The Magical Valley of Glendalough!
Carved out of the earth by a prehistoric glacier, the “Valley of the Two Lakes,” Glendalough, is Ireland at its best.
Home of a saint seeking desolate seclusion, monastic settlement for the monks preserving European civilization during the dark ages, refuge from the Vikings who sought to plunder these monasteries, and forest stronghold of Irish rebels; Glendalough has incredible natural beauty, history, culture, and is a magical place that I have a special connection with!
Prehistory, Ancient history, and Legend.
Some 420 million years ago, the Wicklow mountains were formed, and in due course, a glacier ambled through a particular part, gauging out what would become one of the most beautiful spots in Ireland. Gleann-Dá-Locha, or vale of the two lakes, is named after the pair of tranquil lakes within the valley walls. Human activity is noticeable during the neolithic period, as the first farmers began clearing the vast forests, and perhaps in the late 6th century, is said to have become home to a hermit and monk called St Kevin; at which point, it started becoming one of the most important ecclesiastical sites in Ireland.
St Kevin’s Monastery
St Kevin was said to have come to Glendalough to embark on a journey of hermitage and prayer in nature, going barefoot and resting at night in a tiny cave in a rock face 30 feet above the Upper Lake. The cave, known as “St Kevin’s Bed” is still accessible (with difficulty and the danger of a dunking in the lake!) today.
Like many spiritual leaders who practice what they preach, St Kevin attracted a devoted following over time, and his community grew and endured for hundreds of years. The ruins of the community are visible in the photo above, and perhaps most striking is the 1,000-year-old round tower breaking the skyline.
The Round Tower
Dublin, the capital city of Ireland, is also about 1,000 years old, and this is not a coincidence: Dublin was a Viking town, and Vikings enjoyed visiting monasteries enormously! While round towers may have served as belfries, it’s likely that another purpose was to allow the monks to grab anything of value that wasn’t tied down and run for their lives to the tower, pulling the ladder up after them.
Ireland has been referred to as Insula Sanctorum et Doctorum—island of saints and scholars—perhaps due to the contribution of Christian monks in preserving the knowledge and literature that much of Europe lost during the Dark Ages following the fall of the Western Roman Empire. However, the status and wealth of many monasteries made them prime targets for the Norsemen; the round tower in Glendalough may have saved many lives!
The Military Road Through the Mountains
Around 1800, a long military road was constructed by British military forces motivated by a desire to neutralize the activities of Irish rebels operating in the Wicklow mountains and concern about the possibility of an invasion by Napoleonic France. Today, the road offers a fantastic opportunity to drive through the mountains and enjoy the scenery.
The Mines and Van Diemen’s Land
For a further glimpse into the more recent history of Glendalough, visitors can stroll through the area called “Van Diemen’s Land” by the old miners. Mining took place here from the eighteenth century onwards, and the remains of the mining villages, including ore crushers are still visible.
Modern-Day Glendalough and Hillwalking in the Mountains!
As a teenager, I jumped on the St Kevin’s bus service to Glendalough from Dublin city many times to overnight on the hills of the valley.
The bus service will drop you off in the car park, and from there a walk of five minutes through the rear exit beside the river will bring you to the Monastic City, including the round tower and “St Kevin’s Kitchen,” which is the informal name for the site of the ruined chapel. However, before you leave the car park, you could also spend some time in the adjacent visitor center, taking in the exhibition and the outstanding audio-visual presentation.
If you choose to leave by the front exit to stroll through the village, there will be an opportunity to take tea, coffee, and other refreshments; and you can browse the shops for Celtic clothing and souvenirs. The Glendalough Hotel is a good place for lunch, as is the Wicklow Heather just down the road.
If, however, you are looking for adventure like I was as a teenager, you will go straight out of the front exit and cross the road. There, you will immediately be faced with a very impressive gradient: the slope of Camaderry. As hills go, 699 meters is not too high, but I defy you to attempt the slope, even without a backpack, without descending into huffs and puffs in a matter of seconds.
The first time I ascended I carried, in fact, a ridiculously enormous backpack as I intended to stay out on the hill overnight. After only a few minutes, the views of civilization disappeared behind me and I was left with the sound of my labored breathing and the spectacular views of nature.
The flora and fauna are outstanding, and I used the appearance of a herd of mountain goats as an excuse to catch my breath. That night, as I lay in my tent on the windswept mountain, I continually heard shrieks and thumps: I finally figured out that these noises were only the sounds of deer (and not a giant Irish elk!) on the hill, and they responded to my unfamiliar scent by warning cries and stamps on the ground.
Years later, on another visit to Glendalough, I was making a nocturnal descent of another hill across the valley when I heard what sounded like a dog bounding behind me. I was following a zigzag trail down, while my new companion was cutting the corners and crashing through the undergrowth.
At one point it darted out on the track about 50 feet to my front, and I was delighted to come face-to-face with a wild badger! It stared at me for a few seconds and then bounded off with a dismissive snort. We continued to descend the hill together, me using the track and the animal making its own track as it loudly foraged for food in the undergrowth.
Conclusion
So there you have it, a brief introduction to the magical valley of Glendalough. A visit will provide you with peace, health, history, and the best of both ancient and modern Irish culture.
You might see me in the Wicklow Heather having breakfast, after a night on the mountain with some friends from the natural world!
