My Trip to Vietnam: Hanoi
After more than a week in Vietnam, I began to get the rhythm of the country. The small intricacies start to become less foreign as the mind adapts to its new surroundings. The frantic rush with which I’d run for cover at the sight of rain became a slow stroll without a worry in the world. What was conscious effort to avoid motorcycles cautiously became second nature. The need to take a picture at every corner with a frown on my forehead and a phone in my hand searching for the perfect angle was replaced by a wide smile and many a delicious Bahn Mi. I loved it here.
Hanoi definitely had a chill about it, a rather unwelcome change since I had packed with the impression of going to a tropical country. I had to resort to wearing a jacket I bought for my younger sister. Did it fit? No. Did I need it? Ya. Fortunately the chattering of my teeth was drowned out by the myraid of chaos in the city. My final 3 days in Vietnam brought more great food, picturesque landscape and some interesting folks.
Day 1: I’d like to point out that all the public buses in the city here have free Wi-fi. I think thats why Starbucks can never take off in this country. I stayed at the Chien Hostel, which translates to “Dog Hostel” in English but there were no dogs(sad). The hostel was located right next to St. Joseph’s Church and had a nice view from the terrace. After unpacking for a little bit it was time to head out to grab lunch and explore.
As I was walking around the city I came across many signs offering up day tours to Ha Long Bay. It is a collection of lime stone formations that peek out of the South China Sea. I decided to find out more, and after some hard bargaining secured a spot for a tour the following day.
I walked along the old wall that fortified the city under French occupation, and wandered around the Hoan Kiem Lake. At night they block off the traffic around the lake and open the streets up to makeshift markets, performers and families out for a good evening. There was a Pagoda that I visited and meditated in for a bit. I took the day easy mostly just wandering around, buying souvenirs, eating bahn mi just ready for the trip to Ha Long Bay.
The evening ended at a roadside beer place; one of the more fascinating operations I have seen in practice. Essentially, they pour beer into the glasses from a garden hose that connects inside a house. When you tell them your order the main guy yells it to presumably another person inside the house who pumps the exact amount of beer you ordered into the hose, thereby completing the process. A pint of beer for 3000 dong(14–15 cents), now if that isn’t value I don’t know what is!
Day 2: There are just some things in life that you go in not entirely sure of what to expect. Often these are binary, either resulting in great disappointments or massive successes. The day trip to Ha Long Bay from Hanoi was certainly the latter.
The morning began with a nice breakfast on the terrace of the hostel, following which a mini van picked me up and off we headed in the direction of probably the best thing I saw in Vietnam. The tour was divided into a few aspects. We began by stopping in the outskirts of the city of Ha Long, and toured around a handicrafts and marble store.
Soon after, we were on a boat and were offered a sit down lunch with seafood that was caught in the bay. Fresh and yummy! Then I went out on the upper deck and enjoyed mesmerizing views of the bay which is also a UNESCO world heritage site.
The first stop of our boat tour was the Thien Cung cave, which I believe at the time was the second largest cave in the country but don’t quote me on this one folks. If you’d like to know more use the internet. I’m mildly claustrophobic but the cave had been well excavated and appropriately lit that it made me comfortable to explore. It was one of the rare tourist destinations that looks like it should be receiving millions of tourists but hasn’t got its name out there. I imagine that in the future it will become one of the most sought after places to go to.
After the cave, we had a choice of either hiking to the top of one of the tall isles of Ha Long or going kayaking through another stretch of caves. As someone who has a vertigo-esque fear of heights you can guess what I chose(the hike).
I was anticipating a proper workout while “hiking” up the mountain. Again to my surprise, there were proper well maintained stairs installed all the way to the top of the mountain. It was a workout don’t get me wrong but not at all what I was anticipating. The panoramic view from the top was stunning! Obviously it was the moment when my phone battery died so no pictures! Again, google it folks. Eh, I know you aren’t going to so here you are.
The island where the mountain stands is referred to as Ti Top island after a Russian cosmonaut who visited the bay in 1962. Ironically, he never actually visited this island(not even after it was named after him!).
After some more delish dinner, it was soon time to take the boat back from Ha Long Bay to Hanoi. I have no doubt that with the setup and infrastructure that has been created, this marvel will become one of the biggest tourist destinations in the world. While I personally hope that it does, I also hope that does not erode away its charm.
Day 3: No No No this cannot be happening! It’s my last day in Vietnam? ALREADY? I just got here ffs :( well one musn’t dilly dally and make the most out of this day. In a similar throwback to my last day in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). I overslept and was unable to visit the memorial to the nation’s father Ho Chi Minh. So instead I began my day with the intention of visiting the Hoa Lo prison. It was a prison where American POWs were brought in if they were captured near the area. It was nicknamed the Hanoi Hilton by the POWs who spoke of it. The Vietnamese say it was because the prison was so comfortable, while some American POWs claim it was a sarcastic comment. I don’t know who is right. The most prominent of the folks who resided there was Senator John McCain who was released after 5 and a half years of captivity. But as I was on my way, I got side tracked by a roadside food stall with spring rolls, tofu, and herbs. Realizing that I was indeed more of a foodboi than a prisonboi. I decided to spend my last day trying as many different foods as I could.
A protip if you want information about the best places to go eat in a city is to basically go up to the front desk of a big hotel and speak to them about it. What? You don’t live there? They probably won’t know that. So after a 20 minute conversation with the people at the Sofitel Legend Metropole, I was able to narrow down the places I needed to visit.
For lunch, I was instructed to vist Cha Ca Thang Long and eat the food there. It was marinated Vietnamese catfish served with dill, rice vermicelli and a broth reduction. It’s an impressive setup, when you get there you sit and recieve a pan with the fish and dill so you can cook it at your table yourself. The dish comes together as one would like it. A sophisticated dish, it’s one where each component has a powerful taste to it but as a combination it strikes a nice mellow note. I devoured the food before returning to the hostel for an afternoon nap.
The afternoon nap idea had to be dropped because I walked in to people having sex in the room. Ah, I miss the budget travel life.
I aimlessly walked across town stumbling upon the Tran Quoc Pagoda. The place was scenic and quiet. I spent a few hours there and after the sunset headed back to my next destination: The Giang Cafe. During some times of hardship, there was a lack of milk in the country. So people weren’t able to get creamy coffee. The solution? Throw in a couple of egg yolks. And voila you have Vietnamese Egg Coffee. A real treat. The Giang Cafe was not only supposedly one of the best vendors for the beverage, but was also known to invent Egg Beer. So it’s egg yolk, condensed milk and some few secret ingredients mixed with beer. It imparts a very strange honey flavor to the whole thing. Worth a try certainly!
Since I was unceremoniously denied a nap in the afternoon and had an early morning flight. I went back to the hostel, obviously making eye contact with the coitus couplers from the afternoon, packing my bag and calling it a day. The next day I headed to the airport to fly back to Singapore.
The experience of the 12 days in Vietnam can only by summarized as phenomenal. I left this country with some melancholy shrouded in joy about the memories I made while I was here and looking forward to other travel adventures ahead. A rather bittersweet experience. Looking back at it, I believe this country was where I experienced the true joy of travel. I believed had always liked it, but it was here that I fell in love with it. And like any guy’s first love, they never forget and nor shall I forget Vietnam. I hope I’m back there for another set of experiences soon. Till then, hen gap lai, Vietnam!
