Life lessons from deep in the Yellowstone backcountry

John Hildebrand
Aug 9, 2017 · 6 min read
@ospreypacks, need a few extra sponsored backpackers? Let me know.

Two rugged, adventure-seeking pals and I embarked on an 8-day, 70-mile survival quest through the Yellowstone backcountry this summer equipped only with what we carried on our backs. I returned grizzled, covered in mosquito bites and eight pounds lighter. I like to think I returned a little wiser as well. These are the lessons I brought home with me.

Packing and Preparation Lessons

  1. Going ultra-lightweight may save your shoulders, hips and back, but skimping too much can really drag down your spirits. The little luxuries that make the final packing cut can go a long way toward lifting your mood when most needed.
    Bring a few pairs of crisp, clean undies and shirts. Those wet wipes you snuck in sure help get the sunscreen and grime off your face before bedtime. And that instant coffee you brought will give you something to crawl out of the sleeping bag for in the morning.
  2. Nothing lifts a tired, hungry soul out of the void quite like a surprise pack of peanut butter. Consider hiding a few in your pack and those of your trail mates - just make sure there aren’t any peanut allergies in the crew.
  3. Bring an epipen. Just in case.
  4. There is no greater feeling than unlacing those hiking boots and peeling off those stinky, sweaty socks after a long day on the trail. Bring a sturdy pair of camp sandals (they’re good for river crossings too) and you’ll be thanking me profusely.
  5. The only place I’ve been that is wilder than the Yellowstone backcountry is the Amazon. An immense amount of respect and preparation is key to any trip into the Yellowstone backcountry. Read up. Consult with people who have been there and done that. Check in with rangers on trail conditions and closures. Bring quality gear. When you’re out there, it’s just you, your crew and the wild.
  6. Despite the tremendous amount of variety available these days, freeze dried camp food really sucks after about five days. I’d highly recommend doing research and getting creative with your food prep if you want to avoid looking like the guys in the picture below.
“Go backpacking,” they said. “It’ll be fun,” they said. Photo credit: tiagocosta.photo

Trail and Camp Lessons

  1. The mind is a powerful tool. 17.5 miles on the trail can be a day of absolute hell or one full of tremendous challenges. It all depends on your mental approach. The less you think about the mileage you have yet to go, the better off you’ll be.
  2. Singing the entirety of Queen’s Greatest Hits from memory can distract you from at least 25 minutes of that searing foot pain torture you’ve elected to inflict upon yourself. Don’t worry, you can make up most of the words you don’t know or just repeat the ones you do know over and over. And over.
  3. Check the map before you hit the trail. Wish I’d read that one on Day 5.
  4. National park rules are in place for a reason. Making an exception to the regulations might make sense to you on an individual level on a case-by-case basis, but those rules are meant to be followed en masse. Respect the rules, even if it means you have to walk an extra 100 feet to pee. Leave No Trace makes sense, so please just follow the damn rules. Do it for the animals, the rest of us and for future wilderness explorers.
  5. No matter how cold the water, take a dip in that creek/river/lake. It’s worth it and your tent mates will appreciate the attempt at mitigating your stink factor. Just look out for leeches.
  6. Teamwork is essential in the backcountry. Don’t go alone unless you’re highly trained and well-prepared because you’ll inevitably need to rely on someone at some point.
    Remember the goal is that everyone gets out alive and well. Put that ahead of anything else and set aside your ego, or the wilderness will do that for you.
8 days, 70 miles and I think we still like each other?

Animal Lessons

Image source: https://detroitzoo.files.wordpress.com/2015/09/marten-branch.jpeg
  1. This is a marten. Not a tree weasel.
  2. Despite the tremendous amount of bear safety tips and horror stories you’re bound to hear, bears aren’t vicious, flesh-devouring predators out there in the trees waiting to maul you. They’re just big, stinky, omnivores with big teeth and claws who, like, want to stay alive and don’t really want you messing with their survival. If you’re smart, respectful and well-prepared, you’ve got relatively little to fear.
  3. That said, carry your bear spray at all times. And don’t be an idiot and bring food into your tent in bear country.
  4. Speaking of spray, DEET bug spray keeps Yellowstone-bred mosquitos away for like 45 minutes. It will also melt plastic. The stuff is toxic, but since the alternative is literally being devoured alive, I’ll take my chances with the efficacy of a DEET cleanse upon my return.
    If you elect to bring it, bring A LOT.
  5. If you want to see a bear, don’t yell “AYOOO, BEAR!” every 30 seconds. This, however, is a very effective strategy if you’d like to avoid bear encounters altogether.
  6. Bull moose, despite being enormous creatures, can walk virtually silently through the forest and surprise you in your camp. If this happens, I suggest not freaking out because if there’s one thing wild animals really don’t like, it’s unexpected freak-outs.
  7. Yellowstone Animal Spotting Game:
    - Grizzly Bear: 30 points
    - Black Bear: 20 points
    - Moose: 10 points
    - Elk and/or Bison herds: 5 points
    - Bald eagle: 5 points
    - Miscellaneous rodents/marsupials/unidentifiable animals: 5 points (adjustable according to rarity once identified)
    - Deer: 0 points (sorry, Tiago)
    Prize: A dessert of the individual’s choosing upon reentry into civilization.
    *Caution* Game can get unexpectedly contentious.

Nature and Life Lessons

NW Yellowstone in her spectacular morning glory.
  1. An ecosystem in balance is fragile and needs to be respected. Removal of one element can completely alter the entire system. Read about the tremendous trophic cascade effect reintroducing wolves had on the Yellowstone ecosystem.
  2. We NEED to protect our wilderness areas. Wild places are rare these days and becoming rarer. Support initiatives to keep these places wild and trust those who know the lands best.
  3. Mankind’s collective hubris has led us to a dangerous tipping point in our evolution. It’s so easy to get caught up in the rat race and mentality of “Produce, Consume and Advance.” Spending a week in the wild will inevitably humble you to the point where you recognize how fragile life can be, how unfathomably enormous nature is and how insignificant our day-to-day worries are in the grand scheme of things.
  4. Forcing yourself way out of your day-to-day comfort zone will assuredly help you prioritize what really matters in life.
    List of what really matters (in order): Water, food, shelter, bison burgers, safety, bug spray, brownie fudge sundaes, friends/family, sweet potato fries, sleep.
  5. Do hard things. The sense of accomplishment is well worth the pain you put yourself through.
  6. There is absolutely NO better sight than seeing your car at the trailhead after 8 days in the woods only eating freeze dried meals and sleeping like smelly sardines in a tent.
    Just make sure you know where you put your keys.
John Hildebrand

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I explore, learn, and connect to be inspired. I share to inspire others. Insta: johnny_alabaster

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