1,000 days of gluttony
Eating my face off in the City of Angels
In the 1,000 days I’ve been a California resident, there’s one thing I’ve gotten pretty good at.
Eating.
I’ve visited 413 food establishments since stepping off my Virgin American flight onto the slightly odorous carpets of LAX. Many have been silly good. Others have been shit. Most lie in-between.
A Google Doc spreadsheet helps me keep track of my restaurant excursions. In order to make it on the list, every place must abide by a few self-imposed rules:
- No national chains (so In-N-Out is included, but Panera Bread is not)
- At least one food or beverage item must be purchased
- Take-out/delivery counts (this is rare)
- Bars, lounges with drink menus, and upscale food shops (butchers, cheese shops, etc) count. Music venues, comedy theaters etc, with a bar, do not.
In honor of my 1,000 days spent in Los Angeles and the meals I’ve consumed here, here are a few of my favorites. Enjoy!
The Best Pizza
There’s a lot of great pizza in LA, you just have to know where to look.
Deep dish: Masa (Echo Park)
A 14-inch large is nearly two inches thick and weighs over four pounds. Contents: buttery crust, homemade sauce, topped with gooey mozzarella and salty, fatty meats (or veggies). It’s certain to put you in a food coma, give you heartburn and probably take a year or two off your life. But is it worth it? Absolutely. Website || Yelp
Cheap: Village Pizza (Hollywood/Larchmont)
Village was started in San Francisco by a Brooklyn native who moved the business to Los Angeles in 1997. It’s the closest to New York-style pizza I’ve had on this coast. Affordable, delicious, and centrally located in Larchmont and Hollywood, Village is a great go-to for college students and the budget-concious. Website || Yelp
Gourmet: Pizzeria Mozza (Hancock Park)
This was a hard decision. Just in Hollywood alone, there are numerous upscale pizzerias for those in the mood to splurge. Pizzeria Mozza takes the win though—their super thin, fancy-ass-toping pizzas are out of this world. At $14-18 for a self-serve 12-inch pizza, they’ll set you back a few bucks (especially if you indulge in their mouth-watering appetizers or wine list). But sometimes it’s worth treating yourself. Website || Yelp
Ethnic
There is much more for me to explore in the vast world of Los Angeles ethnic foods, so I narrowed my list down to just a handful of categories.
Sushi: Sugarfish (Varies)
If you’re feeling adventurous, go to Sugarfish and order the “Trust me.” They’ll bring out a bunch of courses based on whatever is being served that day. I recently went for the first time and needed a nap afterwards due to the copious amounts of rice and raw fish in my belly. Website || Yelp
German: Wurstküche (Downtown)
Is it truly German cuisine? Not really. But it’s definitely inspired. Wurstküche (pronounced vurst-kush-a) specializes in homemade sausages, belgian-style fries and great beer. Oh, and awesome dipping sauces (their sundried tomato mayo is redonk). In the mood to try buffalo? Or rattlesnake? Order off their exotic menu for a sausage you’ll never forget. Website || Yelp
Mediterranean: Bäco Mercat (Downtown)
Since visiting Israel a few years back I’ve had a love affair with Mediterranean food. Shortly after my return I discovered Bäco Mercat, a small-and-big-plates style restaurant that mixes western and eastern Mediterranean flavors with Californian ingredients. Bäco is amazing because it’s easy to go on a budget (their signature flatbread sandwich, the Bäco, and a beer will run you under $20), or you can make it a fancier affair and spend a lot more if in the mood. Website || Yelp
Italian: Osteria Mozza (Hancock Park)
Osteria Mozza is Pizzeria Mozza’s bigger, significantly more expensive, older brother. Only come here if you’re a) rich, b) celebrating a very special occasion or c) in the mood to make an extremely irresponsible financial decision for no reason whatsoever (like me). Order something from the mozzarella bar, and try sitting there if you can. You’ll want a front row seat as their raw-cheese-inspired creations come to life. Website || Yelp
Mexican: Poquito Más (Varies)
So there’s a lot of Mexican food in Southern California. Some of it is authentic. Most of it isn’t. Poquito Más is certainly somewhat Americanized, but all that matters is that it’s delicious. This LA-area chain is my favorite because it tastes fresh. It’s cheap, easy, and with multiple locations to choose from, there’s always one nearby. Website || Yelp
Ramen: Ramen by Omae (Sherman Oaks)
From the outside, Ramen by Omae doesn’t look special. Chef Omae is a Michelin star chef from Japan — why he decided to open his restaurant in a strip-mall in Sherman Oaks I do not know. His ramen broth is boiled for 40 hours, resulting in an insanely thick, concentrated soup that will stain your shirt once you start slurping up the noodles. Go for an early lunch to avoid waiting. Website || Yelp
Sweets & Baked Goods
I have the world’s best sweet-tooth. I also love bread. And yes, deciding between my two favorite cookie-shops was impossible, so they’re both included as geographically separate categories.
