A Day in the Life: Harz, Germany
Introduction
Unless you’ve been, lived, or have family in Germany, you probably haven’t heard of the Harz mountains but are probably familiar with some of its history and significance.
This ‘Day in the Life’ article delves into a brief history of the Harz and details some interesting and fantastical things to do and see in the area. If you want a more “authentic” German experience where tourists are more far and few when compared to Berlin or Munich (München), then the Harz is a perfect place to visit.
Brief History
Kurze Geschichte
Uncommon Travel Germany describes the Harz as, “…the land of German fairy tales: steep-roofed houses with tiny windows and narrow, cobblestone streets, dark forests, rushing streams and stormy mountains.” This was the region where childhood fairytales about dwarves and witches developed. If you are familiar with the show Grimm, then you’ll be familiar with the modern age version of these stories. Today, there is still folklore that is prevalent throughout the Harz, particularly around frühjahrsfest (Spring Festival), when people of the village come together to celebrate the coming of spring and the witches of the Harz. You can read more into this festival and the witches here.
The Harz region also serves as an important site in World War II because of its armaments industry. Several work camps or concentration camps were setup to force prisoners to build weapons. Noteworthy weapons that came out of that region were the V-1 rocket and V-2 rocket. Because of Germany’s deep history in World War II and its ‘never forget’ mentality, you can visit several sites that are still intact.
The Harz region is also known for its herbal liquor called, “Schierker Feuerstein”. Americans might be more familiar with the Jägermeister, which is a similar type of alcohol but obviously more widely produced. Schierker is only located in Germany.
What to Do & Say
Machen und Kommunication
What I am going to propose to do in a day will look and probably feel weird. But that’s the highlight of intercultural travel, right? My day in the Harz region begins with eating at a traditional cafe and then transitions into exploring the sorrowful and dark history of the area before ending the day in a German sauna.
Als Erstes: Kaffee, Tea, und Waffeln
Start the day off with some Frühstück (breakfast) by going to a specialty cafe. Now, Germans in the Harz region aren’t ones for rushing for their morning coffee like some Americans do. Drive-thrus and ‘fast’ coffee are really not the norm. When getting coffee or tea, you would likely sit down and have a pastry. A lovely cafe in the Harz region is called Cafe Schnibbe. Coffee is usually made through a french press or a pour over, hence why you need to take your time. Some pastries like the Belgian Waffles, also need time to be prepared.
When it comes to language barriers in the Harz, you’ll encounter many more individuals who do not speak fluent English as compared to more populous and tourist regions (like Berlin and Frankfurt). Thus, the Harz region is a perfect place to practice your German skills!
When ordering your items, it is common for individuals to use the phrase, “Ich nehme ein(e) <insert item here>”. For example, “Ich nehme ein Kaffee, bitte” means, “I’ll have a coffee, please.” The term for ‘thank you’ is tpyically, “Danke” or “Vielen Dank” if you’re feeling ‘extra’ thankful. The response “bitte” is what you would say as ‘you’re welcome.’
After taking your time at the cafe, head to Mittelbau-Dora KZ (concentration camp) for some deep and necessary commentary on how WWII influenced this region, its people, and culture greatly.
Zum Zweiten: Mittelbau — Dora KZ
As mentioned in the brief history section, the Harz region was a famous site for concentration camps or work camps from World War II. One in particular is called Mittelbau-Dora KZ, located near the city of Nordhausen. Mittelbau-Dora KZ (Dora for short) was known for its productive of V-1 and V-2 rockets and was in operation from about August 1943-April 1945. These rockets were produced in underground tunnels. Dora ‘housed’ over 10,000 inmates at one point but never really housed inmates in the traditional concentration camp setup.
Inmates at Dora lived and worked mainly in the tunnels. Sleeping chambers were tight, food rations were meager, and living conditions were absolutely unlivable as several inmates died, committed suicide, or were murdered.
Walking through the tunnels is absolutely chilling. Hearing about the work conditions, the lives lost, and the process in which inmates were treated was eyeopening in understanding the reality of what had happened not too long ago. Documents, pictures, and even video of Dora are available at the museum itself.
During my tour of Dora, one gentleman actually argued with the tour leader, stating that his information about the mistreatment of Russians was incorrect in this region. The gentleman claimed that his family was there during those times and recalled those situations. It was in that moment that I truly realized how recent, severe, and individual these memories of the war were to the people who lived there.
