guarantee the foal will, but it certainly increases the chances.

When a horse RETIRES, you’ll see all its stats and they’ll look something like this:

This was an S grade horse but as you can see, each attribute varies.

TIP — We strongly recommend watching completed races here: https://photofinish.live/races/history before you buy your first horse. Observe what kind of horses did well in what sort of races and which did poorly. Begin to formulate a strategy that incorporates your budget.

STEP 4: GOING SHOPPING

Now that you have a general understanding of horses, you can go shopping. Click on the “filters” button on the marketplace screen which lets you filter horses by everything we’ve talked about and more.

There is also this filtering option to the right of that “filters” button:

STEP 5: IMPORTANT TIPS

1. Horses can’t race until age 2 so if you buy a “foal” you’re going to have to wait up to 8 weeks to race. The reason for this is 4 weeks in real life is equal to one year of a horse’s life in the game so if the horse is a newborn, it’ll be 8 weeks until they can race.

2. Retired horses can no longer race (only breed) so be sure not to buy one if you’re wanting to race.

3. Horses are automatically retired at age 9 and die between ages 20 and 25, so take into account their age when determining if a price is fair. You might think twice about buying an 18 year old horse to breed unless the price is fantastic.

4. If you want a colt to race that will also do well in the breeding barn, for B and A grades, you’re going to want at least 8.5 preferences in most cases. However, in these early seasons we’ve seen very little studding with B grade horses so keep that in mind.

5. Gen 1+ horse’s have a peak age where they race optimally and then decline thereafter. Is the horse being sold because it’s past its peak age? Did you find a diamond in the rough for a great price because the owner didn’t realize it hasn’t hit its peak yet? Use the charts tab and the Fleet Figures to help determine this.

6. Every horse has a preferred “distance preference”. Did the owner run the horse at 4–6 furlongs when it prefers 10–12 resulting in a poor record? The charts tab can give some good hints here. Our opinion is that running a horse at their distance preference makes a BIG difference, often moreso than running them on surface, turn, or condition preference.

TIP — MOST horses peak as racers between 3 and 5 years of age but there are outliers.

STEP 6: REGISTER FOR A RACE

Once you’ve purchased a horse, it’s time to race! Go to the “My Stable” tab at the left:

STEP 7: NAME YOUR HORSE

This will bring up a list of all the horses in your stable. Click on your horse. If it isn’t yet named, name it.

STEP 8: RACE ON PREFERENCE

Take note of the stars below the name of your horse. Again, these are its “preferences”. As you can see by the horse below, its preferences are right turning tracks that are dirt and the preferred condition is firm. You usually want to race on preference as it may give you an edge over the competition, at least until you delve deeper into the many strategies.

STEP 9: SELECTING A RACE

Now that we know our horse’s preferences, let’s select a race. There’s two ways to do this:

A. Click on the “Find Recommended Races” link as shown in the image above on your horse’s page. This will automatically filter for races your horse is eligible for. You still want to filter these races for race type and often for grade restrictions as outlined below.

B. Or go the races tab at the left:

STEP 10: FILTERING

On the races tab, you’ll see all the races that are starting soon, those that can be wagered (picked) on, and those that are still open to entry. Use the race filter on this page to find the races that fit your horse’s preferences. Click on the filters button:

STEP 11: TRACK TURN AND SURFACE

Add a filter for “Track Turn” and “Track Surface”. For the horse above, we selected right and dirt. Selecting those filters changes the races available on the main screen. For us, they’re all right turning and dirt tracks. Now we need to look at the weather forecast for each track to try to find one where the track is likely to be soft since that is what the pictured horse likes.

TIP: You can use “Save Filter” to save your preferred filters so you don’t have to manually enter them each time. Trust us, do this.

STEP 12: WEATHER AND SURFACE CONDITION

Check out the filtered races. Notice the weather icons and percentages? If a horse likes soft tracks, most of the time you want to select one where there is a 60% or higher chance of rain. If your horse likes firm tracks, do the opposite.

