A Day and Night in Tel Aviv, Isreal
Introduction
You have likely heard of Israel from the news in the context of Israeli-Palstinian conflict, though you may be less aware of the fantastic beaches, vibrant night life, and other features that make Israel’s second most populous city, Tel Aviv, a great place to visit and explore. From the perspective of a past visitor as a former member of the USA Maccabi Men’s Gymnastics Team, I can vouche for this city as having something to offer for a diverse crowd. It is an especially fun place for adventurous “20 somthings” to have a good time in a new cultural setting, if willing to travel a little ways from home. Through this article I plan to share some brief history and discuss a great way to spend a day in Tel Aviv, Israel.
Brief History
Tel Aviv was founded in 1909 by primarily middle-class immigrants who had hoped to build a European style suburb with modern urban infrastructure and services. The new suburb was on the outskirts of the primarily Arab city, Jaffa. Founders hoped to develop straight and wide streets and parks. This new territory was intitially run by an elected autonomous local council.
Tel Aviv’s population boomed in the 1920s with waves of Jewish immigrants from Palestine seeking to avoid anti-Jewish riots involving Arab attacks on Jewish populations. Also around this time, immigrants began arriving from Germany and Poland with capital, promoting growth and economical development. In 1921, Tel Aviv was granted township status. In 1934, it gained full municipal (city) status with Meir Dizengoff in place as the first mayor.
In 1948, prior to Israel’s Declaration of Independence, Jewish military forces took control of Jaffa, an ancient port city previously designated under Arab jurisdiction. The city is famous for its association with biblical stories Jonah, Solomon, and Saint Peter. Tel Aviv is therefore sometimes referred to as Tel Aviv-Jaffa. You can learn more about the history of Tel Aviv here.
How to Spend Your Day, and What to Say
So, say you have one day and night to spend in Tel Aviv. In this section, I’ll be explaining a few things you can do to make the most of it, and how to effectively communicate in this foreign city. As a quick note, the primary spoken language in Tel Aviv is Hebrew, followed by Arabic. A large portion of the residents can speak English, so not to worry if you know little to nothing about the Hebrew language. However, there are a few Hebrew phrases I will discuss that can be helpful in certain situations. Locals will likely be appreciative of your efforts if you use them.
Carmel Market
A great way to start your day is to try your hand at haggling in Carmel Market, a must see outdoor market full of sights sounds, and smells. It is known in Hebrew as Shuk HaKarmel. This market is split in two sections, the first of which begining in Allenby street, where clothes, shoes, CDs/DVDs, and other electrical items can be purchased. The second section begins half way down after you pass the flower vendors while heading toward Yafo and the sea. A large variety of food produce, meats, cheeses, and exotic spices can be found in this section.
If you are visiting on a Friday morning, be ready for a noisy crowd. The Essential guide to Israel describes it as “basically a narrow alley with market vendors and their stalls on either side.” Walking through the whole market should take about an hour or two, depending on how often you stop. At some point in your passage through the market, be sure to purchase and enjoy an amazing kebab!
Israeli currency is the Shekel, worth approximately .25 U.S. Dollars. Most street vendors (and even chain retail stores) in Tel Aviv will accept U.S. currency, but may provide change in Shekels.
As for actually purchasing items, you will find the tradition of haggling (or negotiating prices lower than face value) is common. Beware, though street vendors accept U.S. Dollars, many have a reputation for ripping off unknowing tourists. It is important to keep your wits about you and be knowledgable of the exchange rate. There are a few Hebrew phrases you can learn and remember to make purchasing items a smoother experience.
The begining of a purchase can begin with “Kama zeh ole?” meaning “How much does this cost?”, or “Mah ha mohair?”, meaning “What is the price?” To begin bargaining, use the phrase “Lo, seliha, zeh yoter em die,” meaning “No, sorry, that’s too much.” For added affect, consider shaking your head and slowly moving away. The seller will likely call you back to offer a lower price. If you are not willing to run the chance of walking away from an item you want to purchase, use the phrase “Ta’aseh li ketzat ha’naha,” meaning “Would you give me a little discount?” This can be a profitable expression and will usually result in at least a small price drop. As an added tip, try not to appear to attach any emotional connection toward an item you wish to purchase. Doing so can lead a vendor to recognize how much you want the item, and he or she will be less likely to negotiate a lower price. To learn more about Carmel Market, click here.
Hilton Beach
Tel Aviv is well known for its easily accessible beaches all along its coast, spanning a distance slightly over 8 miles. I recommend checking out the Hilton Beach if you are a surfer, or anyone looking for a fun environment largely populated by Israeli residents as well as tourists from all over the world. The beach is a bit of a walk from Carmel market (20–30 minutes), though you can walk all along the beautiful coast to get there. If you prefer, you can catch a bus just outside Carmel Market. Bus fare will be around $6.00 for a 10 minute trip. As a quick heads up, security in Israel is tight. You can expect your bags to be searched when boarding a bus. I recommend having your bag in hand ready for this to occur. Be respectful of this, as security and safety is taken very seriously.
