Step Inside Bed Stuy’s Dept of Culture
Talking Hyper-Regional Cuisine, Inspiration and Gratitude With Ayo Balogun
Community, authenticity and sustainability are at the heart of Dept of Culture, an interesting new restaurant concept in Brooklyn from Nigerian-born restaurateur Ayo Balogun.
Located in Bed Stuy, the intimate space is minimal and modern. A splash of color is lent by a half-teal wall circling the room, while framed photos of Alogun’s grandparents on the wall add a homey, personal touch. A record player spins vintage vinyl—namely, Nigerian artists from the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s—and there’s an impressive coffee station stocked with matte black dish ware. If you didn’t know Alogun also runs a local coffee shop called The Council, the quality of the coffee experience here would be a clue.
Balogun was born in Kwara, a North-Central state in Nigeria, and that’s precisely the food you’ll find on Dept of Culture’s menu.
“Nobody eats pizza and says, ‘I just had European food,’” he laughs, musing on the tendency to generalize African cuisine. So he keeps the menu focused, and thoughtfully introduces each course to the guests each night, gathered around a communal table. “I try to tell people my perspective versus whatever is written in the books: my relationship to the food, how I discovered this, what I know about that. There’s an element of responsibility there. That was one of the reasons I went hyper-regional. It’s what I know.”
You’ll find things like Wara on the menu, a milk curd dish native to Kwara. Here, it’s served with pounded yam, stewed greens and your choice of protein, such as striped bass or lamb shank. Each dish is classically prepared, but with what we’ll call New York spin to the ingredients. For example, traditional fish pepper soup is made with swordfish instead of catfish. For the Suya, a popular Nigerian street food, the red meat is swapped out for mushrooms, chicken or octopus. The Jollof rice is kept vegan by omitting goat or chicken stock.
But don’t be surprised if you don’t have any of that when you stop by. Dishes change every two weeks, with an emphasis on seasonality and ingredients like peppers and peanuts flown in from Kwara.
Alogun’s interests don’t stop at culinary arts and quality coffee; his penchant for design is obvious at Dept of Culture, too. An abstract collage with gold leaf and vibrant hues of blue, orange and yellow adorns one wall. It’s a piece commissioned by artist and Parsons professor Tiffany Weber, who also created the thoughtful ceramic elements throughout: like the candleholders and a small dish where palo santo burns. A sculptural chandelier hangs over a wooden dining table where 15 guests mingle each night, both made by friend and artist Patrick Tamsen.
When asked about the design of the space, it all ties back to designing the most authentic Nigerian restaurant possible.
“For a sushi spot, you’d design a sushi counter. How do you envision an African space? What are the elements that link back to Nigeria?” Alogun reflected. “Africans put such a huge value on community. In our village, we all sit at the same table. So here, we put everybody together. I see people exchanging numbers. They’re all having the same experience, bonding with people they’ve never met before. It’s about creating a sense of community.”
That, plus a passionate feeling for being responsible stewards of the earth.
“I always thought, if one has to build, one should build green. If we are custodians of the earth, we need to think about who might use it next. Even if it’s not us, that should inform the design.” To that end, the space is simple and sleek. If you took out the dining table, it could quickly be transformed into just about anything, which is entirely the point.
“When I was really putting the space together, I imagined it as a concept restaurant,” shares Alogun. I didn’t think we were going to have the buzz we got. We have people booking for June in January. I thought I was opening a little concept restaurant to enjoy my vinyls and coffee, a reason to have a nice chandelier,” he says with a smile.
“If we had a few people dining each night, that would be cool. This is a lucky problem to have. I’m pleased, and I’m grateful.”
