TURQUOISE & TERRACOTTA — the beautiful Luberon in Provence Part 1
I write my travel articles under the banner Turquoise & Terracotta because they invariably involve the turquoise Mediterranean Sea, turquoise shutters and terracotta pots and roofs.
The Luberon Part 1 — Gordes — Joucas — St Saturnin-lès-Apt — Apt — Saignon
I’m often asked about the Luberon in the south-east of the country so here’s some information, and photos of one of my favourite areas in France.
Famous for its delicious wine, lavender fields and hilltop villages, the western Luberon is a wide valley just east of Avignon in the département of the Vaucluse (84). The Luberon stretches as far as Manosque but this article covers only the part between Cavaillon and Apt. Its most famous contemporary inhabitant is perhaps the late Peter Mayle whose book ‘A Year in Provence’ inspired huge numbers to either visit or buy a home in this picturesque valley. It certainly was an inspiration for me.
Gordes — this view will greet you just before you arrive at the village. There are a few parking spaces if you’d like to stop to take a photo or two.
Probably the most photographed village is Gordes, the centre vibrant in season, its pale stone houses tumble down the hillside, providing lots of shady alleys to wander. It featured in the film ‘A Good Year’ and is consequently extremely busy in high season. It has several cafés and restaurants, at least one boulangerie and a small shop. The market takes place on Tuesdays and is one of my favourites. There’s a panoramic view signposted from near the main château square and also fantastic vistas from the road on the way in — there are a few parking spaces if you’d like to stop to take some photos. If you’re exploring lavender fields too, the wonderful Abbaye de Sénanque is a short drive away.
Abbaye de Sénanque and its famous lavender field. This was taken on 9th July — the lavender obviously not yet in full bloom. Due to climate change, it might appear earlier so follow someone with local knowledge to see it at its best.
About 8kms away is tiny Joucas. I know Joucas well as I’ve stayed several times at Mas de Rosemarie at the bottom of the village. Notable buildings in this well-kept village are the tiny, blue-painted town hall and the adjacent church. They open onto a small square with fabulous views of the valley below and beyond. The tiny alleys wind their way up to a privately owned château at the top. There’s a shop, not open all day, a café-restaurant and a hotel with larger hotels just out of town on the road to Murs. The café-restaurant, Bistrot la Terrasse, has sweeping views from its terrace.
Joucas’ mairie — town hall — is adjacent to the village’s pretty little church.
The larger village of St Saturnin-lès-Apt has several cafés and restaurants along with a couple of boulangeries, one in the pretty market square. I have become very fond of St Sat as it’s known locally, as it has more commerce than other villages, along with a lovely walk up to a ruin of a château with far-reaching views across the Luberon and down to the village and church below.
One of St Saturnin-lès-Apt’s boulangeries overlooks the sunny village square.
The market, workaday town of Apt sits at the centre of this part of the western Luberon, well-worth a visit on a Saturday for its famous market, another of my favourites. It stretches almost through the whole town, its streets and squares bursting with stalls selling local produce.
Baskets outside a tiny shop in Saignon.
The tiny village of Saignon sits above Apt and has a gorgeous main square and fountain, and tiny streets leading off it. There aren’t many facilities here but you will find a coffee or a drink and there’s a newish panoramic restaurant at the top of the village along with a more rustic one in the centre. It’s still nice for a stroll and definitely worth a visit at lavender time as there’s a couple of fields immediately below the village (main photo).
Pretty flower border in Saignon.
Part 2 Bonnieux — Lacoste — Ménerbes — Oppède-le-Vieux — Coustellet — Goult — Roussillon is now available.
Particularly out of the main season, please check that cafés and restaurants are open.
For further details, these wonderful websites will provide further information and excellent photos: https://www.beyond.fr/ and https://www.theluberon.com/ The latter also has a large range of holiday rentals — it’s where I would look first if heading to the Luberon.
You may be wondering if the Luberon features in my books — it does! Characters Joanna and Alain inherit a small house here which leads to discoveries about the French Resistance in WW2. A few chapters of the novel are therefore set just before and throughout the war years.
You’ll find more information about my books on my Facebook Page www.facebook.com/JaneDunningAuthor
