Okavango log
Here is a log with my 4-day stay at Pelo camp in Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
Okavango Delta — Day 1
Oh boy, what a day. Waking started waking up at the hotel at about 5:30 in Gaborone, to catch my flight to Maun, and then another flight in a Cessna plane to the camp. During the second flight, it was me and the pilot, that is all.
The flight was a bumpy tide, with lot of air pockets, me in the front seat in the co-pilot’s chair, and an amazing view of the water pathways creating beautiful patterns in the desert. Then we have landed in the middle of the delta.
My guide for the stay met me near the runway, his name is Timothy.
We drove for about 1 hour back to camp, and then stated an amazing National Geographic movie that I was part of. On the way seeing a very hungry Hippo feeding on lilies, which is unusual sight in the middle of the day.
After parking the safari car, we switched to a boat for a 3-minute boat ride. Then arrived at Pelo Camp, with the staff greeting me, and only me, with singing and a wet scented towel to refresh. I felt quite embarrassed, but hey, I think I’m starting to get used to this place.
Short walk over the small island the camp is built upon, and taking on a very good lunch with Rice, Stew and Salad. Then had about 3 hours to rest before going on a boat trip. The manager took me to my room, which is a luxurious tent, with everything you could wish for.
As I’m lying in bed, through the netting on the door I see a fish eagle, just 50 meters away. Taking a camera and snapping this picture, while laying down in my bed. This feels crazy, and I like it.
After a short siesta heading the swimming pool, which was a fabulous refreshment for the hot day outside. Chatting with some American tourists. Heading for the afternoon Mokoro trip, while before being greeted with superb Lemon Pie and some Pig Meat on a stick with some dressing. Mokoro is a boat carved out of 1 piece of tree trunk, me and another swiss couple took the sustainable-modern fiber-glass version of it, and headed to the shallow waters.
Poling in the Mokoro with spectacular Lilies and Cone-Skaters which are insects with long leg jumping around on the surface. We saw lots of interesting things. For example, a group of Lechwe, which is an antelope endemic to the Okavango, crossing just in front of us, creating splashes of water that disrupts the tranquility of the ride and surrounding.
Watched a mother elephant with her small child walking slowly in the swampy wetland, making lots of noise as they pierce reeds on their way.
Probably the rarest of all is a Sitatunga. This is an Antelope that is endemic to Okavango, but unlike the Lechwe they are very hard to spot. This Antelope adapted living in waters so it hides just like a Hippo with only the nostrils kept outside. We saw one Sitatunga running for about 7 seconds before vanishing, and the guides were really freaked. We did not see much difference between Sitatunga and Lechwe, but Timothy really tried to explain how rare is this experience.
Heading back to camp with sunset, after enjoying a short stop with wine, beers and snacks. Starting to hear Hippos as they move to the shallows towards their active night of eating. This is probably the most dangerous animal you can come across here (along with Buffalo that is in the drier areas). At nighttime, you are not allowed to walk by yourself in camp, because there is a high odd of encountering an elephant or a Hippo. That really happens almost each night. Of course, that after arriving there is a lady greeting us with refreshment towels and with quality alcoholic shot.
The camp is built in a sustainable way, with no permanent buildings, not concrete floors, with a very high degree respect for nature. This is a government decision to keep tourism contained in the area, with only 50 camps covering a vast land.
What is amazing about all this is the level of luxury. I’ve eaten extraordinary food here, and we are so far from any civilization. The stay here is amazing on a city-standards, which makes this much more impressive. There is very careful though and planning in the design and décor as well as in the daily operation, after seeing this in my own eyes I can understand why this is one of the most expensive vacations possible.
After 2-hours with campfire and another amazing dinner, heading back to my room. During dinner, there was a roar from distance, the guide and the manager looked at each other and said almost together: “Grumpy is coming”. This is a bachelor elephant that visits the island often, and as you can understand from his nickname he does not get along very well with people.
In night, lone in a tent that is almost entirely open with large windows covered with nets. Listening to the symphony of insects, and every minute or so an elephant or hippo roar. And a flashy full moon keeps the outside in a good lightening.
Wow, so much in only half a day. Except of the weird feeling of being here without Ortal, who is a highly skilled predator, and my wife, this place is really a piece of heaven.
Okavango Delta — Day 2
At night tried to wake up a few times searching for an elephant or a hippo staring, but that did not happen.
Woke up at 6 AM, and greeted with a hearty breakfast on the deck, with pancakes and muesli. Beautiful view and cool breeze as Okavango wakes up.
Today we went on two boat trips, one in the morning (7–10) and one in the afternoon (4–6:30). Both were in a motorized boat that is specialized for shallow waters. Engine works only at the surface, which makes this boat go almost anywhere you wish.
Reached a huge colony of white Egrets, with around 6 Fish Eagles flying over and resting on the trees. Egrets and Catfish cooperate to close on packs of smaller fish. Cat fish contributes from the water, with splashing sound as they jump, especially close to the reeds. The Egrets just wait on the shoreline and get their treat. Amazing show, similar to “Ahula” lake in Israel, but you are really in there with the birds. Suddenly, a Crocodile showed up from the water and tried to catch a Cat Fish using his jaws.
You almost start getting used to seeing giant birds like Goliath Heron, the biggest Heron in the world. As well as Saddle-horse Bird, a colorful special bird endemic to Okavango. In addition to large amounts of Fish Eagles, Ibis. The second animal that really is everywhere is Lechwe.