Think of conditions this way:

- Fast: biggest advantage for horses that prefer Firm

- Good: slight advantage for horses that prefer Firm

- Yielding: no advantage for any horses

- Soft: slight advantage for horses that prefer Soft

- Sloppy: biggest advantage for horses that prefer Soft

STEP 13: SELECTING RACE TYPES

Selecting the race type is critical for your horse. You can do this via the filter as well. You’ll notice there are DISTANCES for each race (in furlongs) and different race types. You’ll need to race your horse at various distances and pay attention to the various charts and its “Fleet Figures” to determine what distance it prefers. As for the race types, let’s break those down:

Graded Stakes (I, II, III) — These are the high stakes races. They cost more to enter and the purses are big. If you don’t have an S or S- grade horse, you probably want to stay away from these. If you’re a baller ready for the big time with your high grade horse, get ready for some heart pounding fun!

Grade Restricted — These races only allow certain grade horses in and are extremely important for most racers. It’s a great place for B and A horses to run without being beaten up by the big dogs. Click on the “Reqs” button to see the specific grades allowed for each race as you can accidentally have your B horse join a grade restricted race that allows all the way up to S- horses to enter if you’re not careful.

Maiden — Your horse can race in these until it gets its first win. Be careful as unless the race is Grade Restricted, your B or A horse may run against an S horse that has never won.

Handicap — Stronger horses with high preferences tend to do well in these races. Horses will have weight added to them to even the field a bit. As an example, this often allows A horses to be competitive with S horses.

Allowance — Races with specific registration criteria such as “Must have less than X wins” as well as criteria that cause your horse to carry extra weight and thus slow it down to even the field. All horse grades can do well here but it’s usually not a good idea to enter if your horse’s grade is below that is listed (example being racing an A- in an A to S- Allowance).

Stakes — Think of stakes as the tier before graded stakes. You’ll see all sorts of grades of horses here trying to determine if they’re good enough for the big time. Look for stakes races for your grade.

Claimers — These are races where people may “claim” your horse if they like it by paying a race-specific price. At present, claiming race tiers are 30000 to 250,000 DERBY so pay careful attention to the amounts. Lower tier horses will shine in these as no S horse would run in a $300 claimer so it should even the fields a lot. But be careful! Your prized horse could be claimed. So only race here if you’re ok with your horse being sold at the claiming price! We wrote a guide to Claiming Races if you want to learn more.

Juvenile — There are races of each type for juveniles (two year olds) as they don’t race with any other age group.

Here’s some popular race paths for various grades:

B horses: Grade restricted maiden until you win > grade restricted allowance > grade restricted handicap (if your horse is particularly strong). If your horse doesn’t do well in any of these, then very cheap Claiming races.

A horses: Grade restricted maiden until you win > grade restricted allowance > grade restricted handicap (if your horse is particularly strong) > grade restricted stakes > stakes. If your horse doesn’t do well in any of these, then Claiming races.

S- horses: Maiden until you win > allowance > handicaps > stakes > Grade III > Grade II > Grade I. If your horse doesn’t do well in any of these, then high price Claiming races.

S and above: > Maiden until you win > S to A+ Allowance Races, Stakes Races, Grade III > Grade II > Grade I. If your horse doesn’t do well in any of these, then high price Claiming races.

STEP 14: REGISTER YOUR HORSE

Register your horse in a race you think it’ll do well in, note the time, and come back later to watch it race. If you miss the race, you can always watch a replay.

TIP: You will receive some CROWN (the cryptocurrency token of the ecosystem) as a gift for entering EVERY race. These gifts can really add up and improve your profitability drastically. For a blog on how this works, please click here.

STEP 15: ANALYZE YOUR RESULTS

After the race, it’s time to do some analysis! First, if you didn’t watch your race, watch a replay. Observe how your horse runs. Did it start well and then fall back after 8 furlongs? Maybe it needs shorter races. Did it start slow and was just starting to pick up steam at the 9 furlong mark as the race ended? Maybe it prefers 10–12 furlong races.