This beach is divided into three sections. One section is considered gay-friendly, one section is dog-friendly, and then there is my favorite, the surfer section. Because dog-friendly beaches are unusual in Tel Aviv, the dog friendly section is usually filled with Tel Aviv residents with their dogs. Moreover, though I could not find any rates online, from personal experience there are multiple surf shops throughout the area that offer four hour surf board rentals for about $25. The waves are big and the water is warm!
If surfing is not your thing, another very popular beach activity in Tel Aviv is Matkot, a paddle ball game involving two wooden paddles and a rubber ball. Matkot has been described by The Wall Street Journal as “(Israel’s) unofficial national sport.” The goal of the game is to hit the ball back and forth as many times as possible in a three minute window. Many locals will be happy to give you a shot if you ask a group of players if you can join. Beware, however, as this game is not taken lightly. Players get aggressive, hitting the ball with a great deal of force. Also from personal experience, a shot to the face in this scenario is very unpleasant. Now, if you don’t neccesarily want to be physically active, feel free to lay back and watch the waves. The scenery is beautiful, especially if you wait it out till sunset. Learn more about Hilton Beach here.
Night Life
Hopefully at this point you’ve either made it back to your hotel/hostel for a nap, or you took a nice snooze on the beach. Tel Aviv is known as a city that doesn’t sleep. Now its time to grab a bite to eat and hit the club scene.
I recommend heading to the Tel Aviv Seaport, located beach side and full of clubs, pubs, and restaurants door to door. It is about a 10 minute walk from the beach. If you are planning on heading straight there, there are showering facilities you can use to get ready along the beach. As a quick note, Israelis take water conservation seriously. Do not take excessively long showers, as to locals this demonstrates you are disrespectful and do not care about their environment.
Once you get to the Seaport, head to the Kitchen Market restaurant. It is on top of a popular tapas bar, and provides a fantastic view of the sea. Menu items consist of modern Israeli dishes served with aesthetic presentation. An example of a light dish includes a mushroom ragout with boiled egg and truffle oil or the colorful tomato, mozzarella, and labaneh (yogurt cheese) salad. Take your time, as night clubs do not generally get started until 12 or 1 am. Unlike many locations in the U.S., Tel Aviv clubs and bars remain open until 5 or 6 am.
A fun place to go with an energetic vibe would be the TLV club. It is a short walk from the Kitchen Market restaurant and also overlooks the sea. It is a very popular club attended by Tel Avivians in the 22–30 year age range. Dance party’s and live music from local Israeli bands and artists is a common occurrence.
As for surviving night life in Tel Aviv, here are a few pieces of advice regarding communication. Being in a new foreign environment, you will likely want to meet some locals.
For simple introductions, “Shalom,” means hello…as well as goodbye. Two words for the price of remembering one! “Shmi + your name,” means “My name is …”. “Eh’ch korim lach” means “What’s your name?” Finally, “Na’eem meh’od” means “pleased to meet you.” Don’t be suprised or disappointed if Israelis respond to you in English. American accents tend to stand out here, and many locals enjoy the opportunity to practice their English skills in such situations.
With regards to ordering drinks at the bar, tipping at least 12% is expected. If you do not tip, you may be met with some nasty looks and perhaps ingredients in your drink you wouldn’t have hoped for. Also, keep in mind that in Israel, a “chaser” is actually a shot, and not another drink to wash down a shot. If you ask for a shot and chaser without expecting this, you might run into some issues.
Lastly, the term L’chaim means “to life,” and is commonly expressed prior to taking a shot or having a drink. All in all, you should have lots of fun, and be ready to be very tired the next day. You can learn more about Tel Aviv night life here.
Final Thoughts
Though Israel has gained somewhat of a reputation as a dangerous area, I hope this article has shown Tel Aviv in a better light. I am greatful to have had the opportunity to visit, and felt very safe for my entire six week trip. Many college students and young adults take to the Caribbean for a fun vacation type trip, though I strongly recommend considering Tel Aviv. Unlike other places you might travel to, street markets, beaches, and night life are ingrained in Tel Aviv culture, and not simply made available as a tourist attraction.
Disclaimer: This article was written as part of an Intercultural Communication class at University of Nebraska — Lincoln under the direction of Jennifer Kienzle. Students chose different regions of the world to explore the unique history and cultural practices in those places. Please contact Jennifer Kienzle at jen@huskers.unl.edu if you have any questions or comments.
