What I’m Drinking: 2012 Domaine Laguerre “Le Ciste”

One reason Toto was an interesting band was because it was composed entirely of session musicians. The point of a band was to have a superstar (or two or three) surrounded by a strong supporting cast. But Toto is what happens when a band is entirely formed from a supporting cast. Similarly, much about drinking wine “good” wine focuses on a single grape and its internal fidelity. Is it a representative example of Chardonnay, or something different? Is it a standard-issue Chenin?

The whites of the Cotes du Roussillon are similarly interesting because they are composed entirely of supporting grapes. In fact, the Cotes du Roussillon AOC stipulates that wines must include at least three different varietals and that no two can make up more than 90% of the finished wine.

The Domaine Laguerre “Le Ciste” is a wildly democratic blend. It comprises no more than 25% or less than 15% of any single grape. It is a wonderfully oily mix of Marsanne, Rousanne, Rolle (aka Vermentino in Italy), Grenache blanc and Maccabeu (aka Viura in Spain) — All grapes usually mixed with “higher quality” grapes like Chardonnay.

But here’s the rub. Pure Chardonnay wines can be great. They can also be terrible. Marsanne, Rousanne, Rolle, Grenache blanc and Maccabeu are the ultimate team players. Is your Chardonnay too oaky and buttery? A little Marsanne and Rousanne can give it a steely backbone that’s hard to find in a pure-breed. Is your Maccabeu-based Viura heavy and acidic, a white-fruit bomb? A little Grenache blanc will join the party, partially oxidizing and bringing some nut and yeast flavors to the party that keep your thoroughbred Viura from tasting like sangria.

There’s nothing wrong with a $17 bottle blended from five grapes, all of whom prefer to be in the background. Among the best things are those which supersede the sum of their parts.