The “charts” tab is your friend for all sorts of data on your horse.

You can also purchase a “race report” for 400 DERBY in the race result screen which provides insight into how your horse ran.

TIP: If you own 5 PFPs and link your account to a verified Discord account, you get race reports for free.

Click on your horse and check out the “Fleet Figures”. Does it give any hint on how you might better race your horse? The first number represents how well your horse ran against an imaginary top tier horse (the higher the number, the better). This number is especially good for monitoring your horse’s racing over time as every gen 1 and later horse has a hidden “peak age” where they perform best. For example, you can see the below horse peaked early and was dominant. But as he aged, his Fleet Figure slowly declined to the point he was no longer very competitive and was retired. The Fleet Figure can help you see trends forming so you can make good financial decisions.

The other three Fleet Figure numbers are where the horse was at the start, middle, and end of the race.

That helps give you hints to its preferred distance. And make no mistake, your horse has a preferred distance! For example, if you’re running a lot of 10–12 furlong races and you see these kinds of numbers:

1,3,7

2,2,8

1,4,11

That tells you that the horse is getting tired toward the end of the race. Try shorter races.

STEP 16: REST YOUR HORSE

Your horse will now be “exhausted” for 20 hours during which it cannot race. You can enter it in races during this time as long as the race starts after it’s done being exhausted. After the 20 hours there is then an additional four hours of “recovering”. If you race before it is “fully recovered”, there MAY be a chance of injury. Here’s the breakdown:

1. If it is a Gen 0 horse it cannot be injured.
2. For Gen 1+ horses, if they are 2–3 years old and you wait the full 24 hours, they cannot be injured.
3. For Gen 1+ horses, if they are 4 years old and you wait the full 24 hours, the risk of injury is very low.
4. For Gen 1+ horses, if they are 5–8 years old and you wait the full 24 hours, there is a small but growing risk of injury.
5. If you do not wait the full 24 hours, every age of horse (except Gen 0) can be injured.
6. Racing when not fully rested does not affect the horse’s performance on the track.

If a horse is injured, you have to pay a vet bill then wait a couple of days in order for it to be able to race again.

Important Notes

1. “Seasons” are four real life weeks long. Your horse ages one year per season.
2. Your horse must be retired in order to breed. Once retired, it can no longer race so when to retire is a highly strategic decision. Horses can be retired as early as age 3 and are force retired at age 9.
3. Your horse can breed until it dies in its early 20's.
4. Studs can breed 35 times per season and are paid for that right.
5. Fillies (mares) can breed once per season and keep the foal. They must pay a stud for the right to breed.
6. The breeding window is only open the first week of each season. New foals are born when the breeding window opens and can race two seasons later at age two.
7. There is a lot of variance in breeding. If you breed the same stud and mare 10 times, you’ll get 10 different foals.
8. When you make a stud available, anyone can breed with it.
9. The game will start with B- to S+ horses. The best (and worst) horses in this game will be bred over time. It’s anyone’s game!
10. If you own a filly and good matching stud, you can breed “in house” however there will still be a 8,000 DERBY ($100) fee.
11. Fees for breeding are 20% so if you charge 4000 DERBY to breed, the buyer will pay an additional 800 DERBY.
12. Breeding reports are extremely useful (this is another guide).

Breeding

As all horses die in their early to mid 20’s in Photo Finish Live, it is critical that you learn to breed. Smart breeding can take your small stable to an enormous one and as an example, this person turned one filly into over 200 horses in beta 1. In addition, the best horses in the game will be bred, they do not yet exist. YOU can breed the next grand champion.