Ice Cream: Neveux Artisan Creamery (Fairfax)
If you’re adventurous with your ice cream flavors, Neveux is for you. This tiny creamery is easy to miss on Melrose — it’s a hidden gem with flavors like olive oil basil, strawberry balsamic, and blueberry chèvre. Yes, they’re peculiar, and yes, they’re silly delicious. Website || Yelp
Cookies, the Valley: Quenelle (Burbank)
Technically, Quenelle is an ice cream shop first and a bakery second, but their gigantic cookies are fucking incredible (as are their ice creams). Favorites include blonde hazelnut and pecan chocolate chip. Oh, and their staff rock — they’ve been known to slip an extra cookie into your bag from time to time. No website || Yelp
Cookies, Not the Valley: Milk Jar (Mid-Wilshire)
Milk Jar offers cookies of a smaller nature, focusing more on the soft and chewier side to life. The storefront has a very homemade, mom and pop feel, so if you’re in the mood for mom’s cookies but mom’s too far away, swing by their storefront on Wilshire. Website || Yelp
Bakery: La Brea Bakery (Hancock Park)
La Brea Bakery’s breads can be found at your local supermarket. But for a special treat, stop by their location on — you guessed it — La Brea Ave at 6th St. Their bâtards are great for crostinis and their brioche (which you’ll need to order in advance) makes bomb french toast. Their pastries are just okay though — I never understood given their superior breads. Website || Yelp
Alcohol
Like all great cities, Los Angeles is filled with bars of every shape and size. Narrowing down this list was tough, but here are some standouts.
Dive Bar: Bar ONE Beer & Wine Parlour (Valley Village)
Bar One is a step up from your typical dive bar, but still has the same vibe. Don’t come expecting mixed drinks as they only serve beer and wine. Their exceptional happy hour is nightly til 9pm ($2 PBRs, $4 craft beer, $1 off taps/wine and $4 sangria). Every night has an additional event or special, my favorite being Mystery Beer Mondays, which is exactly what it sounds like. Don’t ask your bartender what you’re drinking, because he won’t tell you. Website || Yelp
Hang Out: The Cat & Fiddle (Hollywood)
The Cat & Fiddle’s massive outdoor patio makes for great place to hang out with friends any night of the week. It’s rarely crowded, so tables are always available. Their food is mediocre English-pub style, and drinks, while not mind-blowing, are cheap. But the bar has a cool vibe, and their Movie Monday and Trivia Nights make for a fun spontaneous outing. Website || Yelp
Overpriced Drinks: The Library (Hollywood)
The Library is on the second floor of the Redbury hotel at Hollywood and Vine and is a sister to Cleo on the first floor. It’s super swanky with a huge outdoor patio and is crawling with fancy couples dressed up for a night out on the town. The drink menu (which is also available at Cleo) is superb — try the whisky-based Honey Citrus Sidecar. At $14 a pop, it’s not somewhere you’ll want to hang out on the regular, but it’s great for a special occasion or one of those “fuck it!” nights where money is no object. Website || Yelp
Beer Selection: Mohawk Bend (Echo Park)
Mohawk Bend is cool bar-meets-vegan-friendly-meets-beer-lovers-paradise. The restaurant only uses California sourced ingredients. Many menu items are vegan or vegetarian friendly and they taste great no matter what your dietary preference (their buffalo cauliflower are the bomb.com). Mohawk Bend has over 70 beers on tap and is co-owned by local beer entrepreneur Tony Yanow, who co-owns Golden Road Brewery and Tony’s Dart’s Away in Burbank (so their beer selection is in good hands). Website || Yelp
Whiskey Bar: Seven Grand (Downtown)
Seven Grand has insanely great whisky sours. Go. Get one. You won’t be disappointed. They also feature 375 whisky selections. So when you order your whisky sour, have one in mind. The bar feels like a long forgotten college pool hall—and it’s awesome. Not to be confused with Seven Lounge down the block, which is a douchy night club. Website || Yelp
Plain ‘ol American
These places don’t fit into a category of their own. Let’s call them the misfits.