Much much more about Dora can be read about on its website or Wikipedia page. Visitors at Dora can take a guided tour in the tunnels and see rubble that still exists from those days. Tours are mostly done in German but visitors can also purchase an audio tour with an English, French, or Dutch accompaniment.
Dritte: Therme
After spending the better part of the afternoon at Dora, it is necessary to unwind to reflect about the day. The perfect way to do this is visiting a German spa (called Therme in German). German spas do not have the same ‘wow’ factor that American spas give off. Usually in the United States, people will go to spas as a special treat or occasion. In Germany, spas are part of normal everyday life. People often visit spas weekly or even more than that. Having a spa pass can be compared to having a gym pass in the United States.
Since spa life is more engrained in German culture, there are several to choose from in the Harz region. The one I’ll focus on here is near where the day started in Bad Lauterberg and is called Kirchberg-Therme.At Kirchberg, you will find several pools, steam rooms, saunas, and hot tubs. Saunas have different temperatures and overall vibe. For example, the sauna below heats up to 140 degrees Fahrenheit and has some interesting and calming decor.
German spa etiquette should be studied before entering the spa. I remember my excitement about going to a nice German spa for the first time. I really enjoy laying in saunas and steam rooms and only ever got to do so in gyms or maybe once on vacation. When I walked into Kirchberg-Therme though, I quickly realized that communication at a German spa was much different than in American or resort spas.
When going to a German spa/sauna, particularly Kirchberg-Therme, there are general rules you should follow.
- Shower before entering the sauna area. German saunas will usually provide you with shower amenities.
- Understand the co-ed restrictions before deciding to go in the sauna. Some German saunas will be entirely co-ed, some will have designated hours for only females.
- Always carry a towel with you when walking around the sauna area.
- Finally, if you see the sign ‘textilfrei’, then you should be completely naked throughout the entire sauna area.
When I walked into Kirchberg-Therme for the first time, I thought the naked requirement would only be set once inside the sauna room and that people wouldn’t walk around the facility naked. I was very wrong. Once entering the sauna area (after showering), individuals derobe immediately. If you aren’t ‘textilfrei’ then you stand out even more and it is pretty insulting to the sauna culture. This was a co-ed sauna by the way. Being American, I really didn’t feel comfortable getting naked in front of a bunch of strangers as well as some close friends that came with me to the spa. I had to walk back out in the ‘safe’ area and rethink my thoughts.
After rethinking and feeling pretty left out, I went “YOLO” and went back in the sauna area, derobed, and started to immerse myself in German sauna culture.
In short, Germans do not attach sexuality to being naked in a sauna. That’s the distinction between an American and a German in a sauna. As I walk around and try not to look, it makes it even worse. I’m looking all over the place. But everyone else is just enjoying the sauna in the purest way. After 30 minutes, I got more comfortable with being naked in front of others. However, it is extremely difficult for me to take away the sexual nature of the naked body as well as my gender and age identity in this situation. Recognizing what blocked me from this experience helped me adjust better.
Although you will find several German saunas, spas, or therme in the country, Kirchberg-Therme gives off a very intimate and authentic feeling as its nestled in the Harz mountains. I’m sure saunas near more tourist areas will have more expats and explorers. I was absolutely the only outsider during my experience. I actually think this helped me really take in the entire culture of saunas in Germany.
Final Thoughts
By exploring the comforts of European cafes, inserting yourself in the deep and rich history of WWII, and picking a relaxing site such as a sauna, you will be exposed to some cultural artifacts of the Harz region and German culture as a whole. Hopefully this article has enlightened you to some interesting facts and places in the Harz region. As someone who was married in the Harz and visits there often, I have had the great fortune to explore its beauty and hidden gems in the area. The Harz region will expose you to a different slice of German life and history. You wont find huge beers, lederhosen, or Oktoberfest here. You’ll find some comfort, mystery, and some heart-wrenching history.
Please let me know if you’ve been to the Harz region as I’d love to hear about new places and your experience. If you or someone else plan to visit Germany, consider adding the Harz region to your itinerary and come back here to let me know =).
Tschüss und gute Reise
Disclaimer: This article was written as part of an Intercultural Communication class at University of Nebraska — Lincoln under the direction of Jennifer Kienzle. Students chose different regions of the world to explore the unique history and cultural practices in those places. Please contact Jennifer Kienzle at jen@huskers.unl.edu if you have any questions or comments.