How to Breed a Stud

Step 1 — Go to the “My Stable” tab at the left then select the stud you want to retire. Remember, he can no longer race once you retire him. Click on the retire horse button:

Step 2 — Once you retire the stud, you then need to send him to the breeding barn. Click on the “Put Out To Stud” button:

Step 3 — Enter the price you want to charge per breeding session. If you’re not sure how much to charge, go to the “breeding” tab at the left and search for horses similar to yours in grade and stats and price yourself accordingly. Once you click the “add listing” button, that’s it, your stud is now available to breed with.

How To Breed a Filly (Mare)

Step 1 — Retire the filly just like you’d retire a stud. Again, they will never be able to race again.

Step 2 — Go to “My Stable” and click on the filly you want to breed. Pay specific attention to its grade, stats, and preferences. Most of the time, you do not want to breed with a stud that is lower in grade, has worse stats, or poor preferences. As you can see below, this filly is A grade LTS (left turning, Turf, Soft preferences). So when we click “breed horse” we’ll be looking to find a similar or hopefully better stud for a fair price.

Step 3 — You’ll be redirected to the breeding barn where all the studs are. As we want to breed with a LTS stud, we’re now going to click on the filter button and set those preferences:

Step 4 — Using the filter above, we can see all the LTS studs, their grade, stats, and how much they’re charging to breed with. We want to find a grade A or higher stud with better stats at a fair price. Based upon all the results, we selected the A grade horse below because it has extremely high LTS preference stars which I like. Two A’s bred together can occasionally result in an A+ but we’d be perfectly happy with an A with improved preferences. On very rare occasion, we’ve seen two horses of the same grade breed a foal that jumped two sub grades (meaning the foal would be an S- in this example). It’s not uncommon for players to not focus so much on the preferences but breed with the highest grade they can afford. What is the best strategy? We can’t say.

Step 5 — Once you select the stud you want to breed with, it’ll take you to a confirmation page that shows a ton of stats for both horses. Be sure to check the bloodline and check to make sure you’re not inbreeding. Inbreeding in Photo Finish Live results in a severe penalty (your foal will be worse than the parents). You cannot share parents going back THREE generations otherwise there will be a penalty so be careful!

Step 6 — Once you’re comfortable, confirm the breed and that’s it! Your foal will be born at the start of next season.

As always, if you have any questions, please ask on the Photo Finish Live Discord server.

Breeding Tips

A. Most people will not breed with a grade A or lower stud that has low preferences (less than 8). You’re likely better off trying to get some money out of them racing.

B. It IS possible to switch preferences. For example, if you breed a LTS horse with a LDF horse, you may end up with a LTF horse. You might want to experiment with this at some point.

C. Let’s say you’re looking to make your foal a better sprinter and at present, your horse is an A with A start, A+ speed. If you can find a horse to breed with that has A+ start, A+ speed, the chances of the foal being a better sprinter is increased. Point being, think about stats and how to improve those to meet the goals you have for your future horse.

D. Again, breeding reports are very useful.

“Matches” in Breeding

You may hear Gen 0 horse owners talk about “matches”. The original PFP collections found here: https://magiceden.io/marketplace/stylish_studs were the male Stylish Studs and female Marvelous Mares

The way it worked is you would try to buy/trade the PFPs to get as many trait “matches” as possible with the rarest PFPs possible. The traits were everything from background color to coat color to hat, clothes, eyes and more.

0–5 matches were possible. Here’s an example 2 match breed:

The more matches you have, the more likely you are to pass on the good genes. That doesn’t mean 0 match horses can’t create good foals, it means higher match horses are more likely to.

In addition, the more matches, the higher the “temper” of the horse (0–3) and as temper is “consistency” that matters a lot as well.

There are three articles by Third Time Games, the company that makes PFL regarding matches and genes. You can read them here:

https://thirdtimegames.com/pfl-inside-track-genes-matches/

https://thirdtimegames.com/pfl-inside-track-part-2-gen-0-traits/

https://thirdtimegames.com/pfl-inside-track-part-3/

PFPs and CROWN Tokens

PFP stands for ‘Profile Picture”. For Photo Finish Live, these were the original NFTs that bred all the race horse tickets. They can no longer breed but still have amazing use cases. Those are:

1. You can stake them for CROWN (until April, 2025), the utility token of the ecosystem. You can then stake CROWN on race tracks for a % of their revenue which is amazing.

