By the roll — One woman’s love affair with fabrics is reviving a 90s Bahrain sartorial trend
Back in the days, before the mall-culture took over the island, most people wore tailor-made outfits. I vividly recall this one Christmas when I had tagged along with me mum to a certain tailor over in Manama souq. Weeks before, we had visited the many fabric shops dotting the lanes and by-lanes of the souq for days, scouring shelves of neatly stacked rolls of chiffon, cotton, chikan, silk, lace nylon, velvet, what have you. It had been a tedious process but worth it especially when I had tried the finished product, an ox-blood velvet skirt and waistcoat with a champagne gold lacy blouse. More than tedious, getting outfits tailored, was satisfying, at least for mum who seemed to enjoy, as did the many other customers, spending long hours, browsing and selecting fabric and haggling with glib-tongued salesmen.
In the 2000s, with the advent of malls in Bahrain, people realised that buying ready-to-wear clothes cost much less and was far less time consuming. As a result, tailoring and fabric shops witnessed a setback in their business. That being said, colourful drapes and beckoning mannequins in shop windows continued to draw in few locals and expats and the occasional tourist. One of them was Jill Boggiss who moved to Bahrain in 2006. “I have always loved clothes and am passionate about fashion,” she says, adding that as a child she wanted to wear her party dress everywhere and as a teenager she loved distinctive clothes. Jill’s taste for unique pieces lingered long after she started working and retail therapy in a shopping mall just wouldn’t satiate her. “I started designing my own wardrobe and people often asked me where I got my clothes from.” This inspired Jill to create a line of unique pieces and that’s how Sweet Jilly Designs was born.
In 2015, Jill, who is also part of the Saturday Biryani Party — a charity group distributing a Biryani meal to 500 construction workers every week — decided to bring fashion and food together. Sweet Jilly Designs’ first charity pop-up — Kaftans For A Cause — was launched and well-received, which spurred Jill on to organise a second season — Repassion Fashion — which was a grand success too. The proceeds from these pop-ups were used to fund the Saturday Biryani Party. That wasn’t the only good outcome. The tailor that Jill works with has immensely benefited as well. In addition to supplementing his existing business, the pop-ups have given him a chance to challenge and hone his craft. “I drive my tailor mad with my designs and blend of fabrics,” says Jill, adding that if you make time to get to know some of the tailors in Bahrain, you’ll discover that they are truly talented, knowledgeable and passionate. In fact, embroidering and sewing are integral part of Bahrain’s rich history. Women in the olden days engaged in the craft to supplement family income.
Jill’s pop-ups have inspired everyone on the organising team as well as visitors who buy her collection to wear more tailor-made outfits. Considering the hike in consumerism in the global retail industry, this is a welcome change. Says Jill, “People have become increasingly time-conscious and also enjoy the immediate gratification of buying something they see and like. I understand that but I think it is a shame! Prices in shops these days mean that people somewhere are being underpaid. I know that shops need turnover but the world doesn’t need landfill so buying fewer things, whenever possible, is ideal.” A self-confessed shopaholic, Jill says that she shops a lot less now. “If I see something I really love, I take a photo and just look at it,” she adds with a smile. “I recently bought a new piece from Carol Waller (one of her favourite designers since she was a teenager). It was expensive but not compared to me buying 6 to 7 pieces that would also take up wardrobe space. I used to be a volume buyer but now I only buy in bulk at charity shops.”
Apart from getting clothes tailored from scratch, Jill also ‘re-loves’ items she picks at charity shops and ‘gives them new life.’ An example of this is the Swing Shirt — a gent’s shirt altered to suit women — from her Repassion Fashion range. “I added a vent in the back for fun and femininity, and pockets so there is always somewhere for sunglasses, keys and other essentials,” she says, adding that the pockets were inspired by her late mum’s love of a patch pocket.
Jill Boggiss moved to the UK in January 2017. She visited Bahrain just to organise her second pop-up and hopes to continue doing so.
