Spend a day living like a local in Tirana, Albania

Tirana, Albania is home of to some of the most welcoming, friendly people of any place I have ever been. My first day consisted of learning about the history of Albania on a free walking tour.

Related: 15 unique facts about Albania

The day following the walking tour, I was about to sit down with a local for another series of “Travel Tips From a Local” which you can read here.

Today, it was time to take the local’s advice. My itinerary for the day consisted of 3 historic sites, 4 meals, and 5 desserts.

Site 1: House of Leaves

“This museum is dedicated to those innocent people who were spied on, arrested, prosecuted, convicted, and executed during the communist regime.”

The House of Leaves went from being a healthcare facility to an interrogation center that was also used for the practice of torture tactics. When Dr. Basho’s clinic ended, the building became a secret mystery. It was home to the “Sigurimi”, a unit of the Directorate of State Security. Sigurimi was responsible for the interception of telephone and postal communications and surveillance of foreigners.

“Do not enter, there are bugs”

Not knowing what this meant, I respected the sign and passed this room. I continued walking then noticed “do not enter, there are bugs” was written next to every room. I assumed it meant something so I asked someone and they said “You enter! Bugs.” Not speaking English, there was no room for questions. Right as I got into the room, it all made sense…

“In this room are documents and materials relating to research on camouflage techniques and technologies for purposes of surveillance, demonstrating the Sigurimi’s efforts to perfect and instrumentalize everyday objects and garments.”

“The bug”, an A1 Transmitter, was put on everyday objects like radios, shoes, coats, purses, watches, clocks, and basically any item around the house or piece of clothing to listen in on people’s conversations.

One of my favorite parts was the video room. I put on headphones and listened to people talk about living through the communist era and prison camps. It was really sad to see how they were spied on, forcibly set up by their best friends, taken to prison camps for their private conversations, and aggressively pulled out of their own houses in front of their whole family… never to be seen again.

“Beliefs are personal and I went to prison for them, but my relatives suffered in vain, not being guilty. My father paid with his life. The family of my sister was destroyed.”

“We were in prison in an area where pyrite was extracted, which is the union of sulfur with iron. Pyrite creates thermal reaction in contact with air and produces heat. The temperature inside the mine (where he worked) reached 111 degrees. My body was covered in yellow spots.”

Site 2: Bunk’Art 2

Bunk’Art 2 is one of the 175,000 bunkers that were built across the country of Albania. This was an underground “secret bunker” that was built to withstand a potential chemical and nuclear attack.

The first room I walked into was the year 1913: the creation of the gendarmerie. I wasn’t sure what this was so I asked the lady working and it is similar to the police force. This was a museum dated back much further than the House of Leaves. It covered 1913–1991. Two of the interesting things read were how they had 200 trained dogs that lined the boarder/surrounded the prison camps and that there were 34 crimes punishable by death penalty. Many of these “crimes” were people having private conversations not knowing they were being spied on or set up.

Meal 1: Qofte

I walked into my first recommended restaurant, Zgara Zhidro (Kavaja Street), and ordered my first recommended meal, byrek. When I got back to the hostel, I told them I didn’t get bryek because they didn’t have it… I was told 1) you said it wrong so maybe they didn’t understand you or 2) some places call it lakror. Anyway, I figured I could get byrek/lakror tomorrow and ended up getting my second recommended meal, Qofte. Qofte was described to me as meatballs filled with cheese and/or spinach. I guess it depends on the place, but mine was the shape of a patty. Nonetheless, the cheese filled qofte was delicious!

Meal 2: Fërgesë

As I waited for my qofte, I was looking at my recommendations and saw fërgesë so I thought why not! Fërgesë, the most typical meal from Tirana, was described to me as “cream cheese, but thicker, with meat and peppers.” I literally had no idea what to expect from this description but I had to try the most local meal! It was served in a sizzling hot bowl with a loaf of bread. The bread was absolutely perfection and the cheese/pepper/hummus like dip (mine didn’t have meat I don’t think) was the perfect combo.

Dessert 1, 2, and 3: Baklava, Tulumba, Llokum

I was recommended the bakery closest to Zgara Zhidro (Kavaja Street location), but they said, “no name” when I asked what it was called. As I walked out of the bakery, I asked my server, and about 3 others workers where the closest bakery was but each encounter ended with a good laugh as we couldn’t understand each other. He ended up walking me to one of his friends who could understand… “Bakery? What? Say again.” Bak-er-y “Ooooh Bakery, that way.” It wasn’t a convincing response but I took his word and off I went. I came across the nameless bakery and now it makes sense… there was actually no name or signs to be found, other than the words dessert and bread. PS: to find this bakery, take a right out of the Zgara Zhidro (Kavaja Street location) and it’s 2 doors down on the right.

I ordered baklava, then added Tulumba, and then decided to go all in and get all three. I got my little baggy and walked back to the hostel. I wanted to experience it with Melissa, the person who gave me the recommendations.

