Amazing Alfama
Every city is like a person, has its own beauty, own temper and charming scent. It either has a character or not, it appeals from the very first sight or leaves you half-hearted. It might be the most beautiful in the whole world but it doesn’t dwell within your heart.
I travelled a lot and admired every single place I have visited, every stone of old buildings and churches. But with Lisbon, and in particular with Alfama, its old neighbourhood, it was love at the first sight. (*Useful and tasty tips you’ll find at the end of article)
Needless to say, I suppose, that Alfama is the oldest neighbourhood in Europe (well ok, ok don’t throw stones at me, I know the oldest is El Pópulo in Cadiz, so let’s say Alfama is the second oldest one ) and one of the most beautiful as well. It is located in the very heart of Lisbon, no, no it is actually the HEART and the SOUL of Lisbon. It is his saudade (sadness) in every fado song and it is his felicidade (happiness) during Saint Antonio festival in June and every sunny day. Alfama is Lisbon’s history and pride and likewise strength because, by some miracle, when the whole city was destroyed by the earthquake in 1755, Alfama survived and remained unaffected with its strong rock-solid foundations.
So now when you are here please put aside your lonely planet guide or whatever you have there in your hands, while wondering Lisbon, because this part deserves only you, your pure attention and your own experiences here. There is nothing better than to start your journey by going up from downtown to the Sé de Lisboa (the oldest and one of the most beautiful churches in the city) and further just get lost in narrow streets, small passages, catching the sunlight on your face.
While the entire city is always on a rush, Alfama lives its own life and has its own rhythm. You will always hear sounds of fado, you will be passionate to eat something here even if you just have had a big meal because you cannot resist the smells of garlic, and fresh fried sardines, and the colour and scent of vinho verde (fresh green vine), and beauty of the small taverns, and cosiness of Portuguese restaurants with variety of petiscos (tapas) and main courses and there are many more “ands” so just do not resist any of them.
Then go up to the miradouro da Graça (adorable viewpoint on top of Alfama) with a wonderful view over Lisbon, famous Ponte 25 de Abril across the Tagus river and Castelo de São Jorge (Lisbon’s castle). Enjoy the fresh air and the smell of freedom in the Lisbon’s air and of course a bit of ice-cream or a cold drink during the hot day. Lots of people like to see the sunset here which is cool end of day, street musicians play soft Brazilian music, seagulls scream saying farewell to the day passing by. It is a very romantic place with unforgettable and charming atmosphere. Take your beloved one here for a date or to enjoy sunset together and that day will stay at your hearts for a long while. Frankly speaking I prefer to come here in the morning, because colours are more magical here with the morning sunlight. You see the beauty of every colourful Alfama’s house which is not hidden behind the sunset mist and it is much quieter during the morning hours. And then all day long I just wonder over Alfama, trying its tastes, smells and sounds. :)
At some point you start feeling that you are not in Lisbon any more but in a village within the wonderful city with its own traditions, culture and architecture. That exactly how Alfama makes you feel. Alfama makes you forget where you are and what date and time of the day it is. It is like a tile museum under the sky, you will not notice how it happened that you started touching every tile on the old houses, smiling and saying to yourself that world is such a beautiful place to be now and how great it is to enjoy wonderful Lisbon and discover its treasures. Then, after all, you end up talking to the Italian guy who has just opened focaccia place with amazing cheesecakes (honestly the best cheescake in the centre of Lisbon, name of the place at the end of article)and wonderful view to Pantheon (one-more-must-visit-spot in your Alfama’s list). And here it is this feeling — life is great, world is perfect place to be, travelling is wonderful, exploring Lisbon is captivating and magical experience and you would like to do that every day, all your life.
*You should not necessarily do all the things but at least some points, you would not regret for sure. So here is my must do list in Alfama:
1. Eat pasteis de Nata before going to Alfama
2. Visit Gothic cloister in Se de Lisboa
3. Dance to the music of street musicians in Miradouro das Portas do Sol
4. Have lunch at Restaurant Rio Coura (30 Rua de Augusto Rosa, Se, Lisboa 11000), close to Se and try their wonderful seafood rice (MUST)
5. Later drink vinho verde on the terrace café of miradouro da Graça and enjoy the view OR try beer with tremoços (lupin beans) in Portas do Sol restaurant (view is marvellous)
6. Go on top of Igreja de Sao Vicente de Fora, make the photos of its façade that follows the later renaissance style known as mannerism
7. Make photos of all old buildings and tiles on them
8. Try Ginjinha (sweet cherry liquor)
9. Visit Panteon, go on the rooftop, enjoy the view
10. Finish the day with a great sunset lights in Focaccia in Giro, wonderful and cosy Italian place.
Enjoy your stay in Lisbon.