Seafood: Connie & Ted’s (West Hollywood)
As I write this, last night’s meal at Connie & Ted’s is fresh in my mind (and likely still in my stomach). The lobster roll, while overpriced for its size, is a butter-loaded, artery-clogging blessing from the gods. The grilled calamari, served with an herb-packed marinara sauce is heavenly. Connie & Ted’s offers an impressive variety of fish based on the day, a large beer selection, and over a dozen oysters from around the country to choose from. It’s got an awesome vibe — like New England seafood joint meets Los Angeles. Website || Yelp
Burger: Stout (Hollywood)
Several days worth of calories have easily made their way into my belly at Stout. There are a ton of great burger bars in this town, but everything at Stout simply adds up to a great experience. The burger selections and fries, fantastic beers on tap and ambiance, paired with the fact that they’re open ‘til 4AM every day make Stout my first choice for a big, heartburn inducing greasy burger. Website || Yelp
Coffee shop: Bricks & Scones (Larchmont)
I love local coffee shops. The problem is they’re either too small to snag a seat or they close early. Bricks & Scones is an exception. They’ve got good coffee, good food, and an abundance of tables to choose from — except on weekend afternoons when it gets packed. Naturally, they make and sell their own scones, but they’re not really scones —more like a sweet, scone-shaped biscuit that’s moist on the inside. I’m there at least once or twice a week. Website || Yelp
Late Night Dining: Kitchen 24 (Hollywood)
Kitchen 24, also known as K24, is a 24-7 slightly upscale diner with locations in Hollywood and West Hollywood. They have one of the longest happy hours in the city, making it a great place to swing by before going out. The best part — you rarely have to wait more than five minutes for a table, if at all. Website || Yelp
Vegan: Cafe Gratitude (Larchmont)
LA has a ton of great vegan restaurants, but what sets Cafe Gratitude apart is their commitment to real, genuine food. There are no “fake” meats—they simply serve great dishes made entirely with vegetables, legumes, nuts, and grains. The vibe is a little hippy-ish, but unless you lack a soul, it’s impossible to leave without feeling better than you did before your arrived. Website || Yelp
Most “So LA:” Ink (Beverly Grove)
Dining at Ink is an experience —one that makes you realize yeah, I’m definitely in Los Angeles. Opened by Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio, Ink makes eating food both weird and fun. Take, for instance, their kale lollipop. Or potato charcoal bowl, served with black vinegar in a tiny spray bottle. The most mind-blowing part is dessert: apple, caramel, shortbread, and burnt wood semifreddo. To make the semifreddo, they steep custard in burnt wood, aerate it through a whipped cream canister, and drop it into liquid nitrogen. BOOM! Website || Yelp
High End: Hatfields (Hancock Park)
Come with a loaded wallet and an adventurous pallet. If you’re feeling trusting of chef Quin Hatfield, go for the chef’s tasting, a seven-course adventure through everything from sweetbreads, to chicken, to steak. The only hitch is there’s no menu; it changes daily, and you don’t know what you’re getting until it’s in front of you. For bold diners only. Website || Yelp
Small plates
Small plates are brilliant. They allow you to try upwards of a dozen dishes during a meal, compared to one or two at a traditional restaurant. LA has an abundance of them, which makes me very happy.