How much $CROWN they receive is dependent upon their rarity. This tool lets you find the ones for sale that provide the most CROWN for the cheapest price: https://photofinish.live/pfp-marketplace/collection and you stake them within the game (you need a Solana wallet such as Phantom to do all of this). Ask for help in Discord if you need it!

You can claim the CROWN once every 24 hours.

2. If you own one PFP, you get access to the Photo Finish Jockey Club (PFJC) which is our DAO. We aim to own some real life race horses and much more. The PFJC meets in the official Discord chat.

3. If you own 5 PFPs you get race reports in the game for free. These help dial in your horse’s preferred distance and peak age.

4. If you own 20 PFPs you get breeding reports for free and access to the Executive Club where we smoke cigars and drink top shelf whiskey.

Staking CROWN on Race Tracks

You can stake CROWN on any of the race tracks in the game and earn revenue! Here’s how it works and how to do it:

1. 20% of all race entry fees in DERBY are sent to the PFL treasury for distribution to CROWN stakers.

2. If you have CROWN in your wallet already from racing rewards, it’ll show in the below screenshot. Skip to step 4.

If you have CROWN in your cryptocurrency wallet, you must send it to your in-game wallet. To do so, go to the top of your screen and click on the orange CROWN icon that looks like this:

3. Then click “fund wallet” and follow the directions.

4. For the first 10 days of any season, you can go to “Tracks” in the game located here:

5. The above link will take you to a list of all the tracks and how much CROWN they have staked on them. Click on the following button:

6. This will take you to the actual staking screen with each race track. Simply select how much of your CROWN you want to distribute to each track and the select “Update Stake” when done. If you want to REMOVE stake, put a minus sign in front of the total amount you want to remove from the track and update the stake.

7. Now that you’re staked, every time a race runs, you’ll receive your share of the 20% of fees entry fees spread across the other CROWN holders staking on the track. You’ll see these DERBY fees accrue after each race. The ticket icon below is that number. You will be able to withdraw that DERBY at the end of the season to use in game or cash out for real money.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q. Can horses die from injuries?

A. No but you have to pay vet bills if they’re hurt and they are sidelined an additional two days.

Q. Do injuries affect a horse’s future performance?
A. No

Q. What is peak racing age?

A. Each gen 1 and later horse has an age where it’s at the top of its game (gen 0 do not), just like in real life. It’s different for each horse and using Fleet Figures is one way to help determine this. Peak racing adds a substantial amount of strategy to the game. Is your poor racing horse just a donkey or is it still too young and about to come into its own? Is this strong looking horse with a poor record in this claiming race a diamond in the rough that is about to hit its stride? Is my great horse over the hill and it’s best to retire them now?

Q. Is there a peak breeding age?

A. No.

Q. Is there any benefit to inbreeding?

A. Inbreeding in Photo Finish Live is when you breed your horse with another horse that shares a relative going back FOUR generations! Your horse will receive some sort of genetic penalty. But is there any benefit to this? We don’t know! Is it worth testing to see if you can develop some sort of edge? Maybe but probably not!

Q. Should I focus on a specific archetype like Right / Dirt / Soft (RDS) and if so, which should I choose?

A. That’s up to you and there’s no right answer. Some focus on a specific archetype and some stable owners have horses in each of them. A community member wrote an in-depth analysis of the various archetypes seen here.

Q. Is $CROWN on any exchanges?

A. It is currently available for purchase with Solana USDC here.

Q. What is this “T” grade horse in my stable?

A. That is a “Training” horse. It can only run in free races and cannot breed or be sold. It’s to help new players learn the game for free.