WOTD #13: Bordeaux’s Beast
2012 Château Haut Bertinerie
Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, France
91 points and an Editors’ Choice from the Wine Enthusiast, which boasts: “This rich, concentrated wine is velvety smooth, with tannins enveloped by ripe berry and plum fruits.”
A single committed family, farming this region for nearly two centuries translates to one fantastic value in red Bordeaux! The Côtes de Bordeaux, Blaye AOC is one of the last holdouts of value in vaunted Bordeaux and was just the place our Sourcing Team hoped to find a killer red for Members with all the character of top Bordeaux at a price that was just as easy going down.
Since the mid 20th century this little known estate — at least little known in the U.S.! — has won 59 medals for its spectacular wine. This particular blend of Merlot (grown on clay limestone soil) and Cabernet Sauvignon (grown on the estate’s most chalky-clay soils) is broad and tannic, offering elegant black stone fruit along with secondary notes herbs and minerals. Made for meals, this is a red with the acidity and structure slice through rich foods like lamb and brisket. Fans of Bordeaux and California Cab drinkers alike will find lots to enjoy in this value-packed find.
Reasons why we love it:
The entire 91-point review from the Wine Enthusiast: “This rich, concentrated wine is velvety smooth, with tannins enveloped by ripe berry and plum fruits. Wood aging has added to the the rounded character. Despite its approachability, it will age well, so the wine is best drunk from 2018.”
Chateau Bertinerie holds the title as the largest property in all of France to make use of the lyre training system for viticulture. Recently developed by the prestigious Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique, the lyre system provides a leaf surface twice as big as the traditional grape growing method in Bordeaux and improves the quality of fruit by reducing bitterness in the grapes and increasing richness and a smooth, silky finish.
Winemaker Daniel Bantegnies, assisted by his sons Eric and Frantz, grow grapes by “lute raisonnée,” a method that stays as close as possible to strictly organic farming practices, eschewing chemicals and with all harvests done by hand.
TASTING NOTES
On the nose, sweet red and black fruits abound, with red and black plum, very ripe red currant, and tart black cherry. Balancing the fruit are elements of pencil lead, pen ink, powdered mushroom, fresh cut herbs, and menthol, all framed with oak elements of powdered cocoa, toast, clove and nutmeg. A subtle, earthy component of freshly turned topsoil underscores the finish.
THE STORY TO KNOW
Château Bertinerie : one of the jewels of the bordelais
ONE FAMILY, THREE VINEYARDS, THREE CASTLES.
Located in CUBNEZAIS, in the Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux appellation, the Château Bertinerie has been owned by the same family for close to two centuries.
THE LARGEST PROPERTY IN FRANCE TO USE THE LYRE TRAINING SYSTEM.
Developed by the Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique, this technique greatly improves the quality of wines.
A VOCATION: ECOLOGY
For 30 years, the BANTEGNIES family has been using a method of sustainable viticulture called reasoned agriculture (“lutte raisonnée”), which produces wine without residual chemical traces. The wine treatment products we use are biodegradable.
THE QUALITY OF WINE ALSO DEPENDS ON THE QUALITY OF ITS TERROIR
Over the past two centuries, the Château Bertinerie has selected the best terroirs that suit the traditional grape varieties grown in the Bordeaux area: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon or Franc, and Sauvignon.
PERFECT PAIRINGS
Pair this blend with chicken marsala, balsamic glazed pork chops with apple stuffing, beef stew, or pizza night.
DAN’S TAKE:
This little gem is a classy blend of Merlot and Cabernet from 40+ year old vines, and the 2012 release is tasting fresh and powerful. Cassis, black cherry, tobacco and graphite waft from the glass, with ripe berries, bright acids and dry tannin on the palate. The wine is wonderfully layered and complex, showing impressive depth for the price, and a long and elegant finish. Enjoy now through 2022. — DZ