“This is the one I don’t like, so eat it first” as she pointed to the Baklava. She originally described it as “layers of pie with dough and walnuts.” As I cut into the crunchy top, a sticky honey like substance oozed out. After the first bite, it was my favorite without even trying the others!

Next up, I was told to try the llokum which is typically given out at weddings in Albania. The one I got had a coconut covering, but she said it is traditionally powdered sugar. I don’t even know how to describe this one but it was a weird substance and very chewy… my least favorite.

Lastly, Melissa’s favorite, tulumba! It reminded me of a donut. It had a solid shell, airy inside, and was super-duper sugary. It was definitely good, but baklava is the winner in my opinion.

Site 3: Castle of Tirana

I set off in search of Luga e Argjendte, a restaurant recommended to me by a few locals. All I knew was that I had to go down the main road, pass Skanderbeg Square, and it would be on the right. When I got to about where it was supposed to be, I was next to the Castle of Tirana. On the walking tour, I remember he said the castle was a cool place to hang out for a drink or cup of coffee. I pictured it as a little café/bar inside of a museum type castle so I continued walking. I looked in every restaurant surrounding the Castle but I couldn’t find Luga e Argjendte. I found myself back at the entrance of the castle so I asked the guy working at the gate. My pronunciation was far off enough for him to have no idea what I was trying to say. Luckily, I had a screenshot of the spelling and he pointed me inside of the castle.

The castle was far from what I pictured, a little café/bar. Inside the castle walls was one of the nicest areas of Albania I had seen. It reminded me of a very nice, newly built, outdoor mall back home in the states. It was full of stores, restaurants and bakeries. My tour guide was totally right, a perfect place to hangout for a drink or cup of coffee. I know where I’ll be hanging out next time I’m in Tirana!

Meal 4 & 5: Byrek & Fërgesë

When I found Luga e Argjendte, I was amazed. The sign outside said organic, farm to table, 100% local farmers, zero food to waste. I felt like I was at a fancy, organic restaurant back home. I ordered byrek, which was described to me as “pie with spinach and cheese.” I wanted to try one more dish so I asked for a recommendation. He pointed to the “Tirana Fërgesë: sour cottage cheese, onions, peppers or eggplants, eggs, oregano.” I tried to talk him into a different recommendation since I had Fërgesë

already, but with a language barrier in full force, I went with his recommendation.

The fërgesë was the best I had and the byrek was great too… Overall, Luga e Argjendte and the Castle of Tirana were a hit: 10/10!

Dessert 4 & 5: Zupa & Baklava

This happened by accident, I promise! I don’t think I have had this much dessert in the past year combined… Anyway, I was walking home from the Castle of Tirana just daydreaming, looking around when I had no idea if I had passed my street. I continue to tell myself to download offline maps but I never do. I think it’s because being lost gives me a reason to talk to strangers, work through language barriers, and have a good laugh.

I took a right, left, left, right, etc. until I came to a dead end… I got back out of the maze and continued on the road I was previously on. I smelled something good, really good. I looked over and saw this super fancy bakery but continued walking past. Someg, why does that sound so familiar, I thought to myself. I stopped and scrolled through my notes and bam! Someg was recommended to me by the owner of the hostel. I had a bit more Lek to spend as I would be leaving in the morning and have no use for it… What better way to go out than more dessert!?

I pulled a classic Joey move and asked a non-English speaker for recommendations. After they clearly have no idea what I’m saying, I ask again as if they just didn’t hear me. Nope. Next best solution: start pointing to things and give it a thumbs up or thumbs down.

She gave a double thumbs up to this gourmet, layered pudding dessert (zupa) and baklava. The fancy zupa looked like it would cost more than I had, and I already tried baklava. I tried to tell her I didn’t have that much cash and I already tried baklava, but she already grabbed them and was headed to the cash register. 230 Lek… That is 1 dollar and 91 cents! Woohoo I could afford it. Check out the picture of the zupa below and tell me how delicious it looks (and you would be shocked too if it cost less than $1.90.)

Someg was a gem to say the least, and the zupa/ baklava combo was the perfect way to end my time in Albania.

TOTAL COSTS:

House of Leaves: 700 Lek= 5.83 USD

Bunk’Art 2: 500 Lek= 4.16 USD

Qofte & Fërgesë at Zgara Zhidro (Kavaja Street): 400 Lek= 3.33 USD

Baklava, Tulumba, Llokum at “no name”: 100 Lek= .83 USD

Castle of Tirana: Free

Byrek & Fërgesë at Luga e Argjendte: 700 Lek= 5.83 USD

Zupa & Baklava at Someg: 230 Lek= 1.91 USD

3 historic sites, 4 meals, and 5 desserts: 21.89 USD

If you plan on going to Tirana, Albania, this is a perfect 1-day itinerary as they were all recommended by a local, are all close to each other, and easy to access by foot. This city has so much more to offer and you can read the full Travel Tips from a Local for more ideas while you visit the amazing, Tirana, Albania.