Historical Bit:
Gokteik Viaduct
The bridge is between Pyin Oo Lwin and Lashio, the principal town of northern Shan State. It is the highest bridge in Myanmar and when it was completed in 1900, it was the largest railway trestle in the world. The components were made and shipped from the US by the Pennsylvania Steel Company, and the rail line itself was constructed as a way for the British Empire to expand their influence in the region. Sir Arthur Rendel, an engineer for the Burma Railroad Company, oversaw the construction project.
The viaduct stretches 678m from end to end. Measuring from the ground, the tallest tower is 102m. Due to its technical and natural condition, it is considered as a masterpiece of the world standard.
-Wikipedia
Hsipaw to Pyin Oo Lwin train ride is one of the best 7-hour experiences during the trip in Myanmar. There is already a ton of testimonials online regarding this train with a fantastic view over the Gokteik Bridge, one of the oldest in history.
After inquiring at the guesthouse, we got to the train station by 8:45am and waited until the tickets were sold at 9am. There was a very needy grandpa dog wanting to be patted. Burmese people don’t usually pat animals so when the dogs see foreigners, they will happily run up to them.
4 USD, train departs at 9:40am and takes about 7 hours to Pyin Oo Lwin.
The train ride from Hsipaw to Mandalay is one of the most beautiful in the world with the main highlight being the Gokteik Bridge. The tracks have barely gotten any renovation since the first half of the 1900s, so the train basically passes over a piece of history. This train shakes and bounces a lot and walking in the train would be very difficult without bumping everywhere.
There will be time to get off in small towns to buy food. Snacks are sold on the train as well. There will also be ladies walking close to the train with food baskets.
We were in the VIP car (the ticket seller assumes we will want that) so it was basically a foreigner car. But interestingly, when we were crossing the Gokteik Viaduct, only a few of the people facing the good side took a few photos and went on to take something from their backpacks or continued reading their books or listening to their music. I was actually expecting everyone to take turns to stick out their faces out the window as in the pictures I’ve seen on numerous blogs before I went. Everyone seemed to get very excited in tunnels, though.
One thing to keep in mind, though, is that the train not only swings side by side, but also back and forth. People were smart enough to buckle their backpacks around the racks, but I’ve seen some fruits flying all over the place from the plastic bag that was hanging from a hook.
The train goes through a market town called Kyaukme (pronounced chalk-may), also known for trekking. We stopped here around 11:30am for half an hour.
The train continued for another hour until the Gokteik Viaduct came in sight. The train slowed down in order to cross.
What really filled my heart was seeing the locals. There would be dust storms from the children running through rows of banana trees, waving (and it’s not one of those timid, oh-hello waves but a huge, wild ones as if to pour out their welcoming soul through the gesture). Behind these children, full of excitement or enthusiasm, there are also mothers in the houses made of bamboos, holding onto their toddlers, waving together with genuine smiles. Infants are no exception; the moms will hold their hands to wave. There must be foreigners continuously passing on to the next destination every day, but I guess they never grow tired of greeting each and every one travelling.
Sometimes I waved back. Sometimes I held out my camera. But I always found myself candidly smiling — the way they were. But since the “pose” they know in front of a camera is standing stiff and straight with a serious expression, they would sometimes smile and wave, but freeze all of a sudden and get into their camera pose. Or some just didn’t care.
At most stations, dogs are everywhere. In some places, a pack of dogs can be seen, wagging tails and playing with each other.
We stopped at more train stations and breezed through the fields for a while.
I do feel bad and rude sometimes when I zoom in on locals’ faces. But in Myanmar, as much as we foreigners take pictures of the Burmese locals, they also take pictures of you in the train. They will hold out their smart phones and seconds later, they will shyly turn around and check their pictures.
Although there is no actual interaction, a receding view of the locals on streets, in fields, and at stations, is more than enough to make you feel the curious and welcoming hearts of Myanmar.
Day 7 — Hsipaw, Gokteik Viaduct, Pyin Oo Lwin
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If you know Korean and would like to read up on train ride over Gokteik Bridge in Korean, click here.
