Winter Trekking in Western Ukraine Mountains Goverla & Petros
It’s difficult to find a Ukrainian travel-enthusiast whose feet did not touch the top of the Ukrainian highest mountains Goverla (2'061 m.) and Petros (2'020 m.). Hiking these two is considered to be the most popular trekking routes in Ukraine, making them quite crowded during the summer-time, and less attractive but more challenging and rewarding during winter. These treks attracted me since the last winter when I've missed a chance to join my buddies in a similar activity. That time, they failed to ascend due to severe weather conditions. Lucky me.
This year I did not miss a chance.
Day 1. Arrival to base-camp
Our base-camp in Kozmeshyk (location) represented a small two storied house with kitchen, shower, two common rooms on the second floor, and sauna and boiler rooms on the first floor. Important to notice that there was hot water supply here, placing this estate in category of luxurious resorts. So, warm and comfortable stay was guaranteed.
Comparatively low price of 5$ per person for a night in a common room shared only between our company was a bargain!
The same day, right after arrival, we made a short test trek to check if our harness and outfit were ready for a big game. Everything seemed fine, at least as fine as it can be for pale office worms in hazardous wild nature environment.
DAY 2. Hospitable Goverla
We left the base-camp at 07:30 under the lights of red sunrise, which looked amazing and promising a good weather, at least until the noon time. The whole ascend was like a pleasant friendly walk in a forest. Of course with elements of quite heavy gradients with slippery snow. The whole path was beaten and clear from deep untouched snow, which made our ascend easier. Seeing the Goverla mountain from aside made me think that it would take a lifetime to get on the top, but actually, the top was much more closer then it seemed to be.
Just before the steep climb to the top, on a comparatively flat saddle, there is a tiny wooden mountain refuge house, which can hold 6–8 standing persons. Empty, filled with snow, but wind-free it felt like the safest shelter on earth.
We met several groups on our way to the top. All were professionally equipped. Without good dry outfit, one can suffer a severe chilblain here, as -15C with strong wind can make its job very quickly. Experienced alpinists never underestimate mountains, even small ones.
It took us 25 minutes to reach the mountain apex from the shelter. At the top we expected to see a steel cross, but what we saw instead was a big icy bulb, looking like a huge frozen head! What an amazing structure created by mother-nature! A huge lollipop for those who have found courage to get here!
From different perspective actually the cross sign can be recognized. It’s strange how the sign directions were intact by snow and wind in such conditions, maybe they were regularly cleaned by tourists.
Clear panoramic landscapes are quite a rare scene here in January, so we were very lucky to see these rewarding views. Unbelievable panorama with visibility around 30km!
Definitely our way back to the camp was much more easier, and having spare time saved during ascending, we afforded ourselves to make lots of stops for shooting pictures and enjoying the views.
Both pathes to Goverla and Petros lay via the the old Carpathian forest, which impressed me by it’s majesty. It comforts and pacifies anyone who walks through. If you ever decide to visit this place, please take a short walk through this beauty. It’s totally worth it!
DAY 2. UNAPPROACHABLE PETROS
Isn’t it beautiful? It definitely is!
A-a-and… we didn’t make it. At the Petros foot, we were caught by a strong fog, and a snowfall. Moving through the deep powder snow, our footprints were instatly blown by the wind and filled with snow. It was a challenging task to retreat to Polonyna Holovches’ka, a picturesque place with wooden empty houses, used commonly for shelters and overnight stays.
We spent some time in this abandoned wooden village, building snow caves and trying to get out of 2.5m depth snow. What a pleasant stay! Even if we would have reached the top that day, we would hardly see or feel anything… so we were not even upset.
So that was it. One of two summits was reached. 50% success. At least we have left some unfinished business here, in case if we return someday!
Day 3, 4, 5. Vorohta, and back to sweet home…
Vorohta, a beautiful village 50 km from Romanian border, is offering hundreds options of lodging, and is a good place for a cost-effecient holidays in the heart of forests and mountains. Getting here by train directly from Kyiv allows you to get closer to famous Bukovel ski resorts. 15 minutes by foot from Vorohta’s center and you are on the one of the oldest arc bridges in Europe — Viaduk, built in 1895 by Italian prisoners.
That’s all for 2019 winter stories. It was a good journey with good friends. Thanks to all for this wonderful time.
2019-Feb-07