Lunch was great. Greek salad, Coleslaw, Fries and a very good Hamburger with home-made patties. Then chilling next to the pool with some ice-cold red wine. Noon time is when the animals, and the humans take a long siesta due to the heat. It is close to 40 degrees now. Before my nap, I showered in the outdoor shower. It is just you and nature.
Before heading to the evening boat some of the women in the staff handcrafted some bowels, placemats and necklaces from palm tree leaves. Nice artwork, took one brown bowl home. So many people working to keep this place running for us, there is 2 staff persons on each tourist. And this is just now, tomorrow night I should be the only tourist on camp.
The evening boat was mostly about Elephants. There were a lot of them, grown-ups, teenagers. Eating, crossing the waters. Amazing to share the same space with this giant.
Purple, pink and peach sunset escorted us back to camp. A Fish Eagle arrived to steal a fish from a Saddle-horse bird, that is the tax you must pay when fishing in his territory. Okavango gives you a real chance to witness the genesis of species, with amazing bio-diversity and close-up experiences with wild-life.
Wet towel welcome, Amarula shot, and some relax time next to the pool.
Night dinner with 6 other tourists (plus three guides), mango-coconut soup, lamb and cuscus.
At night time I’m in my bed about to sleep but the sounds all around is the opposite as Okavango wildlife become active. You hear hippo munching reeds, branches crack, and lots of noisy insects and frogs.
Okavango Delta — Day 3
This is the day that all the other people in the camp are going to leave, except me. I’m going to be the only tourist on an island with a resort that has 10 beds. Me and 7 other staff members.
Mokoro in the morning was tranquil, an American joined my boat and we cruised slowly in the waters. Watched (yet) another Sitatunga, this time for a few minutes. It was a young male. I already wrote about this rare sight, which surprisingly we saw for the third day in-a-row. This time it was nice to get a few minutes before it went out of sight.
After getting back and eating lunch I’ve decided to join along with the swiss tourists to the runway. After all, I’m not planning to be in a “dry” lodge, so the way to the runway and back, which is about 30-minutes, could be my compensation on that. All the other tourists go to 3–4 lodges, in a total of 2 weeks’ safari, I’m the unusual here.
Short boat ride, and then switching to a large Safari Vehicle. Just as we went on the safari vehicle we saw something amazing: A female lion. Such a huge muscular animal. It was about 30 meters away from us, on the other end of a newly built bridge. The bridge was still in some construction, with a tractor just next to her. As we watched her, we noticed another tractor working just behind the bush she was standing next to. And… Suddenly, a white cap popped from the bust behind her. A man was slowly walking just towards her, obviously without knowing of her presence. Things have gotten slow-motion at this stage. After failing to call someone on the radio, Timi the guide, shouted to the man. At this stage, he turned to us, and to his surprise saw her just 4 meters away from him. He freaked and run to the car, entering from the passenger seat. Ok, now I could breath. Timi said he knows this Lion, and she recently had cubs, so probably she is protecting them from the invasion to her territory. This was the closest I’ve ever seen a man close to his death.
Back in camp: Pool dip, nap, and then an evening boat trip of me & the guide alone. We took our time watching herds of 10–15 elephants crossing the waters. The biggest land animal in the world, weighing 4–5 tons. They only poop 100 Kg per day. Amazing sight, watching and hearing their slow movement as they cross. During this time, we sat on the boat snacking and drinking beer.
Returning to camp a group of monkeys watched me suspiciously as I made my way to my room.
Evening time. Dinner of me and the staff. We ate local food which mashed-up meet that was being cooked for ~8 hours, right after breakfast time. It was very tender. I’ve been trying unsuccessful to get my hands on local food since Gaborone, so it probably has found me.
If the situation was not embarrassing enough, the entire staff did a show with songs and dances just for me. 8 people singing African songs, and dancing beside the fire, and I’m sitting on the chair on the other side, drinking soup. The manager sat beside me and stayed with me later, just to give me some company.
Okavango Delta — Day 4
Goodbye Botswana.
Woke up to see the normal 3-hippos at distance, herd of Lechwe just on the island 25 meters away, noisy group of monkeys on the tree above me, and countless of vocal birds. With this view, I took a hot outdoor shower, and packed my stuff.
My flight was due only at 11:30, so we had some time to explore on a “game drive”. Timi was very conscious about tracks and stopped every minute or so to observe the road. Some hippo tracks, lechwe, and then Bingo! Lion tracks, along with small lion cub tracks. This means the female lion has migrated at night to this area, and should be around. He called the radio for the other game drivers in the reserve. 5 minutes later, there is a call that someone has spotter her on the front, Timi drove quickly there. We reached to see some scared construction workers in their vehicle pointing towards the spot she was in. We slowly followed her, as some additional Safari cars joined along. She was stepping slowly with a proud and slow walk, like we are no factor at all for her. At this point Timi wanted to see either of the two: her cubs, or if she is not with them — a kill she is likely to perform to feed them. We slowly followed her and on each of her turns some scared Lechwe ran away after spotting her, and then she entered some grass and just laid down. She was in no rush to do anything, contrary to our excited mood. We sat there for about 30 minutes, as she was waiting for a Lechwe to get closer, it was evident that in any second we can witness a kill. However, in some way the Lechwe herd just moved along keeping very straight line, just like army soldiers. This was a great experience to finish my Okavango safari.
The largest airplane possible welcomed me and some other tourists on the air strip. After 2 stops along the way I was back in Maun airport, which was very busy with about 200 tourists. Only 3 flights to go an I’m back home.
