[Myanmar] Yangon

Yangon Traffic

The taxi in front is trying to go straight. The bus on the left is turning right. The other bus is coming from the right, as you can see, and going straight.

Yangon traffic is highly interesting and entertaining. The cars have drivers’ seats on the right (I’m assuming this is from the influence while the British settled here) and they drive also on the right side of the road. There are three-way roads but the direction of the flow would change depending on the traffic light. The buses are imported from Korea and Japan and still had the banners in their languages. So they sometimes have doors on the right, sometimes on the left. If people wanted to get on the Japanese buses, they would have to cross a lane and climb in from the middle of the road. There are lanes indeed but they have no significance. There would be three lanes drawn on the ground but 5 rows of cars actually on the roads. If cars wanted to turn left (remember they drive on the right side of the road), they would just keep to the left-est lane possible, even if that meant they are driving in the wrong direction, until they finally turn. The cars driving toward you don’t even honk. Instead, they drive full speed, and stop right before they hit. It basically feels like Universal Studio ride, where you think you’re going to get hit but you don’t, and the ride continues as if nothing happened.

This is a “taxi.” People get seated on the back, side by side. Usually there are people’s belongings tied at the top but sometimes there would be people seated up there too.

Yangon streets

This is on my way to currency exchange. Make sure to get new, clean notes because they will worth more at the exchange. Many people don’t even receive your US money if it has wrinkles or tears on them. I exchanged about $500 (USD) to use for a month, since some Burmese people prefer US dollars. If it’s food, definitely pay in Burmese kyats. When paying the local guides, US dollars will often prevent them from spending money right away and help them save. Other than that, either currency works.

Haggling

Don’t forget to haggle when buying souvenirs. It’s quite rare to be ripped off in Myanmar but you can still manage 5–20% discount, maybe more if buying in large amounts. There were occasions when I intentionally didn’t haggle and that was when buying someone’s artwork that I thought was way too high-quality (In Bagan, there was a man who was selling amazing works of sand art while taking care of murals at a pagoda he was in at his expense). If you forget to haggle, you will see a surprise on the sellers’ faces and instantly get reminded.

There were chickens outside on the street.

After the currency exchange, we headed to Bogyoke Aung San Market.

(Right) Sugar canes for sugar cane juice, squeezed between the wheels seen on right.

This is the Bogyoke market.

Bogyoke Aung San Market

Formerly known as Scott Market back in 1926, named after the municipal commissioner, Gavin Scott, the market was renamed as Bogyoke Aung San Market after the Burmese independence. It is pronounced “BO-joke” market, or “bo-jo-zay,” zay meaning market in Burmese.

This is a great place to buy Burmese handicrafts, such as wood carvings or lacquerware. **Quality is not guaranteed.** The market is also known for its clothing and fabrics, so Margaret and I were going to buy our longyi sets here. Somewhere on the internet suggested upstairs vendors for custom-made longyi but considering we were going to be in Yangon for only a few days, we decided to pick out decent ones from the main floor.

At the longyi shop.

It was incredibly hot and the market wasn’t cool enough. This led us to constant lookout for fresh fruit juice. We would hang about near stores and soon be given English menus for the juice. Someone would set out tables and chairs right on the street in front of you or just bring the juice over for takeout.

A boy bringing fruit juice.

Artwork made of bamboo. This randomly reminds me of a book on English grammar by Lynne Truss, opening with a story of a panda walking into a restaurant, which eats, shoots, and leaves… But back to Yangon.

There is a bridge crossing over a railroad. There are more stores on the other side as well.

For those who feel like pampering themselves after the long hours of heat, I recommend Vivi Beauty for mani-/pedicure or massage services. Price is good, too. If not, I would suggest you try out the popular dessert place called Ya Kun Kaya Toast, just outside the Bogyoke Market. It’s Singaporean but it has tasty toasts, refreshing drinks, wi-fi, and air conditioner, so why not.

Kandawgyi Nature Park (formerly Victoria Lakes)

Pronounced kahn-duh-ji, the lake is best known for its Karaweik Hall, a replica of a traditional Burmese royal boat. There is an entrance fee of 1000 kyats to the park and an admission fee of 30,000 kyats to get inside the hall. I may have read somewhere on the internet that if you enter on the southeast corner, the entrance fee is 300 kyats into the park. There may have been some camera fees.

This is the way into the famous Karaweik Hall, which is now basically a very expensive restaurant.

There are tons of pretty restaurants like these at Kandawgyi park. You can get seated near the lake. This doesn’t help with heat, though.

As a Canadian, this was irritating at an extreme level. Glass and plastic together! IN A GARBAGE CAN!

Myanmar letters and a lizard on the ground.

This is a better view of Karaweik Hall from the south of Kandawgyi lake.

The floor of the boardwalk is a series of long wooden boards. I don’t know how they were put together but when I stepped on one end, the other end was lifting. Margaret and I took turns to walk so that we don’t lose balance because of each other.

People exercising in the park.

More dogs on streets! The two were playing with each other until the people at the cart provided some food.

We ended our second day early to recover from the heat as we were still adapting to the new climate.

Say hello to our little roomie at our guesthouse room. Look at its tiny toes.

The next day, we began our day early before the heat struck. Plus, we were planning on getting on the circular train before departing from Yangon in the afternoon.

We went to Feel Myanmar Food restaurant for breakfast (two days in a row! So good!) and continued trying out different dishes to get a taste of Burmese cuisine. They have English menus and price is very affordable. There were tons of locals here.

Chinese style doughnut with sweet, milky tea. You dip the doughnut in the tea.

After long breakfast, we headed to Maha Bandoola Garden.

Men in the trees! HINT: There are 3 :D

Police trucks.

Maha Bandoola Garden

The park is named after General Maha Bandoola, who fought against the British in the First Burma War. There is the Independence Monument built inside to signify Myanmar’s independence. The garden offers a great view of the City Hall, and colonial buildings of the British.

A man selling watermelons at the entrance of the garden.

Independence Monument. And I’m wearing longyi.

Margaret happy in front of Yangon City Hall.

The historic Rowe & Co department store building, now an AYA bank.

Sule Pagoda and High Court building.

The High Court building, which was in use until 2006. The Supreme Court of Myanmar is now in its capital, Naypyitaw.

Kids playing.

Day 2 — Feel Myanmar Food, Bogyoke Aung San Market, Karaweik Hall, Kandawgyi Lake

Day 3 — Feel Myanmar Food, Maha Bandoola Garden…

Next post on Yangon’s Circular Train

Previous post in Yangon (Day 1 — Rangoon Tea House, Chauk Htat Gyi, Shwedagon)

If you know Korean and would like to read up on my time in Yangon in Korean, click here.