Mediterranean: Cleo (Hollywood)
If there’s one word to describe Cleo’s food, it’s bliss. It’s warm comfort food meets Mediterranean cuisine. On many occasions I‘ve considered going and just ordering their lebaneh dip with laffa bread because it’s that fucking good. Other favorites include crispy brussels sprouts served with hazelnuts, mushrooms with dates and rice — so beautifully cooked they taste like meat, and any of the flatbreads. A great spot for birthdays, just make a reservation well in advance. Website || Yelp
Italian: Bacaro LA (Downtown)
Arrive at Baraco early, as they don’t take reservations for parties of less than six. Their small plate concept is simple: $8 each, or 3 for $21, which puts Bacaro at the more reasonably priced end of the spectrum when it comes to tapas. They feature an excellent selection of beer and wine, which changes frequently. Bacaro’s extensive happy hour deals are worth checking out as well. Website || Yelp
Seafood: Son of a Gun (Beverly Grove)
As a New England native, I’m a fan of seafood and enjoy trying it in different presentations and styles. Son of a Gun’s menu changes seasonally, but you’ll usually find the shrimp toast sandwich (exactly what it sounds like; the toast is soaked and then cooked in butter) and the lobster roll (with celery and lemon aïoli), both of which are must-gets. The restaurant isn’t cheap, so save it for a special occasion. Website || Yelp
Weird: Animal (Beverly Grove)
Animal has weird shit, and I love everything about it. It’s owned by the same guys as Son of a Gun, though this location is unmarked outside and easy to miss. As the name implies, it’s not a place for vegetarians or the non-adventurous. Check out Animal if you’re willing to try veal brains, pig head, sweetbreads, or beef tendon. They offer several not-as-weird plates, but if you’re lucky enough to score a reservation, why not go all out? Website || Yelp
Brunch
I fucking love brunch. The food, the communal aspect and the time of day you do it make it a perfect balance of all things heavenly. Nearly every brunch I’ve had in LA has been great, so narrowing down this list (by location) was a challenge.
Downtown: KTCHN DTLA
KTCHN DTLA is a pop-up brunch restaurant with a current residency at The Gorbals in The Alexandria Hotel on Spring St. It’s the most unique brunch experience I’ve had, with dishes like brie with grits, duck hash, and Thai curry pork. It’s worth a trek downtown but make a reservation first. Website || Yelp
West Hollywood: Salt’s Cure
As the name implies, Salt’s Cure cures their own meats, all of which are sourced locally (including their fish, vegetables and wines). They have a fantastic dinner menu, which rotates nightly. But for a less-pricy alternative, go for brunch. The tiny, 10-table restaurant, allows your food to travel less than 10-15 feet from open kitchen to table. Everything — especially their meats — taste super fresh. I almost always order the 2x2x2: 2 eggs, 2 sausages, and 2 pieces of bacon (pictured here). Or if they have it, their short rib hash is to die for. Website || Yelp
Central LA: Sycamore Kitchen
Sycamore Kitchen reminds me of my favorite cafe of all time, Flour Bakery in Boston. It’s got a homey, order-at-the-counter approach, with a small but tasty breakfast menu and an insane variety of pastries. Their large, outdoor patio is a great place to spend a Sunday morning. Website || Yelp
West Side: Sauce on Hampton
Sauce has the best breakfast sandwich I’ve ever had, hands down. And I’ve had a lot of breakfast sandwiches. This colossal sandwich contains two eggs, applewood bacon, cheddar, swiss and mozzarella, tomato, red onion and aioli, all nestled between a fresh ciabatta roll. A great spot to hit up before a day at the beach. Website || Yelp
Shops & Trucks
Los Angeles is crawling with food trucks and gourmet food shops. If you feel like indulging, check out these places. If you feel like being fat, try my favorite food truck.
Cheese: The CheeseStore of Silverlake
The folks working at the CheeseStore of Silverlake know their shit. They recently helped me beautifully pair six beers with their cheeses. Stop in and try anything you fancy, pick up a bottle of wine, some olive oil, or freshly baked bread. Website || Yelp
Butcher Shop: Lindy & Grundy (Beverly Grove)
Lindy and Grundy sources local, organic meats, within 150 miles of the city. Last time I visited they were hacking away at a cow on their gigantic butchering block. My favorite might be their in-house smoked bacon. The only downside, as is the case with most things local and organic, is it’s expensive. I only make it there when prepping for special occasion dinners or to splurge on a half pound of bacon for fun (which will run you $8). But, it’s worth every penny. Website || Yelp
Food Truck: The Grilled Cheese Truck (Varies)
Grilled cheese is in these days, and no place capitalizes on this trend better than The Grilled Cheese Truck. If you’re willing to brave the lines that typically stretch down the street outside of their cheesy, bright yellow trucks, order the signature Cheesy Mac and Rib. Inside: macaroni & cheese with sharp cheddar, BBQ pork, and caramelized onions. You’ll love it in the moment, hate yourself afterwards, and then start stalking the truck on Twitter to find out where they’ll be next. Website || Yelp
While 413 may seem like a lot, there are thousands of restaurants in Los Angeles. I’ve only skimmed the surface. Next up: exploring the West Side, Koreatown, and Downtown.
To be continued.
